Idasho

I have no problems splitting the case. Ive done trans work before, just not on a Subaru. Out the bottom it is! Are all of the seals still available from the dealer? Might as well replace them all. My 3rd gear is a bit of a grinder too. Syncros are nearly done for. So I will probably pick up a used trans and go through it before I drop the one in my car.

After yanking the motor for a re-seal and a ton of other stuff, tossing it back together and getting her back on the road.... I find that the main leak I was aiming to fix was NOT fixed. Looks like the input shaft seal on the trans may be leaking. Its the only other possible suspect. I thought that oil seemed a bit thick So.... Any tips for yanking the trans? Can you pull it out the bottom, or should I just yank the motor again? I love the smell of burning gear oil in the morning

still going.... http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/service1.htm

Hard to tell for sure from the photo, but it looks as though the clearcoat is actually stained/discolored. If that is the case, the only thing that will remove the coloring is to strip the clearcoat. You will want to reapply a clearcoat though, as it makes keeping the wheels clean MUCH easier.

Thanks for clearing that up. It didnt look like much would have to be modified. Ill look at it again and see if I want to go for it.

With the engine out of my '84 GL right now, I was casually thinking about installing a very small lift on it. Ive always thought it needed to be leveled, as it has the traditional stink-bug stance. Small as in 1.5", as I have some fresh 1.5 heavy gauge square tubing sitting in the corner of the shop, just begging to be used. Question though, as I have never lifted one of these subarus. The body and struts will be lifted 1.5 inches. With such a small lift, do you need to extend the steering and the shift linkage? Thanks for any help.

uh, no. I just purchased it

My post was not to challenge, or to stir thing up. I was simply showing an example how mileage doesnt always tell the whole story. As for mileage accuracy, with an old car like this, unless it REALLY looks the part of a super low mileage car, Id venture to guess it isnt. Stupid simple things happen that can effect the accuracy of the mileage. Speedo cable gets disconnected/breaks, cluster is replaced due to failure.... etc. Im not saying that any of this is the case, but it is always possible. And having records certainly helps. My car was not from Idaho. It came from WA. They use everything. Salt, de-icer, cinders, etc.

Well, the plot thickens. The bolt clearly had some kind of sealant on it, that was degrading. So I pulled the bolt out. Lots of oil inside the hole. Any suggestions? Does this bolt go through somewhere? Or does it dead-end?

I dont like working on dirty cars..... So i TRY to keep 'em clean! The faulty rear main seal on this GL made quite the mess. But nothing a bit of Purple Power and a pressure washer cannot fix.

Yep, motor is coming out, work is being done. Watch out! Here we go.... Website with a complete play-by-play here..... Will be updated until the service is done. http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/service1.htm

thanks dude.

Of course there is a difference. Undersized is needed when the crank shaft surface is machined. Oversized is needed when the connecting rod journals are machined. If neither has been machined, you need standards. I always use a bit of emery cloth to polish the surfaces prior to installing new bearings too. And can I ask why you are so hung up on buying motor parts like bearings off of ebay?? Rockauto has these clevite connecting rod and main bearings available. It might cost a bit more but you know you are getting the correct parts.

hmmm....

I yanked the EA81 out of my '84 GL this evening. For x-mas it is getting a complete re-seal. Starting with the nasty leaking rear main. I need to know what this bolt/plug is called, and how it is supposed to seal. It seems to be leaking a good deal of oil too. Thanks for any help!

Possibly. but I really doubt it. My '84 is damn near the same car, but cleaner, and it has 130k By the way, what designates it as a GL-10? Besides the badge of course. Mine has the digital dash as well, but it is just a GL

Anything that would plug a leak, you do NOT want in your motor. I imagine the bearings would be suffering from oil starvation long before your magic in a bottle did it's thing. That said, I have found the auto-RX is very good at conditioning seals, and fixing "weaping" seals, that are not quite due for replacement.

If it has enough play to feel, it is suspect. There really shouldnt be any side to side play. 1/8 inch is WAY too much. This is evident of a worn upper bushing. The distributor is designed to "float" up and down, but 3/16 is too much. You need a new dizzy.

Zirgo's are very popular in the hot rod scene. As a matter of fact, I have a couple listed for sale on another forum. Maybe you are interested? They are 10", super slim, reversible, and move a TON of air. 1340CFM EACH. Currently they are wired to plug and play for an OBD1 Ford. let me know if you are interested.

This looks to be the best way around the crappy stock alt. Thanks for the info! My '84 GL will be getting this setup. Question though, did I read correct that the factory (ea81) harness can be modified to plug into this Maxima alt, or do you need a bit of harness from a junkyard Maxima? Thanks!

Too Cool

25" or 27" is the overall tire DIAMETER. And in this one case, I find that the American way of doing things actually makes sense. In all other cases regarding units of measure and such...... the "Standard" system is bogus. Metric is MUCH easier to understand.

Here is an older shot of me.... caught me under the hood of another silly car I own, and should lead to a bit of understanding as to where my username comes from... Ive been neck deep in V6 SHO Taurus' since 2001 I was topping off the AC on a road trip here. A desperate attempt at surviving a trip through the south in August. Later I found I had a cbad O-ring on the compressor.

AHA!! According to GD's thread here.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86141&highlight=stock+carb The thermo-vacuum valve simply controls the flow of vac. to the canister, as a sort of choke. i think Ill just bypass it..... Opinions?

Thanks for the help. We might be getting somewhere! Now, the other day I took a long look at the under-hood diagram And using the preformed bends in the hose that doesnt have a home, I found that it DOES line up with a T-fitting that attaches to that thermovalve. Only problem is that the T-fitting had a cap on it. So I removed the cap, and hooked the hose up. I thought I had things figured out.... Then I started the car. The motor idled a bit rough, and REALLY stumbled when you tried to rev it. So I put it back how it was, and here we are. So what does this mean? Can these thermovalves go bad? Can they be removed and cleaned? or do they just get replaced? And for the simple sake of conserving my sanity.... Im going to link to a few threads that may be of use, so I have a means of finding the threads again.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=954684 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86087 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86141&highlight=stock+carb http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=756025