Idasho

Why all this talk about funky locking/unlocking axles? All one needs is to adapt a manual locking hub setup to the rear hubs of a Subaru. Then it runs like all other 4x4 setups on the planet, except it is the rear that is getting locked out. Plus, when the hubs are unlocked the entire rear driveline isnt getting turned on the highway. Hello better MPG. So, why doesnt anyone do that?? Seriously.... why hasnt it been done?

What is everyone using for brake lines on lifted rigs? Are you having them made, or is there something available off the shelf that will bolt right in for a lifted EA81? Thanks

So there is enough room in the strut tower for these mounts?

Sorry if I missed it, but is this adaptable at all to a 2-bolt strut mount EA81?

thanks for the info.

Thats what mine came with from the factory. And is what Im running. There are still plenty of tires available in the 185/70

any good parts store can get you the proper rebuild kit. Expect to pay $40-$50

It really depends on the type of tire you are looking for. Im running Mastercraft A/S IV treads for the summer. Believe it or not, but they are the most aggressive tires I could find in stock size. For winter Im running a studded set of Hankook Zovacs

130k on my '84 GL

Thanks for the responses guys. An update though.... I just saved myself another engine pull. I was snooping around with a flashlight and my inspection mirror last night. I found the leak to be coming from the passenger side case bolt, right near the bellhousing and oil pan. I removed the bolt, hosed everything down with brake clean, slobbered some Mopar RTV on the bottom side of the head of the bolts, and put it back in. My leak has gone from 1 drip every few seconds, to 1 drio every time I park. And what is still leaking may simply be leftover oil under there, finding its way to the skid plate. Im happy!

Another reason why I snagged up a clean EA81 at first glance. My '84 GL has just 130k miles on it, and is 100% rust free. Looking at just how little I drive, Ill have this car until I die. Between 3 vehicles, the wife and I routinely drive less than 5k miles per year. The GL will be getting less than half of those. But even assuming that I drive it 3k per year, it will take me a LONG time to wear out this little car

I pre-bent the plate when I put it on. It looks silly flat Dont worry, this rig isnt going on any crazy off road adventures. It is simply too clean for me to subject it to it. I know Ill break them, but they are specifically for fog and the crazy blizzard snow storms we get. So they need to be low. That said, this GL is getting a2" lift soon. But mainly to level it out front to rear. In that photo I have the adjustable struts elevated to their max.

bad bearing/bushing. Is there any side-side play in the shaft?

For the last few months Ive been chasing an oil leak in my '84 GL. Long story short, the Rear main seal, flywheel o-ring, and oil pan are all new and stay dry. Each have been replaced, more than once now. Yet I still have a leak that drips from the rear most corner of the oil pan on the passenger side. Once the engine is up to operating temp, I get one drip every 5-6 seconds. Quite the leak. After getting it back together again the last time, only to find I still have the leak after resealing the oil pan for the 3rd time, I threw up my hands, and drove it to the dealer. They told me it was the pan.... So I had them do it. Im batting 0-5 on my attempts to fix the leak. Now the dealer took a swing and is 0-1. I still have the leak. Looking through the shop manual I have, I see that the "flywheel housing" is a separate piece from the engine case halves. Is this a common source for leaks with the EA81? It also looks like I get to reseal the pan............again. Since you have to pull the pan to remove the flywheel housing. And any tips to reseal this housing would be appreciated. Thanks.

Cool 6-lug swap! Ive been working on a low-profile roof basket for my GL:banana: Just about done.... Crappy cell-phone pic

junk yard, or possibly somebody here that is parting out a GL.

Find a parking garage, friends garage, overpass, pronto.

bolted to the hub? So it doesnt freewheel?

Double free-wheel? Where did you get the hub for that?

It is a one-touch "auto-up/auto-down" switch for the drivers window

Dude its a mile. Get a good pair of walking shoes

Mine are pretty simple. Cheap 55watt Blazer tech driving lamps set low. I thought about getting a nice set of Hellas or similar, but being down low I just know Ill break them often.

If the battery checks out okay.... Battery cables and/or starter.

If it is limited to the coolant passages, and is just surface rust there is no need to clean it up. Just run it, and treat it to a coolant flush a few hundred miles after the install.

So where again is all of that pertinent info provided by said search? This forum would be much better without the superiority complex. And honestly, you sound like a child. Perhaps you are the one that needs to grow up. This isnt elementary school, people dont judge you by who you know. If they do, then this forum has a LOT more problems than I thought. I own a 1984 GL. I use this forum for research and info. No more, no less. Dont like my post? Then dont respond. It is as simple as that.