avk

Generic OBDII software should be enough at least for older Subarus, considering that auto transmission, ABS and airbags have self-diagnostics.

No low-fuel light on 1993-97 Imprezas, at least in US & Canada.

It indeed seems physically possible to remove pistons with engine in place, but it may not be a good practice for several reasons, and I'd be surprised it it was widespread.

As seen in the photo, there's a drain hole that needs to be kept clean. Water collected in the box which houses wiper linkage and HVAC air intake also drains into the fenders. If you don't have sand there, you'll at least have leaves.

Note that replacement wires whose part numbers begin with "SOA" (SOA430Qxxx) are, in fact, aftermarket wires packaged in Subaru boxes and are not identical to those installed at the factory.

Ford, by the way, did come up with an extended warranty for the 3.8 even though it was too late for many. And although hard numbers are not available in either case, I suspect that engine did have a lower incidence of head gasket failures than Subaru 2.5 l. I had a 1989 Taurus wagon w. 3.0 which was originally from New Hampshire and was retired at 182300 miles in Feb. 2005 after a steel brake line rusted through.

I believe they both have 4.11 (37/9) final drive ratio. I know my '95 2.2 Impreza has 4.11 and it's unlikely that Legacy had 4.44 (40/9) which is the next one up. The Legacy transmission might have more more friction pairs in some of the clutches, which is the case for SVX vs. the rest and also for 2.2 Impreza vs. 1.8, but here I'm just speculating.

I replaced original Packard wires from 1995 with the same kind. The old ones still had the correct resistance.

I replaced timing belt with all the rollers, water pump, and tensioner at just over 80000 miles and since then, have been hearing a faint, intermittent high-frequency sound at idle speed, which wasn't there before. It's been there for 1500 miles and doesn't really worry me: maybe it's the new belt riding on old sprockets, or some such. Maybe it'll go away.

The "suck out through dipstick tube" method is good for transmissions, esp. automatics w/o drain plug but also whenever the plug is hard to reach. You don't need a vacuum extractor, but only a hand pump and a drain container.

There's a kit with both cam and crank sensors made available under the recall in 1995 or 1996. If you order it by part number, it will cost much less than ordering the sensors individually.

Carl: the old TSB calls for GM additive, don't remember if it says how much. I'm guessing it's a full "small" bottle. Someone with a current techinfo subscription may be able to look it up, I didn't save that one.

The groove worn by the seal (into the aluminum housing, per TSB), as well as failed solenoid, are two known "hard" causes for the bind. But a 1998 trans. should already have a steel sleeve in the housing, and a solenoid would set a code.

It just might be a permanent, or at least semi-permanent fix. My suspicion is that Dexron-spec. fluid is simply not always adequate for this type of constantly engaged clutch. Kind of like Chrysler transmission, controlled entirely through solenoids, that may shudder if filled with Dexron but works good on ATF+3 or +4. Last time, I used Valvoline "high mileage" ATF which meets both Dexron and Mopar specifications, for better peace of mind re. torque bind.

The limited-slip additive in AT affects the transfer clutch located in the extension housing. It is a solution recommended in a factory TSB.

See if this may be covered under powertrain and/or emissions warranty.

Maybe somewhere along the way, someone dropped the driven gear inside the diff.

Could it be that they held the sprocket with some type of huge pliers and just cracked it?

The very first picture seems to show a manual transmission. Reed switches were only used with cable speedometers. Your sensor sits on the differential, just where it should be.

There's a drain hole there which apparently becomes clogged. I flush it when washing the car.

Sounds like a good idea. But to really get the grease in it you might need a grease gun with cable-lubricating attachment ot some such.

The cable-driven speedometer is an old electromechanical type and has a reed-switch speed sensor inside for ECU. If the needle is bouncing but no trouble codes are set, chances are the problem is with the speedo itself. But might be the cable. There's no extra sensor in the front.

An independent shop would still charge a dealer list price, or thereabouts, for parts, even if they're aftermarket. Mark-up on parts is a necessary part of the business. By the way, OE parts at thepartsbin.com cost a good deal more than at discount dealers such as subarugenuineparts and subaruparts.

A safe way to remove the blanks is by squeezing the tabs, after removing the bezel, which on 2d gen. Legacy is easy.

More on eBay pulleys: there's one from the same seller advertised for 1999-04 and sold for $27 as a replacement for OE p/n 12305AA242. But that number in fact supercedes what they list for the one sold ar $49, which is 12305AA210. I have a "242" pulley on a 1995 2.2 l engine. So if the seller's cross reference is accurate, the correct pulley can be had for $27.