avk

The holes are in the bracket bolted to the engine block. What I am saying is that an old style bracket can be installed in place of the new one.

At worst, you need a sending unit and the pump/strainer kit, but not the whole assembly. The sender is something like $60 from discount dealers, and you can get a Walbro pump from a number sources, such as http://www.fuelpumps.com/19911994-subaru-legacy-fuel-pump-4-cyl-22l-turbo-p-3266.html Don't forget the gasket.

I understand that at least on "Phase 1" engines you can replace a new-style adjuster with an old-style, if you also change the mounting bracket.

With OE parts, the newer double-row idler supercedes the other one which has a bearing. That is, both smooth idlers are now the same part. Most aftermarkets kits still contain two different idlers, or sometimes two of the older type.

Sorry, I realized you said "booster seats", so anchoring them won't work unless they have their own restraints.

Not sure you can get a shoulder belt, but there should be mounting holes somewhere, probably on the rear shelf, for child seat tie-down bolts, and the bolts should be available from Subaru.

FSM does tell to push the tensioner to the left, by prying with a screwdriver against the bracket, before final tightening.

That list surprises me more by the absence of any Volvos. Thanks Ford!

Just compress the tensioner in a 6" C-clamp. Won't be able to go too fast. Whichever way you do it, takes far less time than taking apart half the car on VW/Audi to access the belt.

So you replaced both solenoids as well as the sensor. Logically, only two possibilities are left, a blocked path between the head and the intake, or a bad ECU. My 1995 FSM makes it sound like a shorted-out solenoid may damage the ECU.

There are two solenoids, to be exact. The other one is the switching solenoid next to the sensor. Like the sensor itself, it may only affect the feedback portion of the system. Then there's this little filter spliced into the hose between the intake and the switching solenoid. I believe someone mentioned it a long time ago. Then there can be clogged EGR passages.

EGR also has an actuating solenoid, although there should be a separate code if it goes bad. Don't think removing the system will get rid of the code.

Maybe not, because from 1996 it was single port again. Maybe the difference was due mostly to roller rockers, if they allowed to increase valve lift, but I don't know. The power increase for 1995 was 5 hp, from 130 to 135. There was a furher 7 hp gain in 1997.

There may be enough pressure not to trip the cut-out switch, but the charge can be still low. Low charge is the simplest thing to assume, esp. if the liquid line is not getting hot to the touch.

Actually, the cams are the same if you count only what's inside the heads, but, like the heads themselves, the ends of the two camshafts are flipped 180 degrees relative to each other. So one cam has its thrust support on the front side and the other one on the back.

There is some sort of cap at the rear on the left cylinder head but it only plugs a hole that was used for machining the cam bore at the factory. I believe it's threaded in, with some sealant, and not a maintenance item. The cam support on the right-side head should be there on any pre-1997 (cam in head) 2.2 engine, it's just may be hard to see. It uses the same O-ring as the left side at the front and is easy to access.

It's probably better to replace the shaft seal and the O-ring as a set, once the retainer is out. I bought both when I had to replace an inner axle boot, to replace at the same time, but then decided to leave good enough alone. To turn the retainer, maybe you can find a suitable spanner wrench.

An alternator on a '95 Legacy might be subject to a recall, if it's a Hitachi unit.

Did you remove the lower trim panel? TCM is right behind it, bolted to the instrument panel frame. To help with airbag-o-fobia, disconnect the battery.

Idler pulleys and timing kits, with or w/o water pump, are cheap on eBay.

Perhaps one day, the previous owner decided to top off the refrigerant and, since only R134A is available for doing it yourself, just screwed on a low-side fitting and proceeded happily to fill it up from a can. If there's no known repair history and you want a working AC, the system should be evacuated, flushed, and charged (after fixing the leaks) with refrigerant and oil. The receiver-drier will have to be replaced. OTOH, just filling it up with R134A might not make it any worse right now, so you could try that. In that case, use one can that has added dye, and also add some ester oil to keep the compressor from seizing.

Aren't the two of you looking for different types of those switches, one for 1997 and the other for 2000? Anyway, just buy new ones and be done with it. The wiper switch for '97 would be around $75 at a discount price, before shipping, the one for '00 even less.

Thought the post from yesterday didn't go through.

I bought the same set of wires, for a 1995 2.2l, a year ago, for about the same price as mentioned above, from subarugenuineparts. These are exact same wires as were on the car, marked "Packard Electric", with stainless connectors and boots on the coil side sealed with silicone. These wires are sold individually, although in this case all four are the same. They also have boxed wire sets with part numbers starting with "SOA" (the set in question would be SOA430Q115 if memory serves). Those are not at all identical to the wires installed at the factory, although I'm sure they would work.

Technically, AGM and gel cell are two different types of non-spillable batteries, the former being more common.