hooziewhatsit

welcome to the board that car has drum brakes on the rear, you should be able to do a search for rear brake swap, or something similar and find some information about that.

when I put my speakers in I had to do a completely custom job. ie, for the fronts, I cut the metal out of the door to make room, then mounted the speakers in the door panel. For the rears, I again had to trim the door to make them fit, and I think I had to drill my own holes for it also. good luck

From the USRM linked above: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 I assume you mean 7 long, then 3 short blinks? that would be 73, which would be Ignition Pulse System ?? Hopefully someone else can shed some light on what that means :-)

uhh, I don't think there should be a way for the pad to fall out... if it just wore down weird you should've heard the metal on the pads indicating they're getting low... odd for sure

just thinking out loud... wonder if it has anything to do with the relay to downshift when you fully depress the throttle. Does it give you any codes about the O2 sensor? with mileage like that it sure sounds like a bad sensor, and it could be related to the hesitation problem.

what kind of transmission does it have?

I *heard* from a friend there was one in a junkyard over here. I can't say what condition at all it was in though.

Could it be something in the struts/suspension then? It sounds like you've replaced everything else on that side. Just a thought. is it worse when you're on gravel vs. pavement? Take a jump and let us know if the noise stops once you leave the ground (or not)

Just to clarify, you can hear it at highway speeds until you make a left hand turn? The only thing I can think of would be the axle nuts. I've had similar noises which went away after I tightened them down. Although you mentioned you torqued them already... How much torque did you put on them?

IIRC, there are plenty in a you-pull-it over here in Klamath Falls. They'd probably charge about $10 for one.

how old is your fuel filter? A bad batch of gas can clog them right up. Just to clarify, it's fine sometimes, then other times it hesitates? During the same drive, or different drives?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 You could have him pull the codes real quick from there. I'm not sure where the ECU is mounted on that car though... On my GL and Loyale they're on the steering column. I have a friend who drives his car around with a flashing CEL all the time. Depending on the codes it pulls would tell us whether he needs to get it fixed now or later. good luck

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25637&highlight=rotary seems like a lot of work, but would be pretty cool in the end

you could also pick up an OEM subaru radiator cap. Silly as it may seem, I got a new one for my car and my temps went down radically. Like they mention above, I'd also check the thermostat, new coolant, etc.

Hey, for the first couple, if the alignment doesn't help, I think I'd check the engine/tranny mounts and make sure they're still alright. I'd imagine they could cause vibration/blown axles pretty easily. 3. Heat gauge in the middle is just fine. 4. I have no experience with autos, but have you tried the basic tuneup stuff, ie, new cap, rotor, plugs, wires? they helped my car when I first did them after who knows how many miles. 6. I've heard of people having real little holes in some of the coolant lines on the top of the engine. They leak about a cup a week, but little enough that it evaporates off the top of the block before hitting the ground. good luck.

On my 88 GL, I had to remove the kick panel below the glove box to get to the hinges for the glove box. Those hinges have a couple screws each IIRC that you take out, then the glove box should come right out. You may have to sqeeze the top in a bit to get it out. I would assume they are similar between the two models. good luck

I just recently removed my main fan while debugging a problem... I've noticed that the needle goes a little higher than it did before, even though it's usually well below freezing here. Before too long I plan on either swapping in a dual core rad I have, or adding another electric fan to it. However, if you're not having overheating problems, I'd say stick with what you have.

I'm not sure about the mixing, however, I just recently put 100% redline 75w90NS in, and it's made a huge difference in cold shifting, and even shifting while warm.

awesome, thanks a lot, I haven't used those kinds of thermocouples much \me runs off to do some research :-)

Skip, can I ask how you got your sensor into the oil pan? (You can't tease like that without giving any details ). I was thinking of drilling and tapping a hole in the side of it to mount a normal coolant temp sensor. Only problem with that... I'm not sure how thick the metal is on the oil pan, and if it failed, well, dead engine comes to mind... I'm also contemplating taking a coolant sensor, sticking it in a pan with water, and just recording the temp/resistance as it warms up. thanks for the ideas

WOT = ? My GL does the same thing with the heater controls; Defrost under load blows through the lower vents. I'm sure I don't have a blown headgasket, so could this still be a bad intake manifold gasket? I'll check the vacuum lines tomorrow once my wife gets back from work. thanks for the ideas... I was going to post a new thread until I found this one. -Dave

I presume from parts that could be gathered from a junkyard? I wouldn't mind adding one to my car... Although if all else fails I could probably just design my own.

Since I recently graduated with a degree in computer hardware engineering tech. from Oregon Tech, I was thinking about making a small system to monitor different temperatures including coolant, oil, air intake, cat temp, etc. My question is, where would be the best place to mount my sensors? I can get different sensors depending on the best place. For coolant, I found the following from a post from Skip, so I could most likely just take a tap off of one those sensors. The readings should be as follows H20 Temp (deg F)_______Res. (ohms) 14____________________7-11.5 k ohms 68____________________2-3 k ohms 122___________________700 - 1000 ohms I'm just not sure on getting oil temp. I've read posts where people say what they're temps are before/after adding an oil cooler, I just want to know how they got the temps :-) I also hope to use this system to control one or both of the electric fans (I just took off the motor driven one). I also have a dual core rad I may swap in sometime I get the time. Thanks -Dave

Have you made sure the tires are inflated correctly, and/or rotated them? That's where I'd start.

I might be interested in an EA82 flywheel stopper depending on price...