avk

It may be a good idea to check the rubber for cracks when changing the timing belt. I replaced the pulley because of that.

There's a very precise clearance against the camshaft, and also a tight fit into the bore. It helps to turn the support as you move it along the shaft.

My 1995 Impreza has a tar-like coating on the bottom from the factory. Probably sound deadening. Looks like in some places, it was applied before the paint and in others, after. Not sure about newer models. FWIW, there's a TSB warning against using that location as a jacking point.

I see that we agree, in principle, on how this could come about.

An ASE-certified mechanic used this bracket to hoist the car. It is not designed to carry vertical load. With any luck, it can be fixed by disassembling and bending the bracket back into shape.

The cap works as a thrust bearing for the camshaft. It has a wear limit. I don't really know how normal it is for them to wear out.

If you removed the dipstick tube, replace the two O-rings there as well.

Next time, the bolt might break. You might want to replace it, it's cheap.

There are no "double-iridium" plugs yet, as far as I can tell. And with a waste-spark ignition, with half of the plugs firing in reverse, both electrodes need to be of the same material in order to realize the extended longevity. By the way, the electrodes on "copper" plugs are not made of copper. They are made of a refractory alloy.

This is why chain wrench should not be used.

So it was 4/27 and the sticker was good through 4/30? I am sure they saw the dollar signs. Reminds me of a place that told me on 30th of July many years ago that all four wheel bearings were "loose" on my late Ford and they had to keep the car because it was "unsafe" to drive. They left it in the bay with the key in, so I had to get in and drive it out. Ah, memories (if we're naming names, it was Wilson Auto on Rte. 120 S in Lebanon, NH).

I subscribe to the view that these tools are worth the money (if you can get them cheap), but to tighten the bolt, all you need is to jam the flywheel or the torque converter. Replacing the seals is a good idea, or at least to have them on hand in case you find a leak.

It just doesn't look like there's a problem with the alternator.

I measured the ripple, or tried to measure I should say. With the meter set for AC, there was no meaningful reading. Same thing happened when I did it for comparison on my minivan. I suppose one needs a true RMS meter to get a good reading. It would jump between 0 and 35 V, so it's not even the DC bias that throws it off. Same on both cars. On DC voltage setting, there was fluctuation in the range of few tenth of a Volt. The CEL stays off for now.

I'll do it as soon as I can get my hands on that car.

I did use a DMM as shown in FSM, if it can still be trusted. The pulse frequency isn't great, something like two per second. It makes sense, because it takes time for the sensor to heat up or cool down, that is there's a reaction time involved. But even if the readings aren't quite accurate, it's still puzzling that they didn't change much at all. Of course it would be interesting to see the actual waveform. Adding to the confusion, I found that the code P1133 is defined differently for AT models. With MT, P1133 is "high input" but for AT it's listed as "low input". The other code is P1132, also with opposite meanings for MT and AT. I even looked through the available corrections, now free at techinfo, and didn't find any changes to this. But apparently, this particular problem affects mostly MT vehicles from model years 2000 and 2001 (in the Legacy line at least) so the confusion with code definitions does not come into play.

You only need to drop it if the gears are bad. The rest is accessible.

I ended up using a three-jaw puller. It was actually assembled from three different ones: forcing screw from the first (others too long to fit), jaws from the second (others would slip), link bars from the third (to make it all work together). But cutting threads in the holes and using a steering wheel puller seems like the correct way to go if you got a stubborn one. With a puller, you also need to insert some sort of spacer that would bottom out in the crankshaft hole so as not to damage the threads.

