avk

Did you install the vacuum pump? It's not on your list.

I'd say if there's still a good amount of grease inside the joint housing -- the round metal part, not the boot -- then it can be safely re-packed.

Sorry I don't know the specification even for my own engine but if there's a short or an open, you'll see right away. If in doubt, maybe you can compare the reading with those for other injectors. Meanwhile, I'll see if FSM has that figure. Add: it gives a range of 5 to 20 Ohm.

Check it with an ohmmeter first.

Inserting the pin punch into a socket on an extension bar works both from above and from below. For example, on Imprezas with cruise control, and of course all turbo models, both sides would be easier to reach from the bottom. It helps to choose a socket that will hold the punch snugly. A 3/16" punch that most people end up with usually has a 5/16" hexagon. By the way, there's a proper tool they sell on eBay, a very long 6 mm punch. I'll get one some day.

Where I live, both Lowe's and Ace indeed have assortments of circlips in their hardware drawers. Be sure to install it in the same position, it sets the adjustment of the cable.

This is a brief account I posted in a similar thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=356687&postcount=10 These instructions can also be found in Haynes and elsewhere. If you have any questions, please let me know.

Just a reminder that an inner joint, the subject of this thread, can be re-packed, and boot replaced, w/o touching the hub end of the axle.

Just in case, take a quick look at the flexible joint between the 2d converter and the exhaust pipe. That's what I spent a good part of the past weekend to fix. It wasn't rattling though.

I guess it goes between the seal and the shaft, where's there no reinforcement. Same as their previous tool, or indeed the screwdriver.

I'm one of those who had this problem, but didn't take pictures. I posted a thread about this. In a few words, I was able to take the pulley off with a 3-jaw puller, actually assembled from three different ones, one Craftsman and two, large and small, lended by PepBoys. The arbor screw and hub were from Craftsman, others were too long to clear the AC condenser. The jaws were from the smaller PepBoys unit, whose claws were of the right shape, and the connecting links were from the larger one, the only ones with enough reach. Plus I had to hold the jaws on the pulley with a big screw-type hose clamp, and to place a suitable object into the hollow end of the crank for the forcing screw to sit against. Which tags (tabs?) did you break? The pulley is balanced by drilling holes. Hopefully you didn't break the timing sprocket.

I have one of those "Parts Quick Reference Guide" books, mine's a 1985-2001 edition (p/n MSA6P0104), and it gives the following numbers for one-piece converter assembly: 44139FA000 for "7/98-6/99 49 state" (which seems to mean mostly 1999 model year); and 44139FA010 for "7/98-6/99 California" and "7/99-", meaning 1999 California models and all 2000-01 models. Prices are the same. If I decide to get one, I'll try the first number because it's more likely to have the same sensor locations as the old type. The front Y-pipe assembly didn't change, the only difference being between one and two exhaust ports, but that change occurred in 1996, before they changed the converters. Besides, 2.5l engines remained two-port. So it's easy to tell that the newer converters will fit on the forward end.

Thanks a lot, this is a huge help and people should be aware of this interchange. I don't mind spending some money on it, but the separate-style converters cost someting like $520+ for the front and $350+ for the rear. For comparison, the newer style one-piece assembly is about $250, which is even competitive with aftermarket. Still hope I won't need the cat. I have some part numbers if anyone's interested.

So I got a good ol' P0420 "Cat. converter efficiency below threshold" code on a 1995 Impreza. I have read some of the previous threads about this code, and will try to find what the problem is. Meanwhile, in case I will need a new converter (front, rear, perhaps both), I have a question about parts interchange between different years. The issue is cost. For 1995-1998 models, front and rear converters are separate parts, and cost an unspeakable fortune even at a discount. On the other hand, on later models the two converters are a single welded assembly and, for some reason, it costs less than either one of the earlier separate converters. The question is, can the later one-piece assembly be substituted for the two earler converters? I noticed that some aftermarket suppliers have the single assembly listed in their catalogs for 1995-2001. At the same time they, like Subaru, list two different intermediate pipes (but the same mufler). Hence my question: will a newer two-cat assembly bolt on to an older intermediate pipe w/o adjusting the length and/or mounting hardware?

Wonder if NAPA has a lifetime warranty? Maybe it's only only the big chains who offer it. But you have a date code and a serial number.

What does it say: NAPA POWER? MAFIA POWER? My eyes, my eyes ...

I believe the trick is to push the tip away from the shaft when inserting it under the lip. But maybe it's easier said then done. On the right side, I did leave a mark on the camshaft but it was near the sprocket end. It may not be the easiest tool to use, for sure. Bought it because I thought it would be better than a screwdriver, and an "ice pick" type wouldn't fit.To gain more room for maneuver, I had to remove rear timing cover. The current Lisle puller might be an improvement of that design.

Perhaps whoever installed that seal had put some sealant on the outer side? There were some old threads about this. What works well is to pry on the seal lip with a tip of a screwdriver leveraged against the cylinder head. A piece of wood can be placed between the screwdriver and the head to obtain the best working position. Then there's a Craftsman seal puller tool, which can be viewed as an ultimate adaptation of a screwdriver for the purpose of seal removal.

True that a carburated engine would be easier to convert properly. With a fuel-injection type intake manifold, you don't want those long runners to be all filled up with explosive mixture. I understand that port-injection conversions also exist, but they are quite costly.

The correct punch size is 6mm, the pros should have had it in their set. The strut-to-knuckle nuts are one-time use, but I guess they know better. Same for tightening those nuts with an air wrench. I'm just saying.

One other thing is that to read the atmospheric pressure, the sensor is also plumbed into the evaporative system, so there might be something wrong in that part. Nor likely, but that's all I can come up with for now.

L models were not pre-wired for fog lights.

I know a shop near Trenton/Hamilton (if they're still there), but that may be too far south for you. Also had good luck with Somerset Subaru dealership the few times I visited them. With tires, 195/65/15 should fit, as 195/60/15 was standard on Impreza, and suspension parts are the same. The difference is only in overall radius and it's 5% of 195 mm, that is less under 10 mm.

Hopefully such things like paint will improve now that they build Toyotas at the Indiana plant.

This is interesting, because supposedly they started using the new type from 1998. Perhaps it was a mix-and-match year?