avk

Could be that the differential backlash or some other tolerances were not set properly by the re-manufacturer, but that's only a speculation.

Be careful using force on the cam support. The tolerances are close because this piece contains a cam bearing. So it's tight both on the outside (against the bore in the head) and on the inside (against the camshaft). You don't want to distort it, or score the bearing surface with the edge of the journal.

http://www.subarupartswebsite.com/OEMParts/subaru-153/3/35151AC030.html Not bad for a critical part like this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-99-SUBARU-LEGACY-GT-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-SHIFTER-CABLE-OEM-OE-USED-CABEL-/200708222624 Do check the price for a new one, though.

The older torque specification may have been too low, but, if memory serves, there have been no cases of a factory-installed bolt loosening up. If true, this leads me to believe that replacing the $5 bolt would be a very reasonable precaution.

See if you can find the plug for the actuator. If present, it would be taped to one of the harnesses around the engine, maybe by the firewall. My feeling is it's not there, because the wiring was eliminated on 2000-01 models, except when c.c. was installed at the factory.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M6X1-0-m-m-LFK-Steel-Rivet-Nut-Rivnut-Insert-Nutsert-/370309716699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56382ddadb

There might be access to the other side after removing the trim. Another option could be to install a rivet-nut.

It is adjustable on EZ engines. There have been threads about adjusting the valves, but it's not clear if anyone has actually done it as a maintenance procedure and not when doing a re-build.

I was thinking of the schematics for Tribeca, which has two accessory relays. If there's one for everything, that idea may not sound promising.

Just to clarify: the thermal fuse, if present, would be a part of the socket, and a new socket would solve the problem if the fuse is open. But in this case, something else seems to be going on.

You people scare me. Looks like valve adjustments on the 6-cyl. engine must be regular maintenance.

To do that on a Chrysler vehicle, one can buy a dummy accessory relay which is essentially a jumper. Of course, you can make your own, and it will be a really clean and reversible modification.

The FSM, of course, only shows how to do it with a dealer scanner. Since the communication protocol is standardized, maybe aftermarket professional-level tools will work as well, but I'm afraid you'd have to pay one way or another. On the upside, you can run both the instrument cluster and the HVAC control through really neat self-diagnostic sequences without a scanner, just turning the key and pushing some buttons.

If it's a true lighter socket, as a 1999 car would have, it might have a one-time thermal fuse, to prevent a fire in case the lighter doesn't disengage. Although, since there is a mention of a new socket not working, that might have been already ruled out. There may also be an SBF covering that circuit, but it shouldn't blow before the fuse does. Lastly, if there is an accessory relay, make sure it didn't get cooked. Sorry, the only wiring diagram I can see right now is for Tribeca.

I am sorry I'm not up to speed on this. Has it indeed been established that the Subaru additive is RadWeld?

If it was on one side only, I would suspect that a wrong bulb could have been installed at one corner, causing a connection between the two circuits. Now it looks unlikely, unless someone replaced all 4 bulbs with wrong type. If it's a bad ground connection, could be one for the cluster. In that case, when turn signals are off, there will be a ground path through the turn indicator bulbs. The current drawn by the cluster is small and so would be the voltage drop at the bulbs.

People do it on GD/GG Imprezas, so this must mean that Legacy bushings are quite different.

I like it a lot, but now have a Tribeca and the torque for axle nuts is 177 lb-ft.

Does this happen when you use a turn signal on either side, both left and right?

Check NASIOC, people long found a way to use aftermarket bushings for other makes sold under Dorman/Help! brand.

Does someone make a conversion kit for this purpose? Never heard of it. What are the components?

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-dual-hvac-double-din-jdm-kit-thread-113589.html?p=2496140 Don't want to know how much.

That's what I remember too. So it took the aftermarket something like 10-15 years to catch up.

The build date used to be on the VIN plate and a 1997 should have it. At some point, they stopped putting it on the plate.