hooziewhatsit

It may have something to do with your PCV valve. I recall there was a problem with them and sharp right hand turns. I'll see what I can find... Edit: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-712.html

one of the better things you could do is try to find a snowy parking lot and just play around in it. Loose control on purpose, then try to get it back. See what happens when you hit the brakes hard going straight, etc. If a cop asks what you're doing, just say you're learning how to drive in the snow :-) (I haven't tried that one yet, it might work) Have fun :-)

thanks for all the help guys, on me all around :-) Skip, my coil is in her car right now and it runs fine. She took it to work today :-) I think I'll try putting my first set of plugs back in to see if I can reproduce the problem. Thanks again, I learned a lot while troubleshooting this thing. -Dave :banana:

YAY, it started :-) Not sure what I did though... Charged the battery back, tried starting with the throttle to the floor, and it finally fired. It doesn't sound that good right now, but I might just not be used to it without the exhaust, Skip, yea, I did check the drivers side with the old plugs on my wifes coil, and it seemed to be fine.

Ok, put in an old set of plugs I managed to find in my toolkit. It tries to fire now, but only once and occasionally (good sign?) I put my entire coil bracket in my wifes car last night and it started just fine. I checked the voltage at the positive terminal on the coil and it was 12V I disconnected the exhaust after the first (empty) cat, just to make sure that too much back pressure isn't causing it. and I just charged the battery for the third time :-) hmm.... what else...

on my GL, IIRC, the antenna on the stock radio had about a 10" (?) extension on it, then it went to a normal connector. I believe there was enough slack in the cable to pull the normal connection forward to plug into my stereo. Also, when I put my stereo in, I had to run new wires to the speakers. I believe most aftermarket stereos require 2 wires for each speaker, whereas the stock radio tied one of them to ground. You should be able to just run new wires from your new harness to the connectors as they go through into the door. good luck edit: here's a link where they talk about what to do with the trip computer http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16377

yep, changed the whole thing. I also made sure the metal was clean on the car and the bracket. when it warms up a bit this morning I'm going to double check and make sure I have gas to the engine, and spark on the drivers side.

that wouldn't be something as simple as a fuse would it?

Just swapped the coil from my wifes car into mine. Same thing. It'll crank but not start. Put my coil in her car, and it starts right up. hmm... thanks for the help so far -Dave

yea, that sounds like the blower motor. On the 82s, there are a few screws that hold it in place. good luck

ok, I checked the timing belt alignment, it looks fine. the only error code it gives me is 34, which is the EGR solenoid or circuit. The problem with it is I took it out a while ago :-) Edit: Double checked to make sure I'm getting spark. I only checked the passenger side since my battery is almost dead (again). They both had spark. Edit 2: The little nugget thing in the cap is there

at 20 BTDC, the rotor points right at #1 on the cap and the hill holder spring, at 0 BTDC, it points right at the hole the cap screws into. around 4:30 when my wife gets home, I can try swapping the coil out of her car (91 loyale) and seeing if that's the problem. thanks for the ideas so far -Dave

update - I thought my timing belts may have slipped. With the flywheel at 20 BTDC, the rotor points at cylinder #2. With the flywheel at the three timing marks, the rotor points between #2 and #4. I assume this is how it should be? I pulled the tbelt covers off and they look like they haven't slipped. I have also verified that both cams are spinning with the belts. Should the rotor point at #1 when the flywheel is at 20 BTDC? \me runs off to double check Edit: As I turn the engine over, 20 BTDC points at either #1 or #2, which should be correct.

so I should see a very small spark as compared to a big spark? I just tried that, got a good sized ( I guess) orange spark on about an 1/8th inch gap to ground. I checked all the fuses a couple days ago, but double checked them just now. They're all fine. If I can find a ride, I can probably get a whole new coil from the local junkyard for about $20.

