avk

Thank you. Fudging it should solve the problem then. You probably mean that the upper seat needs to be aligned as well. I just assumed it should be sitting symmetrically with the top hat, because there's no step on it to locate the spring, unlike on the lower seat.

I am replacing rear struts on a '95 wagon (both totally busted at 118K miles, by the way). On this model, upper spring seat and strut-to-body mount are separate parts. My question is about the rotational position of the mount relative to the rest of the assembly. FSM shows the mount indexed to the shaft in such a way that one of its three studs points in the direction parallel to the strut-to-knuckle mounting brackets. The question: is this relationship exact, or is there a finer adjustment? How critical is it? Will the mount, already loaded by the spring, be able to rotate a little on the shaft to make up for a small misalignment? The manual only says to make "4WD" stamping face outboard, and nothing about the actual orientation of the mount.

The banjo connection mentioned above is at the center of the picture.

Just in case, try tightening the banjo bolt for the cooler line connection on the side on the transmission (in line with John's suggestion). Not the one visible in the photos, but the other one which is not. To reach it, use a 19 mm offset box wrench. Leaks through wire grommets were reported too.

Yeah, I likely misread the text by that picture. Here's the latest clarification: 21200AA072 + gasket = 21210AA030, 78C setting 21200AA170 + gasket = 21210AA080, 82C setting Forget about the 84C version for now. I did see it in the picture, but don't know the part number or what models it was used on.

Thanks. I tried to find about about the -AA170 version, and it appears to be the -AA080 without the gasket. This can be found only if you choose Euro applications, http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b12/type_21/cooling_system/water_pump/ You can also see there that early on, they changed the specification from 84C to 82C for the 6-cyl engine. By the time it became available in the US, it was 82C only. PS that info seems inconsistent because according to it, 21200AA072 is 21210AA030 sans the gasket. I don't think that's correct, need to double-check. The photo which led me to believe -AA030 was a 84C thermostat found here: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/userid/429470/car/344057/2093820/parts.aspx

I only have a general idea. it's best to check the temperature stamped on the factory unit. In a few words, AA072 is the "good old" for EJ22/EJ18/EG33 and earlier EJ25. All 6-cyl. EZ engines use AA080. On newer EJ25, both AA030 and AA080 can be found (source: opposedforces). I'm not quite sure if that was a year-to-year change, or a difference between turbo and non-turbo models.

Just noticed that OE new-gen. thermostats, although physically all the same, come with at least three different temperature setiings. Specifically, 21200AA072: 78C 21210AA030: 84C 21210AA080: 82C Most aftermarket vendors cover all three applications with a single part, a 78C thermostat. PS: this is incorrect, read on.

Remove the glove box. That will provide access to both the blower motor and to the resistor pack. By removing both, you will have access to the intake path, and a good view of the evaporator core. Hopefully that will be enough to identify and correct the problem. By the way, shouldn't a '03 model have a HVAC filter? If there is one installed, just pull it out, and you'll find your answer.

It would help to know the year and model of the car. You can always start with removing the blower motor and poking around with a flashlight and inspection mirror.

Take a look here, https://www.belmetric.com/flange-bolts-jis-109-m10x125-flange-bolts-c-2_69.html?zenid=ea0eil8l10ft0gmi5ehkggoih5

Some Euro parts on RockAuto look cheap until you get to the shipping options. Their shipping charges may still be the best anywhere, but they drive the total cost up significantly.

I agree that would be a good way to go, and since this is all about being practical, maybe 60K is too early for those spark plugs. I would much rather go through the whole thing at 100K. Just recently helped a buddy buy a 2008 Corolla wagon Pontiac Vibe. The schedule calls for new plugs at 120K . The thing is ridiculously low maintenance compared to any Subaru, on paper anyway, but I digress.

EZ engine was designed with a chain so it would fit lengthwise into existing Legacy platform. No maintenance needed there, but you will be spending almost as much time replacing the spark plugs as you would on a timing belt.

I thought this might relate to a vacuum leak in the cruise control affecting the feedback loop for the cat. monitor (similar to what Ivan is saying about FPR), but doesn't a '05 model have an electronic throttle?

According to FSM, rotating the retainer by one tooth changes the backlash by 0.05 mm. So if it were off by a full turn, you would likely notice. That number is for 5EAT, but the retainer threads are likely the same on all front differentials.

I have a flex-fuel minivan (which has never seen E-85 here in NJ). The parts different from standard model are pump/regulator assembly, injectors, and stainless fuel rail. The ECU may be different as well, although nothing is different in terms of its control inputs and outputs.

Most of Subaru axles are from NTN, except for some WRX axles that I understand are GKN. The joint size is stamped somewhere on the cup. This is the overall diameter with the boot installed. I believe 82 mm has been the size of NTN inner joints on all AWD front axles starting with the first Legacy platform. The service manual refers to the joints by their NTN abbreviations. The inner one is EDJ and the outer one on that car is probably EBJ. But indeed it could be more practical to go with a used part, if the original joint is no longer usable. Those parts from the catalog may be available to rebuilders, but I am not aware of any retail sources in the US. Then, of course, the inner joint is available as a Subaru part, but it will cost you.

Reboot the axles if they have any miles on them. The right inner boot from a turbo car will tear up before you know. The outer boots could be left alone, especially if they are plastic (Hytrel).

It won't take much effort to indentify the joint in the NTN catalog, based on the data about its type and diameter from the FSM, but finding a supplier is another matter. The eight-ball inner joint is probably EDJ82. http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/website/documents/brochures-and-literature/catalogs/cvjs%20for%20auto%205601-je.pdf

S-Wings Auto in Colorado used to offer a kit that used roll pins to key the pulley to the timing sprocket. I didn't find the pictures, but here's the post that mentions it. Perhaps this kit can still be ordered. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=393040&postcount=3

Check the winch mechanism for the spare wheel, make sure it's operable.

Tribeca uses 5EAT with VTD. In any case, I agree with Gary that the OP will not be likely to follow up.

What was the weird feeling when driving at highway speeds?

I never thought about that, and it is very important if you think about it. I'm just hoping that, with the timing belt removed, the camshaft would turn towards the unloaded position by itself.