
avk
Members-
Posts
945 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by avk
-
Check with Folger Subaru. They seem to have cruise kits for all years of the Impreza, but don't list anything for the Legacy: http://www.flat4performance.com/closeout.htm At least they might tell you the part number, although a knowledgeable dealer anywhere should be able to do the same. You can then enter the part number on www.partsvoice.com to which many US dealer's inventories are linked, and there will a good chance someone will have it, even if at a "list" price.
-
Phase II is a design that started on Legacy in '99 and on Impreza in '00. I just tried to explain which engines have EGR. But yes, the reason they said to use '95 must be that it also has two-port exhaust manifolds (headers), like previous years, whereas '96 and newer 2.2s are single-port, unlike the 2.5. So that's right, the engine has to be from a '95 car with AT, unless you also swap the exhaust manifolds.
-
I replaced the knock sensor this past Monday. The light turned on the day before and it was already off before I read the code from the memory. I believe that cam, crank, coolant temp., and knock sensors all fail because of a cracked solder joint between a terminal pin and a connecting wire inside, and that's why the problem is intermittent. Overall, I had trouble codes for 3 out of 4 those sensors (except for crank, which was replaced anyway together with the cam sensor).
-
The ventilation controls on a '95 Impreza are cable operated, except the recirculation actuator which is electric and of course the compressor switch. If there's enough refrigerant in the system, I would suspect a faulty switch in the control panel, the one operated by the dial, that should be closed in "AC" and "MAX AC" positions.
-
The engines with EGR have an outlet port on the back of the left cylinder head (opening into #4 exhaust passage), and an inlet port on the intake manifold. If the replacement engine doesn't have those ports, which would be closed with some plugs, the solution seems to be to make the holes, or maybe do something simpler like tap into exhaust manifold instead of the head and use some existing vacuum port on the intake, and mounting the valve just where it can fit.
-
The adjustable-delay upgrade is a simple swap of the stalk switch on all Legacies and Imprezas manufactured to date. With an old-style switch that has mounting screws parallel to the steering column and a wiring pigtail, it would take more time than with a new (current) style. But they all swap directly.
-
Those two plugs are for diagnostics, but neither plugs into a scanner. If you keep them connected with ignition on, engine off, a number of relays and solenoids will cycle on and off. The most visible sign of it will be the cycling of radiator fans. Wait, I got it all wrong. If you connect those two plugs, your parking lights will stay on.
-
I did the front pads this week. A couple of things possibly worth mentioning: when pushing the piston back into the caliper, release the bleed screw so that dirty brake fluid won't be pushed back into the lines, esp. ABS controller and master cylinder. You might be surprised at how much comes out. Tighthen the bleed screw before releasing the clamp. A 10 mm flare nut wrench is your friend. Also, after the bolt (a.k.a. lock pin) holding the bottom sleeve is removed, you can just slide off the caliper off the top (guide) pin, with some twisting. Most people should be aware of that, but anyway. The guide pin and the sliding bore in the caliper body should be cleaned and lubricated. On my Impreza, the left side looked like the grease was missing from the factory. The service manual also instructs to fill with grease those little ruber boots (not unlike CV joints): that apparently helps to keep the boots from deforming, and to keep the dirt out. Another lubriication point is the spring clips where they make contact with the notches on the pads. Remember that this is where the entire force load is transferred from the pads to the caliper support, when braking. I used a synthetic wheel bearing grease. PS: most of the above is actually covered in preceding posts by SevenSisters and gbhrps. So please view this simply as a report about my brake replacement job.
-
"TSB" is a technical service bulletin, those are sent to dealers. To check the relay you can measure the voltage at the coil. If there's no voltage but the pump motor's running, the relay is stuck. The relay is one of the two under the black cover next to the hydro unit. It's probably easier just to buy the "ABS motor relay" and swap it. Chances are, it'll fix the problem.