avk

Those brackets are actually glued to the glass, and the small screws holding them to the gate are for extra safety. This type of spoiler was installed at the factory in Japan.

OK, Subaru-branded dealer add-on kits were identical to factory parts. They were available as an accessory under their own part numbers. Scott: The set-up used on Forester/Impreza is a basic most common type of vacuum cruise control.

To replace the inner boot, the axle doesn't have to come out of the hub. It's also in the archives.

That's the standard setup for Forester and Impreza. Legacy models had a vacuum pump, maybe because there used to be a turbo engine in the line-up. A dealer-added cruise control kit would be identical to factory equipment.

Possibly a different weight distribution, or perhaps different position of strut mounting points, heightwise, front vs. rear? Floor pans should be the same though.

Use a piece of tape across the face of the (centered) clockspring to keep it from turning. Remove right before re-installing the steering wheel.

No hands-on experience here but you need roller rockers, used only in 1995 and 1996. That is, if you actually need complete assemblies.

The bellhousing is open on the bottom where it hangs below the engine and you can see the drive plate. They eliminated the cover sometime in early 1990s. Is there any chance you can get the extension bar out that way, or is it too thick to make its way through?

Sorry I am late getting back to you. As people said, the ribbon cable inside might have disconnected. The idea of centering the clockspring, which Subaru calls "roll connector", is to make sure the wound ribbon has same amount of slack for turning left as it has for turning right. From the directions on the label, it looks like the clockspring makes 5.3 turns from stop to stop, which is greater than the number for the steering wheel. So if it is centered, it should not be able to reach those internal stops. For your model, if you want to buy a new part, you probably have to buy a complete combination switch. But a used one shouldn't be hard to find.

The lower spoiler became available on OBS in 1999 but it's not clear to me if it was standard or optional.

And the picture shows obsolete idler rollers (the smooth ones) with single-row bearings. But doesn't matter if you change them along with the timing belt.

I believe the sheetmetal, hinges and lock are all the same. You may have to transfer the wiring harness because there was a change to intermittent wiper in 1997. That same year they eliminated a separate bottle in the back for the rear washer, but the hose connection will be on the left side in any case.

It does have a clockspring, although for some strange reason it's not available as a separate part. But make sure everything is plugged back together. The yellow label tells how to center the clockspring if necessary. There's a procedure to read airbag codes by grounding a pin on the diagnostic connector, similarly to ABS and AT, but I don't have it handy right now.

The recycling establishment probably goes by their interchange catalog and indeed if one model has a spoiler, it would come up with a different number. Also, on 1st gen. Impreza the top spoiler is actually mounted to the glass. For earlier years, I believe through 1996, it was bolted to the brackets which were glued to the glass and later on, it was just double-sided sticky tape. It's more likely that they have the later type, in which case it's easy to buy the spoiler separately.

They made a very relevant demonstration:

There is a relay, but it operates all of the marker lights as well as the instrument backlight bulbs.

Honeywell also makes Fram but this isn't new.

When compressor isn't running, there's no flow through the lines. When it is running, some bubbles should be normal but a froth-like mixture might mean it's low on charge. You can't tell much without using gauges.

Since Impreza/Forester cruise control used engine vacuum and not a vacuum pump, the pin-out of the Legacy control unit may not match that of the harness plug. Maybe you could still find a NOS factory add-on kit for your model.

Peter: I also found that the green grease wasn't working.

The factory-installed wires are not manufactured by FHI but they have some OE-specified features that boxed versions do not have. Add: I just realized I've been talking with the OP. NGK should be fine if you ask me.

The idea is that if someone, for whatever reason, wants OE wires, then a boxed set won't do. If one wants something that meets OE standards, then their options are much wider.

There are two part numbers for the oil pump O-ring, changing in 1998 if memory serves. I assumed they changed the diameter of the bore it sits in, because what else can be different.

You can only get OEM if you order them one by one using factory part numbers. Boxed sets that have numbers starting with "SOA" are re-labeled aftermarket parts.

The cost of the pulley might be an issue here. There's an aftermarket version (Dorman) for $50-something.