avk

One switch has adjustable delay, the other does not. They interchange. The Limited model probably has the adjustable kind.

As far as I can tell, aftermarket idlers come from OE suppliers, NTN and Koyo. The only "catch" is that the smooth rollers are obsolete compared to current OE parts. They come with a single-row bearing vs. OE double-row. But it hardly matters if the parts are replaced at every timing belt change.

If the airbag warning light comes on as you turn the key, and then comes off and stays off, the dealer likely won't find anything wrong. There's no cabin filter or a provision to install one on this model.

That's right, I know it's hard to tell when you look at it. In fact, on some early engines with a new-style tensioner, the bracket can be swapped to install the better old-style unit instead.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_7/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_2/

When I was helping a friend change a lift support on a 2000 Outback, the new part did come with a new stud.

T30 if memory serves.

Unbolting the control arm from its forward mount on the crossmember gives enough play to slide the inner joint off the stub shaft. The sway bar also has to be disconnected from the arm. It's an easy method, except that the suspension needs to be loaded when tightening those bolts during re-assembly.

It looks like the ball stud would be very hard to pop out of the socket because the wire retainer spreads out and wedges itself between the two. You have to remove the stud somehow, it's replaceable.

You can use regular bolts with the old springs and double nuts, even stainless if you like.

Yes, unless there were DOHC versions in Japan, but probably there weren't. They did produce 2.0 engines with DOHC heads.

It's a 1995 2.2 l. The 2.5 looks like it was a market-driven redesign.

You might want to find out why it is there. I am not seeing any sludge on a 14-y.o. car.

Using an old seal helps to drive the new one in squarely, although such high accuracy may not be guaranteed.

Sandwich your old seal between the driving tool (such as PVC plumbing fitting) and the new seal. You will feel it when the old seal bottoms out in the chamfer. For the crank seal, it's not even an issue because the seal sits at the bottom of the bore.

Either the flange will crack with the main body, or it will not. I used a splitter on a nut with a captive washer, not quite the same, but the washer didn't stop the nut from cracking.

The splitter shouldn't damage the bolt, it just causes the nut to crack all the way through, at least when it's big enough, like in this case.

Can you fit a nut splitter in there?

Well, the bolt holes in the contacts are 8 mm, so if you need extra washers, in a pinch...

Yeah, same contacts as I changed in the minivan some weeks ago. They should have stayed with Mitsubishi starters.

Edit: what he said.

There are also small hoses to circulate coolant through the throttle body and IAC valve, and the temperature sensor in the coolant crossover pipe. I understand the pipe itself has been checked.

If memory serves, there are two different part numbers for the crank bolt although they may look the same. We do know there are two different pulleys. Maybe one bolt is stronger and can be tightened to a higher torque than the other. FSM for my 2.2 says something like 67-76 lb*ft but people say it's incorrect so I tightened to 90, using a new bolt, and keep checking from time to time.

Maybe the bolt is stretched or something. If in doubt, replace the bolt and also the key. I think they should be replaced when doing the timing belt. The cost is small compared to the other parts involved.

By "tailshaft", in this case they probably mean the AWD transfer clutch inside the extension housing, sometimes called "tailshaft housing". What happens is that the transfer clutch begins to bind or shudder. This clutch is like other clutch packs in your auto transmission but is constantly controlled by TCU through a solenoid which modulates the fluid pressure. Do a search on "torque bind". Sometimes the problem is cured by adding a friction modifier such as GM LSD additive, or similar generic product.