avk

Sometimes you do need the manual if you want to avoid damage. A good example is removing cigarette lighter.

The wagon is not "GC", it's "GF".

To me the most important thing seems to fill it up slowly. Some air does get trapped but it purges out eventually. What reaches the radiator and gets pushed out through the overflow hose, can't go back in. Takes a cup or two of coolant mix to finally correct the level. More on a minivan with a second heater core in the rear. Try to purge that.

It will fit, but may need a different O-ring for the outlet on the back, depending on the year. There was a thread with part numbers.

Steve: if using a puller is necessary (rust penetrants don't help) , you might try threading the holes in the sprocket. I had to use a puller on the pulley but not on the sprocket. A jaw-type puller did the job, after a great deal of fiddling.

Folger Subaru in NC (a vendor at NASIOC) used to have this particular kit. A Legacy kit might be harder to adapt than one for a different year, or automatic, Impreza, because that system uses an electric pump to provide vacuum, so the wiring is very different.

How many Ohms do you see?

You measure the resistance with the sensor unplugged. But these sensors are known to fail intermittently. If there's a trouble code, just replace it.

For 1995, Outback was an appearance package, with regular road clearance and roof height.

I am not hands-on with this type of work, but had the impression that the original poster wanted to remove the oil pump, which would give access to the pipe.

Maybe it's the pipe around the input shaft where it goes through the front diff. housing. FSM does say to use a new one, see here on p.4 (orig. page 67): http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/lee/18575.pdf

That's right, electrode erosion depends on the polarity. By the way, for anyone who wants to use platinum plugs on these engines, only double-platinum will do, or you'd be wasting your money because of wasted spark.

2.2 l engines had EGR only with auto transmission and OBDII. On EGR-equipped engines, left cylinder head has a passage drilled into exhaust port from the rear side.

Others reported success with this procedure (which is given in a factory TSB) in the past. I hope the fix is still working for them.

Get a hold of a FSM, it describes the procedure. The x-member doesn't need to be removed because it has access holes (only the jacking plate has to be removed). This job seems to fall into "easier said than done" category but some people have actually done it.

Factory airbag turn-off kits are available. There are TSBs with part numbers. But they cost a lot for what they are and, to get one, you need to apply for an exemption with NHTSA.

One sure sign of OBDII is the presence of EGR system, however with 2.2, it was only installed on cars with auto transmissions. Then of course from 1997 on there are different valve covers and spark plugs are in the center. Also, if the engine is from 1994 or older, it's not OBDII. Some telltale signs: decorative cover (or at least brackets to hold it), cam and crank sensors with pigtails, box-shaped steering reservoir.

To replace a complete switch, you need to remove the steering wheel. Timewise, the effort might be about the same because it involves less fiddling with the wiring. Costwise, with brand new parts, there's a big difference. With used parts, it's not an issue but the required top-of-the-line donor vehicles may be scarce in salvage yards (still, if only the wiper switch is replaced, choices are wider because an adjustable switch from any 1990-99 Legacy will do). On NASIOC, write-ups are posted on how to do it either way.

The circuit board is a part of the wiper switch assembly. The whole thing attaches to the combination switch body with two screws. The p/n in question (for wagons) is 83113AA520, mine was installed last summer.

When thermostat is fully closed, the temperature it senses is indeed close to the engine temperature, even if it sits at the rad. outlet. But an important consideration is what happens when the engine is fully warmed up. Then the thermostat remains partially open at all times, increasing or decreasing the flow to maintain the designed operating temperature. Assuming the target temperature is fixed, a thremostat located at the rad. outlet should have a lower opening temperature than one located at the inlet.

Because it sits at the radiator outlet.

From the factory, the pan would be sealed with RTV. Has your powertrain warranty expired?

The relays are in the black box next to the hydraulic unit. One of them, the motor relay, is a known problem according to a TSB.

Yes, that system is cumbersome. Besides the EGR valve itself, it involves backpressure transducer and actuating solenoid. Then there's atmospheric pressure sensor on the right strut tower. It also comes only with AT and, although not exactly a part of EGR system, the sensor signal is used to monitor its operation. And next to the sensor, there's a solenoid that switches pressure inputs betwen the intake manifold and the atmosphere. So there are vacuum hoses and hard lines everywhere.

I believe the cover is not available separately, so a practical solution would be to buy a used airbag.