avk

If there aren't any visible clips, there's no choice but to pull straight up, using only your hands if possible. When you mentioned clips, I read it as if you saw them.

On my '95 Impreza, it works as follows. The clips are two-piece type. Pop up the visible heads with a screwdriver, taped up if desired, and then you can pull the sill out with the clips still in it. Doing it in a warm weather reduces the risk of breaking anything. The inward edge of the sill trim has a bent over lip that engages a channel piece stapled along the edge of the carpet.

Speaking of Ladas, I believe thay had a proper crank handle included with the tool kit, at least the "classic" ones.

I meant to compare the fixes between Mitsubishi and Denso, but of course the easy fix doesn't always solve the problem. FWIW, Chrysler FSM says not service the starter (which is Denso) but always replace. But then, it says to replace the steering rack if inner tie rods are bad.

Nippondenso/Denso starters are the most common type and they indeed are repaired simply by replacing the contacts which are available from multiple aftermarket sources. But I know the starter on my 1995 is a Mitsubishi. Not sure about the 1998 Legacy in question but I believe it's a Mitsubishi too.

Replacement starter solenoid: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STARTER-SOLENOID-FORD-GEO-KUBOTA-MAZDA-NISSAN-SUBARU_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33576QQihZ024QQitemZ370003448133QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

The vanes on a stamped impeller are straight, but not radial. Not sure what the real engineering considerations are. One of the factors which limits the pump flow capacity is the onset of cavitation. Perhaps a non-shrouded impeller is more cavitation-resistant, but I haven't really looked into it.

Very interesting. Wasn't coupe a US-only body style? Although maybe it was available in other markets as one of numerous special editions.

The aftermarket brand of OE supplier is Paraut. But no guarantee that it's made to exactly the same specifications as the factory unit.

An Actron code reader, the small orange one, connects to my 1995 Impreza w/o problems. With OBD-II, there's only one style of connector. Does the underhood label say "OBD-II certified"?

Now with two threads on one page!

Current service manuals, starting around year 2000 or so, do specify 132 lb*ft of torque for the crankshaft bolt. However, the current part number for this bolt is different from the one for "old school", as I learned recently when a FSM page was posted on NASIOC. But indeed people say the old spec. is too low. So the mystery remains. I tightened the bolt to 90 lb*ft.

If you cannot find this fluid, or regular Mobil, in a re-labeled form, I believe you can use a different brand. That's what happened two times in the past when I had the fluid changed by a dealer shop. They'd just drain and refill with what they had. Different brands of the same type of fluid are supposed to mix with each other.

Their current specification is Dexron-VI, backward-compatible, and that's what they're licensing for the aftermarket. Mobil 1 is not yet on their list: http://www.gm.com/explore/technology/gmpowertrain/transmissions/DEXRON_VI_Service_Fill_Release_31MY07.doc This is similar to the change from ATF+3 to ATF+4 by Chrysler.

The current p/n for the lower pulley is same as for the upper, that is both are now double-row, integral design. With aftermarket kits, you still get two different ones.

I see. Could it be that there's more carbon in the exhaust on pre-OBDII vehicles? With my sensor, the best I could tell it was the rusted sealing ring which was making it hard to turn. It fell off afterwards. The converter threads were in a good shape and I just wiped them with brake cleaner.

Recently I replaced one on a 1995, w/o dropping the Y. A socket that did work was a "heavy duty" offset type with a double-square 1/2" drive. You just need to put the socket and the breaker bar into the right position. The converter housing is stainless, so the sensor should come out without much struggle, especially after applying PB Blaster for a couple of days.

Lots of room for confusion here, to be sure, including the meaning of "genuine". I'm not saying you must order individual wires, just trying to explain the difference between wires from boxed sets and those installed at the factory. Maybe the reason they came up with those sets is that indeed it would be difficult to order the wires individually, and many would balk at the cost. But the boxed sets are simply re-labelled aftermarket parts. As you just found yourself, they are not identical to OE. I did order the wires by part number (which was the same for all four on my 1995 2.2l) and received wires identical to the original ones. To paraphrase George Orwell, all ignition wires are genuine, but some wires are more genuine than others.

Looking it up at subaruparts for 1998 Impreza 2.5 (their Legacy lookup was never finished), you need one 22451AA580, two of 222454AA130, and one 2452AA620, at the cost of about $50.

The parts whose numbers start with "SOA" are not identical to the parts installed at the factory. They are aftermarket parts sold through dealerships.

$495 sure will buy a lot of fluid, like 20 gallons of synthetic oil or maybe 60 gallons of coolant, or some of each.

Harbor Freight caliper saves the day! I now have one too.

Just want to add that on my '95 Impreza, the flange on the converter side rusted off and I had to replace it with a split flange (of laminated type). The whole joint was held together by rust, because the donut is reinforsed with a wire mesh, so there was some serious rust sandwich there.

If you do need a rear diff. and this one has the correct ratio, there's nothing you should fear about buying this one. Also, I'd like to be the next in line, to get it just in case, unless someone else needs a diff. urgently.

I should have quoted OP, my question was for him. On Legacy models, the vacuum to the servo a.k.a. actuator was supplied from an electric pump rather than from intake manifold. I believe it was a carry-over from the previous generation which included turbo models.