desertsubaru

Check out videos on youtube on how to check front suspension parts and how to check caliper. Caliper sticking is either the caliper itself or the rubber line that goes from the body to the caliper. The line is hard to diagnose because it is usually an internal collapse of the hose. Both caliper and the hose are pretty cheap on Rock auto. If you find its the caliper or hose you might as well replace the hoses, calipers, rotors and brake pads on both sides and do a fluid flush while your at it.

Probably the trans front seal which requires the trans to be removed to fix. IMO There are no chemicals that will fix it.

Welcome to the board. Might be your caliper intermittently locking up or sticking causing the brake pads to hit the rotor over heating it thus warping it. Also check struts, tie rod ends, and ball joints.

No work on filler tube.

2003 Forester. I went to put gas in it but the pump clicked off like it was full but I know it was about empty. If I hold the fill nozzle out so it is in the fill hole about and inch and run the pump on real slow it will take gas. Is this a vent problem?

Never mind

Thanks everyone . Just looked at the Imp at the JY. Started right up and drove it around the yard hard to make sure of no overheating and such. Car was hit in the rear so that's always a plus. Exhaust from y pipe back is the same as the Forester. Made a good deal with the owner for engine and y pipe for $400 plus my old engine from the forester. Going to pick it up next week. One more question, Do I have to change intakes or is it plug and play?

The first cat on the Forester is near the trans under the cv boot on right side.

What about the exhaust manifold, Is the 1999 a duel port like the 2003? I can get a 2.2 from an Impreza with 136k and six month warranty cheap.

What changed on the 2.2 in 2000 that wouldn't make it compatible with a 1999 2.2?

Someone gave me a 2003 forester x with a great body but the engine knocks and needs a HG. I have a 92 2.2 with only 90k on it sitting in my shed that came out of a wrecked legacy. Is it possible to put the 92 2.2 into the 2003 forester? I know it would be a lot less power but then at least I would have a good running car if it is possible to do the swap.

Didn't take the governor apart just took it out, cleaned and made sure pistons moved freely. This problem started after it sat for a week. Will recheck vacuum tomorrow for leaks.

Ok, I have tried 2 different modulators a brand new one and one off a known to be good parts car. It wont shift into 2 until 4k and 3rd at 5.5k trans fluid is at correct level. I did take the governor apart and every thing was cleaned with carb cleaner and tested to be sure of smooth movement and no apple core gears inside or out.

I did search this and found a few answers but wanted to confirm my suspicions. I just replaced my intake gaskets because they were leaking, the car set for a week while waiting for gaskets. The gasket job went well but after I took it for a test drive I couldn't get it to shift into third until I hit 5 and half k on the tac. I hooked the vacuum up to the port it has been on since I did the weber conversion and I replaced both rubber lines. I did take the governor out to check for damage and to be sure it wasn't hanging up and also cleaned it. I noticed a little white smoke on start up and also noticed trans fluid drip out of the modulator when I replaced the rubber line plugged into it so I'm suspecting the vacuum modulator went bad. Any thoughts and input is greatly appreciated.

Like the title says. http://www.ebay.com/itm/150945054986?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

What they said but it also me be a sign that you shouldn't drink and drive!

Better off just running an after market oil gage that uses a tube to the sending unit. Don't get a cheap one though as they usually leak.

Sorry to hear this. Very tragic indeed. This is one of the reasons I am for being trained in the use of firearms. Someone that was trained and armed could have turned this situation around.

Check to make sure the Radiator is free flowing.

Cheaper to get a complete gasket reseal kit to put new HGs on. As for resurfacing the heads you can do it your self unless they are really warped. If you get another engine you would still want to do all the outer gaskets and seals for the oil pump,Valve covers, Intake, ETC while you have the engine out.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126868&highlight=head+gaskets

Not to worry. I have done it a few times and my engine still runs fine. Here is a trick I came up with to hold the lifters in place during reinstalling. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=131557&highlight=solution

First do a tune up. Fuel filter,Plugs,wires,Distributer cap and rotor plus air cleaner element and pcv valve. Search this site on how to pull codes. Also may be the catalytic converter getting clogged.

Make sure to burp all the air out of the system. Park with the front end on a slight incline, remove cap and let the temp come up to operating temp. Push up and down on bumper to help air escape.

There was some good weber 32/36 on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-36-DGV-PROGRESSIVE-CARB-GENUINE-WEBER-CARBURETOR-WITH-MANUAL-CHOKE-22680-005-/120888282350?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2580ccee&vxp=mtr How ya been CD, Been a long time since we heard from Ya.

The rotor has a screw that holds it to the disty. If that fell out then the rotor will spin freely.