avk

The high-pressure cutoff occurs at about 400 psi. Was any AC work done before?

It's there, look harder.

Stainless bands work well too. The tool costs $10.

The inner boot can be replaced w/o removing the axle's outer end from the hub. The extra tools need tor replacinng the boot are snap-ring pliers and the band tightening tool. The boot above the converter seems to be suffering from heat. Had to replace that one, the rest are original.

So what's the word currently on the torque for the pulley bolt? Is it still 110 pound-feet?

The seal inserts into the bearing retainer (the round thing with ribs) from the inside. There's also an O-ring between the retainer and the case that should be replaced at the same time. The retainer is threaded into the case and has to be put back on in the same position. It's not difficult but proper documentation needs to be consulted before proceeding. I bought the seal and the ring when an inner axle boot broke, but didn't install because decided to replace the boot without removing the axle.

Actually, I may be mistaken. This compressor uses shims to adjust the clutch gap and the press fit should not be so tight, so the bolt could be enough to push the hub on the shaft. In the process, it's important to hold the clutch disk with something by the central part and not by the outer ring.

To get the hub back on, you need to find or fabricate an installer tool that would thread on the shaft and then push on the hub. It's like the remover but in reverse, a bit harder to improvise because you have to match the threads on the shaft. I once helped a friend replace the coil on a GM compressor and the installer had to have 9 mm thread. Couldn't find the tool anywhere although if we planned ahead, there are places it could have been ordered from. Ended up taking to the shop but it cost "only" $60.

When diagnosing this kind of noise, do not forget the little idler pulley on the belt tensioner. A clutch bearing is pressed into the pulley. Don't know if it's possible to buy the pulley by itself, or you have to get a complete clutch set which also includes the hub and the coil. I know for some other compressors these parts are available separately. AC parts suppliers may need to know the type of your compressor: it's Calsonic CR-14.

You say #1 is directly above the crank. If it sits on the oil pump body, it's the crank position sensor. If it's above that and threaded into the block under alternator, then it's oil pressure switch for the warning light.

The stub shafts are splined into differential side gears. The play is probably between the stub and the gear. Another possibility is loose diff. bearings but that would probably be giving you more serious trouble. FWIW, the factory manual says to use new C-clips when reinstalling the shafts, but I understand they were never removed.

Make sure it has the correct type of gear oil in it. My first car (a '84 Accord hatchback) had AT fluid in its 5-speed (the spec. in that case was regular engine oil) and it was grinding in reverse because of that.

One thing the hood does is protect the engine from rain. I believe it should only have a hole in it if absolutely necessary, such as for intercooler, and then it should be properly sealed all around.

There was ABS even after they did away with rear disk brakes in 1997, but only on OBS. The RS of course had disks.

Benebob, I believe what was posted is a site not connected to a particular mfr. where you indeed can look up parts inventory by number from participating dealers: partsvoice.com. They only ask for your ZIP code. You have to order from individual dealer and usually pay the list price.

Which year did you look up and in what catalog? The Subaru catalog shows different parts for Impreza Outback, except 1995-96 when there was no mechanical difference from the regular wagon.

If it's a model with 1.8 l and AWD, the tank is 13.2 gal: the bottom does not drop down on the left side of the driveshaft. Cruise control is very simple if you have the factory add-on kit (currently about $60 but probably hard to find) or a donor car. It's designed to be added as an accessory, you just need to have all of the pieces.

The fog switch bulbs have quarter-turn sockets, there's nothing tricky about it. You can use a generic 7219 bulb or get from a dealer a bulb assembled with the socket.

OE catalog, such as seen at subarugenuineparts.com and elesewhere, shows struts and springs that are specific to OBS.

OBS and Forester also have spacers (a lift kit) in suspension and drivetrain, like the big OB. Replacing struts alone might affect the longevity of driveshafts, although I heven't seen any data on that.

Swap the switch, this has been done before.

Steering wheel does not have to be removed to access the switches themselves. You only need to take it off for replacing the clockspring (roll connector).

The 100,000 people of Nasioc must have bought them all. Jamie: I'm still finishing my parts order, will send it in soon.

These kits should still be around. I believe Folger Subaru in NC is one dealer who has them, there was a link posted at one time.

All factory sheetmetal is zinc-plated, except maybe for the roof panel. If the replacement is not galvanized, I believe it does not meet the standard of "like-kind quality"