l75eya

are you east or west coast? I know a guy in Pennsylvania.

ooo! It's a subaru! haha:clap:

Just cured Ben's ticking by replacing his oil pump. I drove for approximately 10,000 miles with the lifters ticking, sometimes REALLY LOUDLY. I could hear the car coming from 2 blocks away occasionally when the GF was driving. Long story short, 10,000 miles of that, put in a new oil pump and the car sounds good as new. In my experience with the tick, don't sweat it. I just wouldn't do a lot of high speed highway driving, but in terms of just using your car, it's gonna be loud, but it's not causing any long term damage, just a short term (until you fix it) gas mileage / performance hit.

So I've searched and searched. It's hard to find things on small words through search, though I've found a few things about how to remove and clean the egr valve, which I have done. My check engine light came on while he was experiencing his bout with the tick of death. It was oxygen sensor and EGR valve associated. I've since put a new oil pump in and all new seals and the T.O.D. is gone and Ben is happy again. However he still has a CEL. (Code 34) I've taken the EGR valve off and blown out / vacummed the intake passages on both the manifold and the valve itself. Not too much soot in there, but a bit. I reinstalled the egr and tested it. At idle, if I push in the EGR the engine starts fluttering, so I know that the valve itself is okay, correct? I've tried clearing the CEL by connecting both green and white connectors under the hood. With the engine running with these connectors both connected, my CEL is OFF. I let it run quite awhile like this. Disconnected them and the CEL is back on with a vengance. No matter what I do, I can't get the light to go off. I checked what codes are thrown in every combination of connectors with the car running and not running with the ignition on. They are as follows: Car running; Both connected: code 7 (which is not listed in the USRM) White connected only: code 34 Green connected only: code 7 Neither connected: code 34 Car not running ignition on: Both: 7 White: 34 Green: 7 Neither: 34 I'm at a loss =\ any help guys? BTW for those not familiar with Ben he is a SPFI 93 Loyale

hahaha that formula is epic!

So long as you jump positive to positive and ground to a ground on the body of the car or chassis, I'm pretty sure there should be no risk of damage..

Is it a hatchie?

Got those cup holders that hang in the door for the loyale! Gotta find some for my GL now

I have this really super rare edition GL that when you look at the back of it in a mirror it instantly becomes an LG. Life's good.

what a shame

Wish I could help you, but don't get discouraged. Somebody will chime in with something helpful eventually, just gotta be patient for the gurus to take notice.

STICKY! haha

Good luck with your timing belts. If you need a quick reference, MilesFox on here has some excellent how to videos on youtube, the one for T-belts can be found here: . If I were you, I would leave the outer timing belt covers off. Most members here leave them off as well, they are more of a nuisance than anything. It's personal preference though. Leaving them off will make any future work required much, much easier.

+1 I'm thinking about removing my A/C altogether as well. What a waste of space, power, and weight.

And about the reservoir, yeah, it's really easy. Just undo the two hoses, and take out the two bolts and voila, resevoir is off. you can try putting some sealant around it if that's where your leak is. Or maybe the bolts are just loose:brow: haha good luck.

Tell her you have a really rare Chevrolet Mustang you'll trade her for it.

As I was once in the same boat, and a fellow member here came to my rescue, I do the same for you my friend. Part #'s here: http://www.subaruworld.net/parts.htm And if you need a bit of a guide with pictures to the process, I did a quick write-up when I replaced my oil pump last week which can be found here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128964

Gonna use a bread bag on my rear axle boot. Times are hard.

I don't think you can sell dogs on ebay dude. Whether they're standard OR metric.

Not a problem at all, just link back here if you can miles. =)

