avk

If the title on eBay says "harmonic balancer" it should have that rubber ring. Aluminum ones are called just pulleys (underdrive and/or "racing").

There's a concentric rubber layer between the center "hub" and the "rim" driving the belts. It's designed to suppress torsional vibrations of the crank. If the pulley's old and dirty, the rubber's hard to see, but it's there.

That pulley from eBay will sure work on a '95. Probably the seller's application list only goes 10 years back. Note it's an aftermarket part, but could be better than my used one.

If the pulley's already loose on the shaft but the crank isn't chewed you may not even need to remove the fans. This usually happens after the bolt wasn't tightened to the correct torque when replacing the timing belt. I can send you an 11 y.o. pulley with 80000 miles with some cracks in the rubber and some rust, for the cost of shipping. The keyway is intact. I know it won't work if you need it fixed ASAP.

Sube dude: are 1995-96 oil pumps worse than 1990-94? They're probably the same part. I don't remember hearing about them having problems, other than loose screws on the back cover.

The "Phase 2" changes were outlined in Endwrench, http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/FuelEmissionsWin00.pdf The problem seems to be that the changeover occurred gradually during the model year. But apparently a number of other components changed along with the cam and crank gears, so the two kinds of engines shouldn't be so hard to tell apart. Pictures of the sprockets here: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Crankshaft.pdf I admit it's not quite clear if the two sets of changes are actually related.

My understanding was that the new system was found on the Legacy from 1996 and on the Impreza starting in 1995 mid-year (my '95 wagon doesn't have front sensors). But now I have looked at the collision parts catalog at subarugenuineparts and it does show front impact sensors for Legacy. If they should be there, hopefully yours still are. The discounted price is $256.19 each.

There are no sensors outside the control unit. Only the older system (identified by horn buttons on the steering wheel) had them.

I did a timing belt service at just over 80000 miles and here's some other things from my list: -replaced two O-rings between cylinder heads and camshaft supports. Same part number, both were leaking. Replaced O-rings between dipistick tube and oil pan (also a pair) because the tube had to come off to reach the cam support on the left. -replaced crankshaft pulley because rubber layer had cracks. Don't know if it was an overkill or how common those cracks are. Used new bolt and key for a good measure, they were about $5 together. -replaced all belt rollers and the tensioner because new ones had to be on hand anyway as I didn't know what I'd find. If I was doing it at 60000 miles like it was supposed to, I wouldn't have bought those parts. If your shop has parts in stock they would replace only what's necessary, in any case. -replaced timing cover gaskets but the old ones were usable even though the one on the bottom center was slightly distorted because of oil leak from the seals. That gasket is likely the only one that ever needs to be replaced. -Since my choice was to remove the radiator, new hoses and thermostat were put on, also the radiator cap, and the exposed AC condenser was cleaned. -Don't forget the heater bypass hose at water pump.

There's a TSB on that I believe and replacement parts are supplied as a kit but there's no recall so the repair is not free.

As OE parts, the two water pumps are specified for different engines. See here: http://endwrench.com/oepropdf/enginecomponents.pdfThere was a thread about it not long ago. Apparently, the stamped impeller provides more flow and was an attempt to improve cooling on 2.5l engines.

Pumps with both cast and stamped impellers are available, under different numbers. In the aftermarket they're considered interchangeable.

Something might be wrong with the shift lock solenoid circuit. There should be a slot where you can insert a screwdriver to manually unlock the lever, although I can't tell exactly where on 1st gen. Legacy. It should be in the owner's manual.

My wagon is a 1995 model and doesn't have guides for headrests in the rear. That year, Impreza was severely "decontented". Quite possible that '93 and '94 had rear headrests, especially on LS.

Argh, it's not in the glass!

You can probably just get a replacement glass with turn signal and swap it in. Still will cost you something. It's not available in the aftermarket.

To reach the connector by hand, I also had to move the intake duct and unbolt the bracket that holds engine and transmission narnesses to the bellhousing, to push those out of the way. OE sensor comes with a washer.

I can send you the AT section from FSM (PM me) or maybe someone wants to host it: my attachments are at the size limit. Can't find the calibration part as yet but I'll keep looking.

That condition is only specified by MasterCard, but they don't really have means to verify the user. So in practice, it's left up to the dealer. When I was sending the bucks to subarugenuineparts, they did require the name to match.

According to '95 FSM, the procedure involves selecting a correct thickness for the gasket under the solenoid, which affects calibration. There are several sizes with different part numbers. Also, there were TSBs with updates about this repair.

Credit card agreement says the coupons cannot be transferred. Mail-order places do require that the name matches, to prevent fraud. Don't know how strictly it is with over-the-counter purchases. I guess the answer is, some dealers might accept the bucks issued to a third party, but it shouldn't be taken for granted.

Looking up "Subaru idler" on eBay always brings up some t-belt rollers for EJ engines.

Alarm units in those years were supplied by CodeAlarm. On the circuit board under the cover, there should be several switches that change settings. With those, you can't competely disable the starter interrupt but can change it to manual arming.

John, I ran into the same thing when trying to remove the pulley and posted aboout it a few weeks ago. I did use a 3-jaw puller to take it off. As to the marks, it takes hundreds of crank revolutions to line them up again. The exact figure is number of teeth on t-belt, times 2 (for 2.2 l, it's 422).

The bottom plugs just close up openings that were needed for machining oil passages in the casting. It seems unlikely for them to be leaking. Any oil in that area would probably come from higher up.