avk

For calipers that float on rubber sleeves (boots) over the pins: I believe one reason they seize is that the bores for the sleeves in the caliper body rust on the inside, squeezing the boot inwards against the pin. The countermeasure is to remove the boot from the hole (not always done, because there's no movement at that interface), remove the rust, and apply grease. That is, the boot needs to be greased both inside and outside, even though the sliding happens only on the inside. One suitable tool is Dremel with a drum attachment, which is what pamike likely refers to. Machining tolerances and choice of materials may also play a role. The very simple Kelsey-Hayes calipers on my minivan (sliding on two identical boots) passed the "move by hand" test every time I checked.

The word on the street is that 5MT stub shafts do not come out without dis-assembly, because they are held with snap rings that require pliers to remove.

Do not overlook Amazon. Right now, they show a TYC unit for 76.25 + 0. shipping, and an off-brand for $55.

...

Just take a bus.

The smooth idlers in the Mizumo kit seem to have a single-row bearing. Both OE replacement idlers are currently superseded to double-row (the top one always was). But if they're changed every time along with the belt, as they should, that shouldn't be a concern.

They were late to change the design for some reason. Probably because all models basically had the same suspension and drivetrain, and they were leaving good enough alone.

Replacing the crank seal is actually more risk-proof than the cam seals, because the crank seal simply bottoms out in the bore. As to removing the oil pump, it's mostly an independent operation, because the seal is easier to install with the pump already in place.

Can I ask, just out of curiosity, why replace camshaft seals but not the crankshaft seal, if the crankshaft seal wears twice as fast?

With auto transmissions I believe they did have EGR on 1995 and 1996 US models, when OBDII was introduced. Not sure after that.

Oh please.

It's also easy to bet someone else's money that things won't break.

Sway bar links and/or bushings would be my guess, but I only had that happen on my minivan, which is well known for this type of problem.

I don't think the Subaru radio is specifically designed to work only with that type of dimmer circuit. It should work in either vehicle, just like an aftermarket unit would. The weatherband unit can even operate a power antenna, even though it was never available with one from the factory.

I replaced valve cover gaskets and grommets on a '95 2.2 l engine with 114,800 miles, and found just one of the rocker bolts to be a little loose. I checked them all with a wrench set at 100 inch*lb (8.33 ft*lb), and the rear, upper bolt on the right-hand side did turn a small amount. By the way, the Fel-Pro set I was using came with blue gaskets (their standard color for "PermaDry" line), and marked "Made in Japan". So now the car has blue JDM valve cover gaskets.

That's very true.

Today's news is, aferbang sells the car after transmission bangs into 1st!

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com They also sell on eBay and Amazon.

A Legacy Outback? No. Purty color though.

I had the car since when the old number was still new.

A while ago, there was a house explosion in NJ caused by a newer environmentally safe refrigerator operating on isobutane. Maybe it's best to use flammable refrigerants only in unattended industrial equipment, something they were invented for.

The part number for the older bolt is 800213030, and the newer one is 12369AA011. I'd be wary about tightening an older bolt to 130 lb*ft, especially when re-using (although some of the much more experienced folks did so with no ill effects). Might be a good idea to get a new bolt. It's no less important than all the other numerous parts being replaced, and costs only $5 or so. Get a new Woodruff key, too.

The approved ATFs are specified right there in the owner's manual, sec. 11-16. It's type HP (which is Fuji's own specification) or type J (more general Japanese standard). The text below says "Using any non-specified type <...> could result in damage inside the transmission".

But is the fluid correct for 5EAT?

Just a comment on the trade-in offer. To me (in NJ) it sounds like a good deal, comparable to what you would receive from a private party. KBB is nonsense. But it sounds like they were hugely overpricing the Forester. I recently bought a '06 Tribeca for the wife, after giving the Impreza to the son (time flies like a banana).