Many thanks to both of you for taking your time to think about this problem. Let me begin with saying that it did go away after I opened up the harness trying to chase the short circuit, but I am not sure what could have been the cause. I also believe that FSM is incorrect on this one. More details are given in the comments below. That was done: we unplugged them and checked the resistances for shorts and continuity. The ground-side wire from the heater actually splits in two (there's a splice close to the firewall on the interior side) and connects to two pins on the ECU. This is probably because a single pin there is too small to handle the current. So we tested this wiring and didn't find anything. At one point it seemed like there was something wrong with the spliced connection and we decided to open up the harness. We unwrapped it both on the inside and on the outsdie. It was all in plain view except for the portions inside the grommet seal and another one where it runs up the firewall behind the AC box. Nothing was visibly amiss and voltage and resistance readings did not change when we were pulling and twisting the harness. To gain room for removing the tape in the engine compartment, we unplugged the ECU harness from the two big square connectors on the engine. Maybe that's what made a difference, but when we plugged everything back together to take readings with the harness unwrapped and started the engine, the CEL was gone. This indeed might have to do with the root of the problem because the ECU is grounded through ground connections on the engine. That is, the ground wires in the ECU run to those square engine connectors which we unplugged and then plugged back together. If there was a bad ground, it could have fixed it. I didn't expect these plugs to be a trouble spot, but the car had head gaskets replaced under extended warranty some years back and perhaps the connectors weren't plugged back all the way. Can't be sure about it, but that's all I can come up with. The book says 8V is the limit but the only way we can get a reading below 8V is with the sensor unplugged and key on, engine not running. Now with CEL off, the readings are the same as before if not higher, so I don't even know what the correct diagnostic procedure should be. Any comments from the pros on this one? No surprise people have been having such trouble with this code. Did I say EJ25 sucks? I didn' measure the AC pulse but will do for a good measure. The rest has been addressed above. Thanks again and if the problem should come back or I have any more ideas, I will post an update. What's funny is that there's a strong chance that both the sensor and the ECU were good to begin with. I wonder why the replacement ECU is only $200: maybe they want us not to feel too upset about it.

The voltages in the heater element circuit were measured relative to the body ground, as directed. Specifically, one of the meter probes was in contact with the bare-metal ECU bracket. The resistance between the bracket and the ground wires coming into ECU reads zero, so that location was as good as any. The two voltages we measured relative to the ground were (1) the constant power supply voltage, coming from the battery through the main relay, which read 14V and (2) the voltage on the other side of the heater element, in the line between the ECU driver circuit and the heater. That voltage was seen switching in the range of approximately 9.5 to 11.5 V. The driver is pulse-width modulated, so the pulsing is normal, but the number is too high according to FSM which instructs to look for a short circuit to the battery side, but we haven't found one yet, unless 1 Ohm for the heater is really out of spec. Both voltages were measured at the corresponding pins on ECU connectors (the power supply for the sensors also comes into ECU).

If the needle doesn't move at all, there's probably something wrong with the cable or with the adapter that goes into the transmission.

Thanks, we did check the ground to ECU. It's the only ground connection involved. The heater current is controlled through the ground side. There is a wiring diagram posted in one of the past threads.

Oh yes. I was making use of my Subaru Bucks, unfortunately with no success so far. The part numbers are 22641AA00A for the sensor and 22611AF60ERB for the ECU (remanufactured, which is what the catalog calls for). Add: another piece of data I have is the resistance of the heater element. It's about 1 Ohm at room temperature. I understand it's a normal value for an A/F (wideband) sensor although regular type should read about 5 Ohm. The resistance is the same between old and new sensors. But if 1 Ohm were, in fact, too low, it would explain the short circuit but also imply that something caused both sensors to go bad, perhaps the old ECU if it itself was bad. Then we'd just need to change the sensor one more time. There's no specification for the heater element resistance in the FSM, other than it has to be below 10 Ohm. But Toyota was using this type of sensor in late 1990s-early 2000s and their manuals give the figure of 0.8 to 1.4 Ohm which is what I measure. If someone can measure the resistance of a known good A/F sensor, between the terminals connected to two black wires, it would be hugely helpful.

There is a number of threads related to this code, "Front Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit High Input" and I have looked through them. The problem I have is that the code is still there after replacing both the sensor and the ECU: first the sensor and then, when the code was still there, the ECU. This is on a friend's vehicle. If I erase the code, it comes back as soon as the engine is started, even though FSM says it's a two-trip code. I did some electrical testing prescribed by the FSM and found the voltage on the ground side of the heater, which is controlled by the ECU, to be indeed out of spec.: 9.5 V to 11.5 V while it should be below 8 V. The supply voltage is 14V with engine running. This might look like something is shorted but poking around with a meter and shaking the harness doesn't point at any fault so far. Anyone have any insights on this one? Thanks.

I hope the rust seen on the impeller wasn't there until the pump became exposed to the air.