avk

On the transmission case thare are several diagnostic pressure taps with tapered plugs. One of them might be good place for a temperature sensor. Actually, there's already a sensor inside the transmission. It's used by TCU. It should be possible to measure the temperature simply by reading the sensor voltage, but a custom circuit would likely be needed.

I understand that on earlier automatics, there was a problem with a seal spinning in its bore in the tailshaft housing. The internal leak that resulted from wearing the bore by the spinning seal caused loss of pressure and shudder (binding) in the clutch.

The required M8 bolts can be "borrowed" from top radiator support brackets.

It looks like FHI was getting an Isuzu diesel thanks to their partnership with GM, but now that may change.

Inside DOJ housing (the round piece with a splined end attached to it), there's a wire circlip in a groove along the edge. After you pick it with a screwdriver and remove, the balls come out of the races, the cage comes off, and you see the inner race held to the axle shaft with an external snap ring. You clean the parts, fill the boot with some grease, slide the small end of the boot on the shaft, assemble everything back together with grease, then put the big end on the housing. Don't even need to remove the other end from the hub.

This has become an off-topic thread, but why complain about "Chrysler electronics" if there are post here every week about cam/crank/temp/maf/map etc sensors failing? Chrysler supplied a guidance system for the moon rocket - granted, that was long ago. They have had LANs in their vehicles for 15 years. Magnum and 300 are derived from the same platform. I'm sure Magnum Hemi has much the same suspension as the 300 Hemi sedan. Since 16th century, pushrods have come a long way, too.

IAC valve is pulse-width modulated by ECU in a wide range, not unlike solenoids in auto transmission. FSM says there's no service adjustment procedure. Looks like if everything is working correctly, ECU will simply compensate for any change in adjustment.

It's important to keep the c.c. throttle cable adjusted for free play. Or if the controller adapts to slack like on some other makes, the speed has to be set before lifting foot off the pedal: otherwise the c.c. will act as if there was slack and pull the cable fast.

The heater (blend door) cable is connected on the left side of the air handler box behind the radio. That's to the right and upward of the gas pedal. See if it moves when you turn the dial, that will tell which end is disconnected.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1114

I thought about it once because I wanted to have a clock with a dial and hands. Those come in same standard sizes as add-on gauges. You can put one anywhere it'd fit, even in an A-pillar pod.

When the clutch fails to engage, does it still have power? If yes, it's either a bad (intermittently open) coil, or a gap out of adjustment. Both things can be corrected w/o removing the compressor.

The only real option with factory lights, besides junkyard, is to buy a complete fog lamp kit.

Please read the code if it's still active, or in the memory, and post it.

The two identical camshaft O-rings sit under the camshaft cover on the back of the right head (where oil feed for the turbo would be), and behind the camshaft support on the left head. It's probably a good idea to do them: the right one is easy, and the left one is only a few bolts away while you're in there. I plan to do that, and also want to get a new crank bolt and the Woodruff key. Plus there are two obscure L-shaped rubber pieces by the oil pump and by the water pump that are probably a part of the timing cover seal. If you have an AT and plan to remove the radiator then new trans. cooler hoses would be a good idea too.

We are mixing Old Testament and New here, I'm afraid...

The engine volume is 2212 cm^3 which is almost exactly 135 inch^3 (just to be fair!).

The taillight/illumination relay might be bad. The primary circuit is always hot, so if the relay is stuck, the lights will be on.

What was the actual code?

If the clip and everything else isn't damaged, the shaft should snap back in. That's what the book says but I didn't have to do it myself.

The stub shaft is held in the diff. with a C-clip. It probably just snapped out. Don't know why but maybe you do.

See if it's covered by 5/60 powertrain warranty.

My van is a plain 1999 Dodge [Grand] Caravan with 3.3l, bought used. Beginning in 1998 and until about 2003 a good portion of 3.3l minivans were flexible-fuel. There's no badges or other markings, just a decal on the inner side of the fuel door. Currently that engine is only available on fleet vehicles. "Flex-fuel" only means being able to run ethanol-gas mix in any proportion up to 85%. None is sold in NJ. The nearest public station I looked up was in MD.

I don't know much about flexible-fuel technology, but my understanding is it mostly involves ECU programming and fuel system. The compression ratio of my van's 3.3l pushrod engine is actually rather low, but not different from the gas-only version. It doesn't even have a knock sensor. The only visible "flex-fuel" sign is stainless fuel lines. The plugs are platinum but that's probably for 100K maintenance interval.

"E85" stands for 85% ethanol, and 15% gasoline. An engine designed for it will handle it just fine, when filled with oil rated for that fuel. The octane number is 100. It's used a lot in Brazil. How widespread it would be is mostly a question of economics.