avk

I'm sure you know better. I thought it had something to do with the mfg. process because the lip does not come in contact with anything.

The number is correct and yes they're crooks because even the list price is around $2. The lip is just the mold line, they had to put it somewhere.

The "O" refers to the cross-section. There are also square rings, D-rings and other kinds. Recently I came across a quad ring, whose cross-section is like a square with concave sides.

I believe a 1996 engine needs the older part number which is indeed the same as for the rings sealing oil passages between the block halves.

Well, if the idea was to save fuel then rear diff. needs to be looked at as well. But all this is strictly hypothetical. As for the trans, you can remove the extension housing, and the transfer gear on the trans. side from the output shaft, then install a cover from a FWD version. Did I say it's hypothetical?

This whole topic probably makes sense only as a mental exercise, but technically, there should be a way to eliminate AWD. The rear diff. can stay in place and only the axles removed, except that outer CV joints should be taken apart and their housings with splined ends and nuts kept in place, because that's what holds the bearings together. Same can be done with inner joints to keep the diff sealed, or one can cover the axle bores with homemade sheetmetal covers sandwiched under the bearing retainer flanges. The driveshaft woud have to be disconnected and removed, or held securely out of the way. The control unit would have to be swapped as already noted.

Don't forget cruise control.

If you mean camshaft rotating independently of crankshaft, on this engine you know it won't harm anything. The support does not make any difference here, nor will the camshaft pop out when that piece is removed.

The two heads are different on EGR-equipped engines, meaning 1.8l and 1995+ 2.2 used with AT. But camshaft bores are still the same on both sides. The ring part number is 806946030.

That's what it is, the big thin O-ring between the head and the camshaft support. Like with shaft seals, the leaking oil is not under pressure. Same O-ring is found under the cam support at the other end on the right side. Both of mine used to leak. It's probably a good idea to replace the one on the left with each t-belt replacement. The one on the right can be done as needed. Be careful when sliding the cam support off the camshaft and back on, so as not to scratch the journal.

The oil pump uses an O-ring on the output side and it's best to buy it from a dealer. The part number is different for newer engines even though the pump is the same. Make sure you have a manual on hand or at least go through past threads about timing belts and seals. I also have a '95 model with low mileage and changed the t-belt for the first time this past summer. One of the hardest things was that the crank pulley rusted to the crank, even though the bolt came out easily.

The oil is coming through two angled drains provided at the bottom of the center timing cover. For a 1995 engine, the most likely cause is hardened cam and crank seals, but it's also recommended to remove and reseal the oil pump, making sure the screws on its back cover are tight. The timing belt is due anyway, if it hasn't been replaced, although the belt itself is most likely in a good shape. All of this is has been covered in multiple threads. On the second thought, maybe the engine is weeping because a Fram filter was put on.

5x100 bolt pattern is also used on a vast number of Chrysler, Toyota, and VW models, but the same questions remain.

Some aftermarket parts are better than some OE parts, but one has to be sure in each individual case. Speaking of thermostats, I'd say Subaru OE looks much more substantial than Stant.

Timewise, a proper brake replacement job should consist mostly of cleaning and lubricating the parts. This might be a problem with professional shops as brakes are one of their money-makers.

The 4EAT transmission has also been used by Nissan and Mazda, with whom it was jointly developed. But the transfer clutch probably wasn't shared.

Does it have a flat 7-pin plug?

I saw a similar-looking sludge in a friends' 3.1 GM engine, known for a problem with intake manifold gaskets that leak both oil and coolant. They had it fixed in a shop, and no more sludge. On this engine, it might be the head gasket but let's hope for something else.

I got vacuum hoses and wiring bundles out of the way so I could reach the tab.

My van shows gas mileage on the overhead display and the best occurs around 45-50 mph. And that with a tall gear ratio, 0.69 for overdrive x 3.609 for final drive. The mileage goes into single digits when accelerating from a stop. The bottom line is that the optimal speed is not practical for highway cruising and in city driving, it doesn't matter. Diesels are a different story.

It might be more fair to compare the models from similar generations, and we know that 2d gen. Legacy didn't have some things that 1st gen. did, down to the lighted mirror switch.

In '96, 5-speed Outback had a 2.2l engine and the gear ratio could have been different from the rest, but I don't know.

There's probably a relay, with a coil powered through the ignition switch. Take it apart and install a jumper. Chrysler actually sells such "dummy" relay as a factory part, for the same purpose.

Factory replacement bulbs come assembled with socket and cover, so the comparison is not completely fair. They can be mail-ordered for 25% less than list price, plus shipping. But it's a valid question which generic type the larger bulbs belong to. The small one is 7219, at least by size. Sylvania has on its site dimensional drawings for all the bulbs, maybe the answer can be found there.

There's a TSB for sticking ABS pump motor relay, it could be that.