avk

Early 1st gen. Legacies were made with two diferent sets of engine controls, either Hitachi or JECS. Hitachi was found with MT and JECS with AT. Perhaps back then one kind was made in Japan and the other in US? Other components that are different are MAF sensor and IAC valve, possibly others.

I'm not sure ThreeBond 1215 is anaerobic, because some of its applications do not normally call for anaerobic sealant. I believe we are referring to the same TSB that lists sealants with applications, and their alternatives. Also see http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1200list.html.

What does the ring interfere with if not removed?

Ultra Grey works fine, just cut the nozzle at the smallest opening, 1/16". If any chunks split off (unlikely considering how the bead forms on the outside), they will go straight into the filter. I wonder why the factory recommends Ultra Grey and not anaerobic sealant. Perhaps they don't trust service technicians to clean the surfaces well enough.

The two sensors on my 1995 Impreza are Bosch. Perhaps in those days some other brands did not yet exist.

By the same token, with a remanufactured axle, you don't know what kind of abuse the core might have been through. It is true that cleaning out the old grease is a dirty job and special tool is needed to tighten the band. But shop towels, brake cleaner, and the band tool cost you only around $20.

No, it took me long enough to replace the timing belt as it was! But this came up a few times before and in a word, the number of turns is twice the number of teeth on the belt. That number (211 for original SOHC EJ) can be found in aftermarket parts catalogs, they give it for identification along with length and width of the belt.

This topic now comes up almost as often as the parking lights that won't shut off. For the engine in question, it takes 422 revolutions of the crank for the marks to line up again.

Remember that inner boots can be repalced without removing the axle from the wheel hub.

Also inspect the wire harness where it runs from the pillar to the door. On a 1995 Impreza, I found that the rubber sleeves began to crack and tear, although the wires weren't chafed yet. I just wrapped the sleeves with insulation tape.

On my 1995 2.2l Impreza with "50 states" emission compliance, the original belt had a non-California part number, from which I conclude that for some time now, California and non-California belts have been exactly the same, even though the part numbers remained different. The maintenance schedule does show a longer replacement interval for California.

Thanks to Scoobymods: http://www.geocities.com/svxdc/Legacy-pinout.htm

Update because I've had exact same problem. The part in question is no. 14 in the diagram, and the dealer had it in stock. Must be somewhat common. To work on the control unit, you need to disconnect the cables at the heater box, which gives you wiggling room to unplug the wiring, and then you can take it out and fix it "on the bench".

When I was removing wiper arms from a 1995 wagon to repaint them, a $3 battery terminal puller from Autozone worked well. Had to file down the claws to get it under the rear arm. Then (since you want stories) a neighbor dropped a gold ring through the cowl covering on their Chevy and asked me for help. The wiper arms had to come off, or so I thought. The cheap tool just wouldn't do it on that one, so I bought a proper tool, Lisle 54150, and it worked great. Each of the arms came off with a loud pop, but then it turned out the ring had fallen into a drain hole. It was found in the fender, at the bottom behind the plastic liner.

So you're looking at a '01 Outback Ltd. but don't want to pay for Carfax? Kidding. I'd help you if I had an active account.

Service couplers should be available in parts stores, although big chains are less likely to have them in stock. R134A couplers come with 14mm thread so you will also need adapters to connect them to non-automotive hoses. I believe the adapter would be the same as R134 to R12, but not sure. If you can wait, eBay is a good source for those parts. Pressures can be very different depending on ambient temperature and humidity but roughly, the low side should be in 20-35 psi range and the high side 150-250. The system uses an expansion valve, your dad should know how to find the optimal charge for any type.

I did check the price when gathering parts before timing belt replacement. Thought about replacing those hoses when the radiator was out, but the cost put me off, even though I was paying with SubaruBucks. It was something like $35 for the longer pair in the front and $18 for the shorter pair in the back.

The rails will bolt on but you'll have to remove the headliner. There are some write-ups on how to do it.

OE molded hoses cost a ridiculous amount, at least for Impreza.

The part number for the kit for 1997 w. MT is H7010FA233. Found it on some old "blowout sale" list. Looks like the cruise was never installed at the factory and so there are no parts for it listed in the replacement catalog. It was sold as an accessory. The controller could still be ordered by p/n if you know it, but it will cost something like $200.

One difference between 1997 and 1998 Impreza models is the change from cable-driven speedometer to electronic. The speed sensor signal may be different between the two. But then a 1995 controller would have been more likely to work, and it didn't. Then again, there were three control units in 1995: for 1.8 MT, 1.8 AT and 2.2 AT/MT (same part). If yours is from 1.8, there might be enough difference too. You may still need a 1998 wiring diagram. A part number for the correct control unit can be found, but it's probably not worth it to buy a new one.

You might want to see the wiring diagrams, with pin-outs, for both your car and the donor vehicle. I have one for 1995, but you also need 1997. Is the vacuum hose connected to the manifold?

I believe roller rockers will swap because part numbers for some (unassembled) heads are the same between "roller" and "non-roller" years. Don't know if lash adjusters have to be swapped as well.

The p/n for this hose is 807615081. It's a bypass hose, but don't know what it's called in the catalog.

By model year, the change to solid lifters occurred in 1997. 1995-96 had hydraulic lifters and rollers, while ealrier engines didn't have rollers. But "Phase II" designation is usually reserved for the design that came out in 1999-2000 (depending on vehicle model), with speed-density air metering and other changes.