Cyfun

Nevermind, dealer had one for $50, had to go there anyway for a thermostat. Kit came yesterday, had to run around town to find new bolts for the idlers. Didn't think I could use normal hex bolts cause it didn't look like my socket would fit in the hole, but nobody had M10x1.25 flange bolts, so i got normal bolts and luckily my 17mm socket barely fit. Got everything replaced, belt on and aligned. Hand rotated it and markes lined up. Got radiator back in and coolant, went for a drive, ran like crap. Tore it apart again today and the crank was 1 tooth off. Corrected it and now it runs great. One concern, tho, the new water pump is pretty noisy. I'm assuming its the water pump. Is this a common issue?

Looking for a replacement center timing cover for a phase 1 EJ22 SOHC if anyone has one. Dealer wants $56. Not bad, but I'm cheap.

The scrap yards can probably cut stuff for ya for a few bucks. As far as drilling and welding go, prolly on your own. Best bet is to have a friend with machine shop or exhaust shop access or who has the equipment at home.

I wish the enclosed reflected LED setups weren't so crazy expensive. The bulbs themselves cost very little, and since they don't have to worry about incandescent bulbs putting out crazy heat, they can engineer the enclosures much more easily and tightly. I'm tempted to just butcher some existing plastic reflectors out of flashlights or car headlights and wire in 5mm LEDs or some CREE LEDS. Would cost me a fraction of what these folks want.

Might not hurt to check the battery terminal connections and grounds. I always have electrical issues when the temperature drops and everything thermally contracts. Normally, if the battery terminals were corroded or werent making good contact to the connectors, the car would still run off the alternator. But if there were a problem just upstream from that, killing or weakening the flow, that could cause it to stall. Could also be fuel pump wiring, too. I once had a loose connector for a fuel pump fuse, would get worse in the winter. Although the other folks are probably right about the dizzy and ignition system. Whether the tach moves or not is the key.

Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on hoses, keep an eye out for a naturally aspirated ea82 motor or prepare for an EJ22 swap. You could probably find an ea82 motor for $200. Or if you've got the cash, WRX swap. That Foreign Engines JDM importer in Washington state has STI engine swap setups with engine, trans, wiring harness and ECU for about $3000 shipped.

The pump harness? You mean right at the pump under the trunk? Have you tested for pressure under the hood? Dunno if these cars have a pressure relief valve, but if not, unhook a fuel line and see what happens. Can also always try running jumper wires directly to fuel pump.

The lower gearing would give you better acceleration. Wouldn't gear you low enough to decrease top speed, though. And I doubt you spend much time at 100mph in that.

Grats! Now we need some vids of driving action!

Great idea in theory, but it seems like the layers of glass would scratch the hell out of each other. Easier to just put on a pair of sunglasses. :cool:

Mid 80s Accord calipers supposedly work, but they're like $80 each. Probably better off getting 200sx or 240sx calipers and making a custom bracket that allows for better clearance of the ebrake mechanism.

I know, arrows indicate TCD. These pics were to show how the cams lined up in relation to the crank. I have some earlier pics of the hash marks being off.

Right on, I may go that route. Apparently Gates actually makes PCI's products, they're just a slightly cheaper line. TheImportExperts has a complete timing overhaul kit for about $200. Looks like a great deal, cept I just replaced my accessory belts.

Their PCI kits on eBay are about $100 shipped. Mizumo Auto on Ebay has the same kits for about $93.50 shipped. Neither include a waterpump. The Gates kit without waterpump is $130 shipped at Amazon, and with waterpump $160 shipped at Amazon. Is Gates worth the few extra bucks? Supposedly they make the parts for OEMs.

