hooziewhatsit

have you checked your fuses yet? IIRC, they have it setup so your dash lights are on the same circuit as your tail lights, so that way you'll know if your tail lights are out. That'd be first thing to check. If it is blown, and blows again after you replace, then we can troubleshoot some more

Is it a 36 or 32mm? I thought it was a 32, but I'm not sure. I just have a big crescent wrench with a four foot cheater I use to tighten them. Might want to make sure before you buy a $15 socket.

a cheap thing to check before you get into the bearings is the axle nut. Make sure it's really tight, since if it's loose it can make a nasty grinding sound. But if it does turn out to be the bearings, follow the directions above good luck

Most mornings down here everything, including the mirrors, are covered in frost and require scraping off. A couple days ago, the pivot point on my electric mirror decided to break, probably from all the scraping done on it. Duct tape will work for a while to fix it until I get to the junkyard... heated mirrors would be awesome.

I've always been curious what these actually do... Do they just help keep the rear window clear, or?

I just had to replace the 02 sensor on my wifes car. Got the Bosch universal from Napa. I just used a crescent wrench with breaker bar to get it out and put the new one in. Although it was in a place that was very easy to get to. good luck

could be either the bearings, the axle, the hub wearing out, or (hopefully) just a loose axle nut. Take your hubcap off and check the big axle nut. If you can move it, it's a bad thing. If you can't, take the cotter pin out and try to torque it down some more. These things need a lot of torque put on them.

what's wrong with the wipers? are they going too slow, are they not making good contact with the window? For the defroster, what fan speed do you have it on? Do all the fan settings work? for the rear defroster, does it work at all? A (semi) common problem with it is the ground wire coming undone in the back. A simple continuity check from the right side of the window to ground will test this. If it's not connected to ground, pull the cover off the rear and look for a black wire just hanging not connected to anything. Find a ground for it and it should work again.

there are a couple XTs in the local JY down here. Need something?

what kind of shape are the tires in? I've heard even a quarter inch difference between front & back can cause binding. You could try driving backwards about 10-20 feet next time you change to see if switches any easier/better.

There are some suggestions above in the USRM. One is to cut the bottom out of the air box, get bigger exhaust, take the main drive fan off and replace it with an electric one, etc. good luck

a cheap check would be to replace the fuel filter also.

Does it throw any error codes? If the O2 sensor is bad, it'll run rich. Not sure about that rich though... just a thought

My silver wagon hides dirt so well that I've only washed it once in almost 5 years

how much have you checked the timing belts? It could be the driver side one slipped a tooth or two, putting everything out of timing. This sounds strangly like my problem here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27920 I ended up pulling the plugs, waiting about 10 minutes, putting other dry plugs in, then it finally started. good luck

sounds like bad ground issues.

Pictures like this? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26770

So it sounds like this solution makes it so the fan is only on when you want it on? Or did I miss something? Just curious.

correct, I think... You should be able to turn the key to 'run', then check the voltage on the yellow wire that plugs into the fan. This should read 12v. If it doesn't try the other one If neither of them are hot, then the problem is there. If you want, I can scan the picture I drew showing the circuit.

If it's not the thermo switch then what is it? Does the fan not have 12v going to it? Basically, the fan always has 12V to it, and the thermo switch pulls it to ground, turning the fan on. I actually just reverse engineered their wiring so I could rig up a proper switch for my fan. My idea is to rig a relay shorting the thermo switch, and having a switch on the dash activate the relay. That way I can manually turn it on, or change it back to auto.

<dumb question> Ok, so if Will got 161 and the wheels, and approx. 230 at the crank, does that mean my stock GL wagon with 90 HP only gets about 15 hp at the wheels (at least it feels like that sometimes)? </dumb question> Nevertheless, great job there... makes me want to start doing stuff to my car :-) time & money = no where in site

maybe try taking the rails off and putting some gasket goo under them to fill in any space that's there? That might stop the rattle if you think that's where it's coming from

I recently discovered that my dash clock was only pulling about 6-9mA. if something is pulling 250mA (quarter amp) I'd say something's wrong... unless you did the test with the overhead lights on. You can start pulling fuses to see where it's going also.

I'll bump this thread up with an update: Anyways, while trying to get the vacuum hoses off to clean them to try and solve my defrost problem, I broke something off the vacuum canister. Replaced it with one from the junkyard, and now my defrost works like it should It does not blow back at me during acceleration or under load.

actually... now that I hear more about it, I think my GL does the same thing when it's cold. usually in second gear, around 1500 rpms, I have to be light on the pedal to make it accelerate. I have a new rotor and cap, the plugs and wires are fine. I'm thinking I might have a small intake manifold leak, due to some other problems I've been having (heater vents changing under load). wonder if that has anything to do with it