avk

This subject comes up periodically. Outback and Forester also have "lift kit" with spacer blocks betwen body and suspension/drivetrain.

The O-ring sits between the pump outlet and main oil gallery in the block. That would be around the big hole at the bottom right corner of the pump, as pictured. For pre-1998 engines, the part number is 806919050.

I dont really want to get hung up on this one and just want to say that it's all relative. What's important is that the pump creates a difference in pressure between inlet and outlet.

All the pulleys touching the smooth side of the timing belt rotate against the crank, that is counterclockwise if you look from the front. If you look at the pump from the inside, as on the photos, the impeller rotates clockwise. It sucks cooant from the radiator and creates high pressure in the round chamber from where the fluid flows into the block (separately top and bottom halves of it).

In early June I bought a water pump, among other things, from subarugenuineparts (thanks again Jamie) and it had a cast-iron impeller, same as the pump removed from a 1995 engine. And Paraut is an (exclusive) aftermarket division of the OE supplier in Japan: http://www.central-auto.co.jp/international/paraut.html Add: Endwrench does show different part numbers between 2.2 and 2.5, although that list might not be up to date: http://endwrench.com/oepropdf/enginecomponents.pdf?PHPSESSID=d481aeb7c626db6e5b02e8ce432b96af

But that was about the control arm pivot bolt, that is where the control arm attaches to the crossmember. It would be hard to read "pivot" any differently.

I have one extra lower timing cover gasket, still in a bag, p/n 13594AA011.

Also check if the replacement crank pulley is same diameter as the old one. I don't really know if it can be different but some pulleys for 2.5l look different from those for 2.2. But it still comes down to the correct belt size.

If the greasy looking deposit is at no. 1 intake runner, it might be from a leaking O-ring under the steering pump reservoir, or from some other connection at the pump.

Only the rear pivot has some adjustment to it, the front has a regular bushing.

I did use the front-pivot method on Impreza and it worked. I believe there's an old TSB suggesting this procedure for all models (not sure about SVX).

I used this one, http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00947091000 It's the ultimate bent screwdriver.

I believe the difference, if any, could only be in the wiring. If you keep the original airbag (and cruise switch, if equipped) there shouldn't be any trouble.

SSC, guess you should be glad the plugs weren't touched, or you'd be finding more HeliCoils in that engine.

If all else fails, you can just replace the tensioner bracket, but it's not cheap.

I did reseal the oil pump while doing a timing belt recently. But mostly because of the reports of loose screws on the pump's back cover on some engines of that vintage (1995), and a TSB about possible casting flash left in the oil return hole in the block, to the right of the crankshaft. No problem was found with either item. On newer engines, i don't see a good reason to remove the oil pump. The O-ring for the oil gallery and the sealant are the same as used between the halves of the engine block, so one wouldn't expect them to fail prematurely.

The "transfer clutch" lesson: Clutch the cash tightly. Do not transfer.

Not all SOHC cams have the hexagon. Those with hydraulic lash adjusters certainly do not. porcupine: That tool costs about $65 from SPX. I understand it's less if you're able to open a business account with them. The wrench is made in Japan and has a Subaru part number on it. It's a good 1/4" thick and very heavy.

Both Harborfreight and OE tools are worth their price.

The forked tool in the photo is in fact a camshaft sprocket wrench 499207100 although I'm not sure if it'll work on the 2.5 l engine in question. I have one (and a crankshfat tool) and believe it was worth the money.

The gasket is compressed in its bore to pre-determined thickness. For it to seal on all sides, it is important that the groove on the gasket fit snugly around the thermostat.

Did you use a new gasket? Tightening the bolts won't help if the plastic housing is already sitting flat against the pump flange.

If the coild wasn't attached with screws, it should have come off at least with the help of a puller. Maybe everything on the front of the compressor was indeed thoroughly cooked. I once replaced a coil on a GM compressor and it was not pressed very tightly. The pulley bearing already holds it in place.

Replacing the compressor might make sense because the shaft seal on this one could be cooked. Otherwise, I'd prefer to keep the factory unit and not open the lines. The seal, too, can be replaced but that already involves discharging the AC.

The coil is usually pressed, not tightly, on a "snout" around the compressor shaft. There also might be a spring clip. You should be able to pry it off.