l75eya

Figured I'd post pictures up for reference if anybody searches for water pump replacement. I'd have liked to have found some myself before I started but I gave up searching and just hopped into it. Quite an experience, that. Regardless, have at it! Removed the radiator, a/c condenser (thankfully my AC had no charge! Convenient!), fans, alternator, power steering reservoir, AC compressor, air filter housing, pulled belt tensioner, broke off my timing belt cover on the driver's side because pulling the crank pulley seemed like a real, real p.i.t.a. Probably pulled more that I'm forgetting and I'm sure because I've got no experience doing this, that I took some unnecessary steps, but live and learn. (just to show general chaos =) )

The 93 loyale we are the SECOND OWNER of! Not too surprising considering it only had 51,000 miles on it last year. The guy that had it averaged about 3,000 miles a year hahaha. My 87 GL had even less! 42,000. It looks like it sat for years as there's no mileage change for awhile. Good find!

Got all that for $50 at my local pick N pull. Apparently this is a very unpopular car in the northeast and the ones sitting in junk yards are all basically unmolested, and taking up space so I get parts off them real cheap! Anybody driving through Pennsylvania should stop in a few junkyards in Holidaysburg and grab some spare parts

Good point, didn't think of that. You're absolutely right too, I guess no matter where the needle sits on the gauge is fine, so long as it's not real close to red, and so long as it's consistent. That way if you always run 1/4 and one hot day you're creeping up to 3/4 you know that your car is running a bit warmer than it should be. These dials and measurement devices in our dashboards should be re-named Ballpark Estimations of Engine & Vehicle Information.

This is the coolest argument I have ever read online.

rust is very correct on that too, the g/f has a double row rad and it runs at 1/4 all the time. I have never seen it go past 1/4. I have an 87 GL with a single row rad. and it runs at 1/2 all the time. The Loyale with the double rad. takes longer to warm up, too. The GL warms up pretty quick.

Grind it till ya find it haha obviously jk.

Miles, you have any AOSM videos that detail that job?

Thanks for the responses lol, I tell you what, all in all these are magnificent cars to own, but when they do require what little maintenance they just might come to require over time, it is not good to not have the money to fix it haha. This tapping sucks, this car was perfect for the longest time. So low milage too! But thanks for easing my nerves about anything particularly bad occurring that the CEL might have been warning. I'll just electrical tape fix it for now Really, really keeping my fingers crossed that when I get the oil pump and gaskets/seals replaced, that cures the tick. Oh and Mr. Fox, I've been checking out the art of subaru maintenance videos. They are awesome, props to you for taking your own time to produce them. Very, very helpful stuff.

Thank you Dr. Will see what sort of fun the car throws at me next! Just got first snowfall and the thermostat temperature control gear got stuck. Driving around in ice and snow shivering, wiping ice off the inside of the windshield from the condensation in my breath. WAS AWESOME!

Hi all, I'm sure you guys noticed me running around the boards feeding my brain with as much info about the tod as possible lol, still haven't gotten the oil pump changed out yet, and it's been about 3 k of ticking driving now and the check engine light started coming on intermittently, so I looked up how to pull the codes and I've got; in regular mode (no jumpers connected) ign on eng off code 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit and that's it. in the mode with the white jumpers connected (stored codes) I've got 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit My amateur guess is that the engine is just generally running kinda shi**y through this t.o.d. thing and it's starting to upset some sensors (maybe mixture is bad, real rich possible *shrugs*) but that's just my amateur guess which is why I'm posting up here! I'm wondering what the community thinks is going on here, and also, I'm curious about codes 11 and 13, they are the same. Are they for specific cylinders? Thanks much! Keeping my fingers crossed Old Ben makes it through this ordeal until we can get him fixed proper!

does it go away if you apply the brakes?

I read somewhere in my haynes manual there is a way to adjust the clearance of the vehicle at all four corners. I think it's adjustable, just not sure how to do it. Others can correct me if I'm wrong.

Or the tri-state area in general? I have some extensive work needs to be done that's out of my scope and would like to go to a mechanic that knows these engines, rather than any of the local mechanics I know who are good, granted, but not with boxer engines where they are usually stumped and pissed off by my car haha. Anything around nyc, philly, anywhere in jersey? I'd even go to central PA to get good work done =\

Checked my oil this morning = ) It's low.

dude...ned sounds bad-rump roast lol I gotta get a glasspack. Anybody know of a GL with flowmasters welded in? I wonder how that sounds...

Lmao I hear ya

This is what I was really curious about because it's something that hasn't been remedied for about a month now, and I'm not sure how soon it will be addressed, so that was a concern of mine. Takes a little pressure off to know it's not really causing any adverse harm though. This is the sole mode of transport for now (and for years to come if she keeps up with the storied subaru reliability) and she's crucial so I'm relieved a bit lol. The little trooper has brought us to Canada and back, and just ticked off 75,000 miles. = ) (No pun intended haha)

Still driving around with a relentlessly chattering engine! Hope to get the seals and have them all replaced asap, but for now...nothing bad has happened. It is LOUD though.

= \ This valve chattering seems to be a real plague for these engines, huh? It's a damn shame, we have this 93 Loyale we picked up last year that only had 52,000 miles on it at the time. Here we are one year 2 months later and that little car has taken us all over the country and to canada and back. 23,000 miles later in one year. So it now has 75,000 miles on it, and the entire car around it is solid, but that tick is getting very very frustrating = \ btw rust, awesome picture. And name.

You, my friend, are the man! Thank you so much!

GD, yeah, that's what I've gathered so far. Read a few posts where you went into detail about the issue, one of which I think was theorizing whether or not there actually was aeration going on at all if I remember correctly. That's besides the point though, I'm hoping oil pump seals do the trick. I think I've read in a few places around the forum that this is usually the issue 90% of the time, unless an engine is really worn out. Well, this or the pump itself. I'm hoping it's the former. Thanks for the advices!

I will check that site out, thank you = ) Not looking forward to replacing them, believe me lol

That's another thing I've been playing with is oil viscosity. I've got 20/30 in there now, just to see how it sounds. It developed the tick with 10/30, I might try real thin oil now instead of real heavy oil..

Don't mean to thread-jack but can I ask you guys a quick question? I was wondering (because money is tight) if it's okay to still run the engine for awhile while it's ticking. Granted...sometimes it's ticking pretty bad, I'll be honest. People look at the car and me like I'm crazy as if I'm driving it with no oil in it kind of loud sometimes. But what kind of chances am I taking by continuing to drive the car like this until I can fix it proper?