Got some time to tackle the Loyale's tick of death. Got a break in the weather too! 55 - 60 degrees in mid december! w00t This is my first write-up, and I know it's written a bit half-assedly lol, but I figure it's a good way to psyche yourself up and prepare before taking on the job. It is a bit of a job. I'm not too experienced working this deep into engines but I did it and I'm damn proud of myself and loved the work involved. Pictures are at the end of the write up. Anyway, the method I used to do this is going to render your air conditioner completely useless, so, if you don't mind that (does it really blow that cold anymore anyway?) feel free to do this up on your own. If not, then you're going to not want to remove the A/C Condenser and are going to have to somehow work around it. I removed it and it gave me an incredibly wider range of motion/freedom of space to get things done on the engine. And so; Put the car somewhere and bust out the tools and hydrations and tunes. My equipment list was -Tool-set (Socket set + box wrenches) -Blanket to cover ground under car -Bucket to catch Oil -Bucket to catch antifreeze -aluminum can to catch power steering fluid -18" 1/2" drive breaker bar with 22mm socket (for crank pulley) -Big rump roast PVC pipe (about 14 inches long) to fit over breaker bar for more torque -channel locks - 's -Radio Prop the hood up vertical ala MilesFox by pulling your prop rod out at the base and resetting it in a hole on the pass. side strut tower. Get your grille unscrewed and pull it out of the way Disconnect & remove battery + alternator Disconnect the two plugs and remove the electric fan on the pass. side of the radiator. Be very careful not to gouge the radiator while removing this. You can try and remove the four bolts holding the driver's side fan onto the water pump pulley now too if you like. I've had it come off easy and it's cool to get it out of the way early, but if for some reason your fan bolts won't budge, just skip it and wait till later to get a better grip. Disconnect lines and remove power steering resevoir Start disconnecting radiator lines, I pulled the driver's side hose off the water pump feed pipe. use a bucket to catch what little coolant leaks out. Then you're good to remove the passenger side hose as well. If you have an automatic disconnect the transmission lines, there are two of them naturally, and they are small and hard to see (and a pain to pull off). Removing the two bolts that hold the radiator in can help you to move the whole radiator around and get a better grip on those trans lines. As noted previously, I pulled the condenser and radiator out. To access all the bolts I had to remove the underbody panel that goes across the front of the car. I also had to then remove the hood latch and the vertical support bracket. Before removing the condenser bleed the system of all pressure by removing the black dust cap on the a/c line coming off the compressor and push in the pin to let all of the A/C charge release (into a safe container of course, so as not to hurt the atmosphere ) This is about a good time to take a break and enjoy some more You can pull the A/C condenser out from the front of the vehicle, I got it out by angling it and pulling it down behind and under the bumper. You can pull the radiator straight up and out, just be mindful of the hoses still attached to it snagging on things, and be very mindful of the water pump driven fan if you didn't take it off earlier. Once all of that crap is out of the way it's time to start digging in. Seek out all the bolts for the air conditioner/ alternator bracket and then hang the whole thing up and out of the way (see pictures) remove the belt tensioners, take off both belts. Get that fan off finally (now you should have no excuse for not being able to get it to stay still and get at the bolts) It's time to tackle that crank pulley. I hope it's as easy for you as it was for me as this (being inexperienced at all this of course) was the most intimidating thing to me. I just popped open that little cover on the torque converter / flywheel, and found the I think 12 mm bolt on there by turning the crank. Once I found that bolt, I put the box end of a wrench on it, slowly turned the crank until it was up against the bellhousing, and then went to town with the breaker bar on the crank bolt. It took a bit of muscling, but it came loose. Using the PVC pipe on the breaker bar helped big time and I don't think it's possible to do it by hand without some extra torque like the pipe supplies. Once the bolt was out, the pulley came right off and now it was time to get those damn timing belt covers off (for good) Once you've gotten the timing belt covers off, they make decent frisbees so take a frisbee break for now if you like. It's pretty straight-forward from here now, loosen (NOT REMOVE) the bolts holding the timing belt tensioners, take off the timing belts. Now you have access to all the oil pump bolts. Remove the bolts, put a bucket underneath the engine, and pull the pump gently outward. STRAIGHT out. Now you're on your own to figure out how to put it all back together haha hope this was helpful guys. Thanks for all the information as always and whenever I can, I'll help out. If anybody is going through with this job, just send me a PM if you like. The vehicle being operated on in this procedure is the g/f's 93 SPFI automatic FWD Loyale(Left. White fender) Benjamin (Ben) Hooptie . He developed the tick of death about 10,000 miles ago. He ran pretty weak and got horrible (for him) gas mileage through-out his ailment. He is now at 78,800 miles and running good as new = ) Radiator, A/C condenser, Alternator, battery, fan all removed. A/C strung up with bungie cord. Notice the amount of space to work with all these things removed. Lots of access to get to everything you need to do. If you don't care about your A/C, this is definitely the way to work. Crank Pulley removed. Timing belt covers off. Belts were replaced only 15,000 miles ago. Old oil pump visible and trembling with fear. Driver's side. Freshly installed. Be careful that the mickey mouse gasket does not shift while you are sliding the new pump into position. In order to get the oil pump to line up properly, I had to break off a small piece of plastic from the still in place inner timing belt covers. This broken plastic is visible just to the right of the very bottom right of the oil pump. I also removed a small piece of rubber that was above the very top left part of the oil pump (where there is now a small gap between it and the block. DO NOT KING KONG TIGHTEN THE OIL PUMP BOLTS. They WILL snap easily. Snug them down and then give them a little bit more oomph. That's it. Hope this is helpful for some people. Sorry I rambled a bit but....i'm a write up noobie haha. Going to bed now. cheers all and Yaaaaaaaaaay! No more ticking!!! haha!

Okay, got some pictures. Didn't shoot too many as I was just trying to get the job done, but it's all pretty straightforward. I'm going to write up a brief guide to this and post the pictures in a new thread to be linked here as well when done. Write up and pictures can be found here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1068742#post1068742

This...is...AWESOME! Totally participating!

Mine had been previously adjusted and the front is up high, which was cool at one point, the whole car sat up real high, but now my rear shocks are absolutely shot and the rear is sagging, so now it always feels like i'm driving up a hill =P Thank you for the advice, I'm going to hit the back with PB blast right now lol

Be very very careful you do not overtighten those bolts and snap them though. Not fun.