avk

There are roller rockers on 1995 engines as well.

I understand you need fluid that meets "JASO 1A" standard. A cursory search shows that "multi-vehicle" ATFs sold under various brands, although not designated as semi-synthetic, fall into that category. I don't know how old this standard is, but suspect that if it had been applied earlier, there would have been fewer occurrences of torque bind.

An OE remanufactured unit for my friend's 2000 Outback was around $200. It wasn't the problem though. I posted a thread similar to yours, about a P1133 code that wouldn't go away. We unwrapped the harness and began tracing individual wires, but in the process the problem did go away, apparently after unplugging and plugging back some connectors.

At this point, ECU and wiring might be suspect as well.

Once a drum is off, replace everything inside that's mounted to the backing plate.

Sorry, it's "JRA", not "JRE". My punishment will be driving a Camero.

earlyworm, this thread is four years old.

I had this code about 2 years ago on my 1995 2.2 l Impreza and did two things: repaired a rusted out flexible joint, and replaced the front oxygen sensor. The code has not come back. I believe it was the front sensor which made the difference, as the leaking joint was past both the front and the rear sensors. P0420 is set based on comparing the readings from the two sensors. The rear sensor has to be switching between "rich" and "lean" at a sufficiently slower rate than the front. If the front sensor becomes slow, it might set the code as if the converter was bad. The code can also be caused by a leak in the exhaust system. A 2001 model should have more refined OBDII diagnostics algorithms than 1995 (the 1st year), and the front sensor is a wideband type, but who knows. The sensor waveform can be tested, but if this is something you'd have to pay for (or to buy proper equipment for), you can just try and replace the sensor, after inspecting the pipework. At this mileage, it wouldn't be a waste. Besides, you'd still want to put a new one in if you were replacing the converter. OK, I am slow to type.

The valve cores are JRE ("Japan Refrigeration Engineers" ?) type. A place like NAPA or Carquest should have them.

As seen on the diagram, the extra set of contacts in the brake pedal switch is normally closed. If it's open, it may well be that the system won't power up.

Friends don't let friends work on their cars (someone tell that to my friends).

The pulleys were kept in factory boxes from the new parts, for almost 3 years. Wouldn't that make them good as new?

To replace the gasket between the extension housing and the transmission case, I understand one needs to drop the exhaust and underbody heat shield, and disconnect the driveshaft. Is that what they did? Just yesterday, I re-tightened for the second time the pan screws on my '95. It uses a gasket which hardened over time and will need to be replaced. A 1999 model should use sealant, so the leak may indeed be from elsewhere. Previously, I had a leak from the banjo bolt connection for the cooling line on the side of the transmission. The only tool that can reach that bolt, which faces the driveline tunnel, is a 19 mm offset box wrench. Fluid from that leak, too, would show at the rear edge of the pan.

3593A is the filter for most Hondas from the beginning of time up to the present.

A smooth-style band with a buckle, and a tightening tool won't cost much and are simple to use. You tighten the band, bend the end back over the buckle, and flatten the buckle with a hammer and a punch.

It's not just a lid because the pump and/or sender assembly is mounted to it, and has to be wiggled out of the tank.

I wouldn't sweat it too much because all oil leaving the pump goes straight into the filter. There is a chance to block the small return hole on the right (facing the engine) or even the pick-ip, but that would really be hard to do. FWIW, factory ThreeBond is not anaerobic.

Mike: since you found loose screws, maybe you removed the cover and cleaned the gears before re-assembling? In that case, assembly lubricant could be used but motor oil should be fine.

There's a part number for it that can be dug up, but I remember it doesn't come in small tubes and costs at least $40 or so.

The parts are original. They do not feel as tight as brand new ones, but have less miles than yours. I mentioned it just in case, because you are not buying new. So if you want them, let me know.

I have a set of idlers removed at 80K, you can have them for the cost of shipping (if I can find them).

When my dog saw a Goodyear blimp, she was so scared, she wanted to run for her life.

I recall it being "plain" T30 on a 1995 Impreza.

Wrere those from FWD models, by any chance?

My understanding is that it is more of a year-to-year and model-to-model difference. The ball-and-cage design is known as Rzeppa joint (after its Czech-American inventor), and the other one is known simply as "tripod". The tripod type is supposedly good for more torque and is also called "shudderless". It was used on SVX early on. My '95 Impreza has ball and cage inner joints, and the minivan has tripods.