hooziewhatsit

also, when you get the tbelt cover off, the belt will probably look fine where you can see it. The teeth probably got stripped off at the crank pulley. As for turning the engine over, I would presume it's fine to slowly do it by hand. I wouldn't sit out there all day using the starter to crank it though :-)

If you have an ohmmeter, I'd check the grounding for the O2 sensor. To get the best reading, disconnect the ground terminal from the battery and measure the resistance to the O2 sensor. Could be the resistance is higher than it should be, causing the ECU to have trouble reading the correct voltage from it. I'd venture to guess if the resistance is higher than 1ohm, you should look into running another ground line to it.

interesting.... I've been contemplating trying to find an EJxx and doing that swap. When I went over to see this engine, since he thought it was from a '95, I was hoping it was an EJxx. Well, good news or bad news, this one will drop in much easier, but have less 'normal' horsepower, although we do know what WJM did with his. I really wouldn't mind having more power than I do in my current ride, and this free engine really helped get the overall cost down :-)

yea, it looks like it has a vacuum advance disty, with four wires going to it. The maf has the big barn door flapper on it. Thanks for the confirmation. I thought it was the older type. off to do research on the other differences between the two.. unless someone beats me to it.

It'll make the car run rich, and could eventually clog the catalytic converter I believe. A generic bosch sensor will work just fine, and be much cheaper than an OEM one. Only difference is that with the generic one, you need to cut and splice the connector on it from the one currently in the car. I think they only cost about 25ish.

Hey all, Yesterday I was given a complete EA82T engine. (ECU, custom shortened wiring harness, two distys, 8 injectors (some look cracked)) The guy thought it came out of a '95 soob, but he doesn't know much at all about them. Is there any way to tell what year the ECU came from? I know there was a difference in the turbo ECUs from '87 forward IIRC. The motor has 84 cast in the top of it, and the heads are Gen 1 :-( It also won't turn over all the way, since it's been sitting outside mostly covered. I took off the valve covers, and found surface rust on one of the cam bumps. Would I be safe in assuming that this is an older gen ECU, without the fuel cut problems, but also without the newer fuel management stuff? Once I get it torn apart and see the state of the internals, I may try to swap it into my SPFI 88 GL. Thanks

Here's a way to narrow down where the problem is... take an ammeter and measure the current coming out of the battery. Go to the fuse box and start pulling/replacing fuses until the current draw stops. Once you know the circuit(s) that are drawing a lot you'll have a much better idea where to start looking. good luck. If you don't have an ammeter, I'm not sure about any other ways to narrow down where your problem is.

lol... that's how I should've done it last winter instead of putting it in the ditch ohwell, 4 Low is a wonderfull thing. good find!

I'd like to, but might be busy the 5th. if you guys work something out for sure, I might be able to make myself available. I'm just over the hill in K falls.

Couldn't she just remove the fuse for the compressor? IIRC, isn't it the one under the hood by the vacuum canister thing? That should keep it from kicking on. That would also allow her to test running without it to see if it's worth it. $0.02

Does it run well at higher speeds? I've accidently bumped spark plug wires before, then wondered why it didn't want to start easily, and shook like crazy once it did start.

I think when I get around to doing the belts on my wifes car, I'll cut the middle one so I can get it off without taking off the crankshaft pulley. Then I'll leave the rest of them on. That being said, I pretty much need to get a new set also. When taking the side covers off, the bolts all stripped out, so I got to use the screwdriver/prying to get them off... grr...

yep, I'd get it tested and (most likely) replaced soon. I just replaced the alternator in one of my cars. It was putting out about 19v. The lights would really dim when I popped into neutral while driving. After burning out a few headlights I finally got smart and got another one.

welcome, apparently there's a pretty common problem internally. This thread has some more details about it. I think if you can handle a soldering iron, you should be able to fix it yourself. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26603

check out this page. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24 Most likely you didn't turn the engine over once after you put the driver side belt on. When I did my belts a couple years ago, I would've done the same thing, except a friend found a document that spelled it out explicitly. My haynes manual has the step in it, but I somehow overlooked it the first time. good luck

It sounds like the green test mode connecters under the hood are connected. If they're connected, you should also hear a relay clicking with the fuel pump. It's under the hood, right by the fuel filter/wiper motor. In the same place are some white connectors also. These should also be disconnected. These are used to pull trouble codes from the ECU.

yep, that's 98% likely your problem also. also, if you ever have the problem where under load it goes from defrost to bilev, that little vacuum canister is probably bad. A new one fixed that problem on my car.

let me know anything you do work out. I only have a stock wagon right now, but would love to do what I can in it.

I've had this happen several times now... Care to elaborate? I've always figured it just gets 'settled in' after a while.

I'd spray some WD-40 or equivalent in the latch mechanism to start. You could also try some at the handle under the dash, although it won't be able to seep in very far. If those don't work I guess you could either take the cable out, hang it up, then pour the lubricant down it (what I did with the new cable), or cut a slice in the outer covering at a high point and do the same thing. Then seal it back up afterwards. This'll probably find it's way into the USRM in a few more days.

Just let me know when

welcome to the board Do your heater controls work? (can you select Bilev, defrost, etc?) It sounds like the vacuum line under the hood that allows you to switch into 4x4 got disconnected. Under the hood, on the left side is a small container with 2 vacuum lines going to it. One goes to the intake manifold, and is probably disconnected. Just find its mate, and reconnect it. The other runs along the firewall to the other side by the wiper motor. I'd check these lines for leaks or breaks. If that doesn't fix it we'll continue troubleshooting.

Do you have A/C in your car? If you don't, I presume the AC radiator wouldn't be there, then there would be plenty of room to open it that way. All the cars I looked at had the AC rad, so there wasn't enough room to even take off the plastic bit.

Ditto, I should be able to make with another friend, maybe the wife, and maybe my bro's.

I actually have one of each sensor extra I grabbed 'just because' a few days ago. Not sure if they work or not, but I can part with them.