I haven't pulled the timing gears, but I'll check now that you mention it. Crank looks fine, at least. Not bad, not great. Fairly dry, at least: Idler by the water pump: Crank at TDC: Driver's side timing gear, almost looks like it's counter-clockwise 1 tooth: Passenger side timing gear, sorry for the blurry pic, but you can see the arrow at 10 oclock:

Previous owner installed the engine. No idea if or when the belt was done before. Got the cover off. Looks like the crank pulley wore a big gouge into it, probably let in all sorts of good ************ when I was chasing puddles. The toothed idler by the water pump has literally lost its marbles. Doesn't look like the tensioner is leaking. Tension doesn't seem bad, but if stuff is seizing on me, that could explain it all. Looks like if the crank is at TDC, the drivers side lines up, but the passenger side is late. Makes sense.

Right on. I believe it's out of a 93 Leg. I have to pull the crank pulley to get through the cover, don't I? Woot, impact wrench time! Shopping for a new belt kit right now. Any recommendations? Considering replacing the water pump while I'm in there. Heh, Napa has a kit for $740. Must be made of gold and copper. Oreilly has one for about $180. But I just found Amazon has a nice Gates kit including water pump for about $160. These timing belts don't seem that difficult to replace, though. Would you guys recommend just replacing what's broken rather than going to town?

I looked at the CPS sensor and it seemed fine, so I pulled my radiator to get a better look at the timing gears. They look like they're a few teeth off! Each pulley has a notch and an arrow, and if I line the passenger side up vertically, the driver's side is noticably ahead clockwise. By those diagrams, the marks should always be clocked the same, right? How the hell could I have skipped ahead without breaking the belt? Edit: Pics

Found it. Thanks!

I have the covers off both timing gears. Are there marks on there somewhere? Its so close to the radiator, hard to see.

So last week my EJ22 swapped GL wagon started running really poorly. Had almost no power, was shaking violently, felt like it was missing on at least one cylinder. It still drove so I continued on, but later it started making this high pitch squealing noise. Definitely sounded like metal, and possibly rotational cause it was fairly continuous. So I had my dad drag me home, haven't had time to mess with it til now. Won't start at all at this point, doesn't seem to want to fire. The two drivers' side spark plugs look fine, but the passenger side ones are pretty black. Plugs and wires are only a year old and look fine, and the coil is definitely dishing out spark. Seems to be getting fuel. Thought it might be a head gasket, but I'm not seeing any oil in coolant or vice versa. Oil was last changed about a month ago. I did a leakdown test, and the front passenger cyl was at like 60%, the back pass was at like 40%, but the drivers side ones were also at like 50%. I might have not done it right, cause it's hard to see TDC on the drivers' side cylinders. I tried doing just a compression test but my ************ty Harbor Break tester wouldn't get very tight and just said 30psi for each cylinder. When it did run but was misfiring, it seemed louder than usual, and I got some occasional backfiring, so I was originally thinking exhaust valves. Engine only has about 160k miles. Seems odd that both passenger side cylinders are completely black. Maybe the passenger side timing gear skipped a tooth? Timing belt and gears look fine. The engine is out of a '93 Legacy so it's OBD-I. I'll try and dig the ECU out of the dash so I can pull some codes. Tempted to just find a used engine or a wrecked Legacy or order up a JDM EJ22 for $800 cause I don't have the time to wongleflute around with this. Anyone have any brilliant ideas, or perhaps an engine?

2.5" is the way to go. If you wanna be a lil loud, try for a glasspack, otherwise a good cheapo Thrush turbo muffler has a good rumble.

Don't go with a turbo exhaust unless you have a turbo. Naturally aspirated cars actually need a bit of back-pressure. Most folks I know with an EA81, EA82, or EJ22 don't go larger than 2.5" exhaust. You could probably find an exhaust shop that would make you a basic 2.5" catback system with a glass pack or cheapo Thrush muffler for a reasonable cost. Or you could try and replace the cat with a cheap glass pack, but then risk having exhaust getting into your car. Even with no leaks, I get a bit in my car just cause I have the shift boot off.

That makes sense. Glad to hear it's coming along. Why a Turbo 400 though? Would have thought you'd want a good stick shift, or at least to stick with the original trans for that engine.

Excellent idea! Might have to get creative with any bent suspension components, but at least you'd have your car drivable again!