Since I've had trouble with the rotor screw in the past, I labeled all the wires so I would put them back correctly. Just in case, I found this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15230&highlight=firing+order and double checked the order. According to that thread, everything is correct I may have some old wires around somewhere I could try... oh yea, the plugs, cap, rotor & wires were replaced 12,000 miles ago. The plugs didn't look too bad when I pulled them. thanks, -Dave ps, yay, it's trying to snow now :-) Edit: just checked all the wires again, making sure they were connected to both the cap and the spark plugs. the resistance on three are around 5Kohm, the resistance on the long wire going to SP1 is around 18Kohm. Still no starty...

88 GL, 5 spd d/r Cranks, but won't start. problem started when after I packed the car for a trip (of course) and tried to start it. It didn't crank. Swapped the battery with a different one and it would crank, but not start. It was acting like it wasn't getting spark. The day before, I had replaced the cap & rotor. Just to check, I put the old cap & rotor back on, but nothing changed. Since I got back from the trip, I've done - Recharged the old battery, now it cranks - I pulled one spark plug to see if it was getting spark, and it was. I don't have my assistant currently, so I can't easily check the rest. - I pulled the spark plugs to check them, and one came out with gas on it. The exhaust also smells strongly of gas while cranking. - I made sure they weren't any blockages in the intake - I thought my timing belts may have slipped. With the flywheel at 20 BTDC, the rotor points at one of the spark plugs. With the flywheel at the three timing marks, the rotor points between two plugs. I assume this is how it should be? I pulled the tbelt covers off and they look like they haven't slipped. - I checked the resistance in my coil, and got: Primary: 1.1 ohm Secondary: 17.9 Kohm My book lists Primary: .84 to 1.01 ohm Secondary: 8 to 12 Kohm Could the coil be part of the problem, since neither of my resistances are within range of the 'book', especially the secondary coil. My grandpa suggested unhooking the exhaust, since too much back pressure could make it not start. Last september I had the element in the first cat come loose. I cut the cat open, removed it, then welded it shut again. I suppose pieces of it could have blocked the second cat, but there is still some air coming out the exhaust. I would check this, but the car died on an incline, and I can't quite squeeze under it, nor can I jack it up. Any other ideas? I don't have any, besides a possible faulty coil. Thanks in advance, -Dave ps, working in the snow when it's 30 F and breezy outside is fun

Yay, the ECU codes article now has colors for the connectors :-) That was about the one thing I couldn't find anywhere. Thanks a bunch... Now I just need to get my car running:banghead: so I can check the codes

Lol, didn't like it down here? Sure, the town isn't that much to look at, but there are some good people down here :-) btw, there doesn't happen to be anyone else on the board down here with a nice heated garage?

Where are the pictures from? Is there any way we can see some thumbnails of the pictures?

Correct, the car should 'cut' the engine to keep it at the set speed. However, it should do so smoothly, without any jerking or surging. He had a 98 Legacy that worked fine, and all the other cars we have work like it should also. He's taken it back to the dealer several times, and they know it's a problem, they just haven't been able to fix it. He asked the dealer to try it in a different car of the same year/model, and it had the same problem, so the dealer does know about it.

Hey all, My grandpa has an 05 legacy 5 speed with a cruise control problem. It works fine unless he is going down hill, at which time it acts like the engine is being starved for fuel; that is, it jerks/surges while maintaining the speed. The dealer took a different car out and had the same problem. Any ideas? Thanks in advance

Also, when you have the hub off, check the splines on it. They should have a uniform flat top on all of them. If they are sharp at all, that could be the source of some noises. I just had to fix that on mine.... good luck

You could also take off the main fan and replace it with an electric one. I plan on doing this to my car sometime after new years. I've heard it gives a good boost also. There's some extra wiring involved to make it turn on with the key, but it shouldn't be too bad I think.

My parents use a guy just east of Sandy that really knows his stuff also. Although that would be a bit of a drive for you. If you're interested, let me know

Update: Found a redline reseller in Klamath Falls where I got some of the 75x90NS for just over $9 a bottle. Put that it, and I can finally shift again Even when it's cold :D If anyone in the medford/grants pass area needs/wants the number to this reseller, I can get it for you. He didn't have the NS in stock, but was able to order it for no extra cost. Thanks for the help and solution! -Dave