avk

The airbag unit is held with two T30 screws, visible through the openings in the steering wheel trim. Remove the screws and pull straight out, parallel to the steering column. An instruction sheet for installing a cruise control has been posted just recently. It contains directions on how to remove the airbag.

Nice photos. So the bezel was not the hardest part. The control box design is very different from the older kind, not just by the number of dials but on the inside.

So have you been able to remove the bezel? Except for the opening around the controls, it's the same as previuos design, as the photo shows. If you do have to remove the box, then cables shoud be disconnected. I was prepared to do that on a '95 but found the bulbs sitting right on the top.

Scoobymods preserved that page as pdf, it's found in the bulb replacement thread on their site.

I know the box itself changed in '97 but the shape of the console and bezel was same as before. Then for '98 the box remained but the interior changed. The bezel probably just pries out, starting from the top. But it's better to look in a manual. FWIW, the bulb type for old style Impreza climate control is 74.

A '97 should be very close, except that the bezel seems to be held only with locking tabs and no screws. A 1993-96 control box has tree dials and there are screws above two of them, facing down.

On 1993-96 models it's very simple, you see the three bulbs on top of the control box as soon as you remove the trim bezel with vents.

Thanks for the update. On the photos, the two flattened ends with a hole for the socket look very much the same, but who knows. Maybe the original author met with the same problem and put on a tie wrap because of it. I used to think it was there to squeeze the tabs when installing the socket into the hole. Hope you'll fix it for good, one way or another.

It's true you may just as well sacrifice the cover in a case like this. But if you pry too hard against the oil pump behind, it could be sacrificed too.

You can't pry against the plastic cover but using a puller might work. Can pry between the bolt head and the pulley, if there's a gap.

Found it: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9953704&postcount=28

Someone on NASIOC reported buying similar replacement bushings for Chrysler vehicles, available in parts stores under "HELP" brand, and adapting them to fit.

Could it be that when they changed it the first time, they gouged the sealing flange on the block?

Something to check: on a 1990 engine with manual transmission, the IAC valve may be a Hitachi rotary type. If you choose to disassemble it, it will be different from what was described in the past.

Maybe the retaining C-clip on the shaft is simply worn or missing? The screw-in side caps are used for setting the backlash in the differential. You can't gain/lose a whole inch by adjusting them, anyway.

The belt marks obviously do not line up every other revolutiuon, but sprocket marks do. Suppose the belt isn't marked and timing is done by tooth count. What matters is that the three sprockets come back to the same relative position.

In those terms, the marks are at the right place every other revolution of the crankshaft, anyhow, but not every single revolution.

The camshaft makes one full revolution for two revolutions of the crank, so when the crank mark is up and the cam mark is down you're simply using the exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke to set timing, or maybe power stroke instead of intake stroke.

Maybe the idea was that you can turn the camshafts 180 deg., which corresponds to a full revolution of the crank. That'll work, except that there's only one timing mark on each sprocket. But one can make a new one, making sure it's different from the original. Can be just a punch mark.

It does seem odd that the mark on the left sprocket is not in the valley. The actual mark is just a short stamped line. Could it be that it's hidden by that yellow paint? Either way, it seems to be aligned correctly.

Use the marks on the sprockets as others have said. On the belt, one of the lines is also halfway between two teeth, so it will line up exactly.

Getting under the car and unscrewing stuff is exactly what you need to do. Remove screws and clips holding the splash guards, just enough so you can bend back the forward part from under the bumper. Then you'll see how the lights are attached to the bumper beam above.

There were several reports of plastic plugs missing from the hole on the clutch pedal bracket. The plug is used to push the switch.

What year is the donor car? If you look at the part numbers for Impreza cruise kits, they were different almost every year. Most differences should be minor but there could be some incompatibilities. Maybe it would help to look at wiring diagrams for both cars.

What worked for me was twisting the cam support while pulling. It has a machined "skirt" that fits into the bore in the head, while the inside surface works as a camshaft journal. Both of those clearances are very small and it just binds as you pull. Try to rotate it and pull squarely, it will come out. You can do it with the cam seal in place, like I did, but I believe it would be easier if you pull the seal before. Might want to keep that part in a plastic bag to keep the journal clean. Oil it generously when re-installing.