hooziewhatsit

you could try swapping the wires for 1 & 3 and see how it runs/looks.

I have the entire dash out of my new 85 t-wagon. It sat for at least 6 years and had some rodent take up residence. Once it stops snowing/hailing/raining here I'll put it back together. From what it looks like, if we take our time and aren't colorblind, it shouldn't be too hard to get everything back together. good luck

whoa, that program rocks! thanks for sharing

if it is anything like my '85 3AT, then yes, you should be able to drop the driveline to replace the seal. (I wouldn't imagine there'd be some reason why you couldn't do it that way).

IIRC, on the passenger side, there is one hose from the intake pre-turbo to the pass. side valve cover. On the driver side, it goes from the valve cover to a 'T'. One side of the 'T' then goes to the PCV valve. The other side goes through the half 'U' shaped hose to the plastic tube with three stubs on it. One stub goes into the block just infront of the tranny. The other goes back into the intake before the turbo. If this isn't enough, I can take some pictures later. This is off of an 85 turbo wagon, which I presume would be similar to yours. good luck

lol.. you made me think about this last night for a while, and I just figured out how it works :-) basically, no matter what position the crank is in, it could either be on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke. However, when the driver side cam (plus disty) is aligned to 12o'clock, it defines wherever the crank is as either compression or exhaust. along the same lines, I believe if you lined up the crank and put the driver side on 6o'clock, it would be 180* off (BAD). hope this clears up some questions on why it works.

I've had to replace one, and will be replacing two more on my loyale in the next week or so. I found the easiest way to remove the ball joint from the lower arm after removing it from the knuckle, is to use a big crescent wrench I have as a pickle tool. It usually tears up the boot, but it's getting replaced anyways, right? A cheater bar on the crescent wrench, and something supporting the lower arm, it should pop right out. good luck (there should also be lots of other hints & tips on the board)

what output ratio is the trans and rear diff? 3.9 I assume? I may be doing a 5spd swap this summer, so some cheap parts for it would be nice. I could probably come pick it up on the way to my parents sometime (they live on Mt. Hood, I'm in KFalls)

hee hee.. d'oh next time I'll read the entire post back on topic, it is interesting how the plugs on that side are still white. Would tend to make me think it's not getting gas... as to why, I'm not sure. have you pulled those plugs after cranking and tried to smell gas? Maybe disconnect the coil and compare to the side that is firing correctly?

are those cylinders getting gas? last week I unplugged all my injectors and tested them. However, when plugging them back in, I managed to get two that looked plugged in, but actually weren't. horrible power, if I unplugged two wires the engine didn't change, unplug the other two and it would die - same as what you're experiencing. I also just put new plugs in and after taking them out, it was obvious which cylinders had gas and which ones didn't. just a thought.

Is that for SPFI cars also? I thought it only worked on carbed cars? Or am I way off the mark? thanks,

I've noticed that every EAxx car I've looked at (small sampling though) has a shim on the right side one. An OOPS somewhere along the design process?

thanks, I got a modine 935 a while ago, and have yet to put it in because the lower rad hose connection comes out a 90* angle. I just need a longer hose to make it work, although plug & play is really nice also :-)

does the bottom rad hose on this one come out at an angle like the stock ones, or at a 90* angle from the rad?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7926664888&category=33621 they also have a fair amount of other soob stuff relatively cheap.

yea, my solenoid is good. I've tried different solenoids. Only thing I haven't done yet is trace the wires back to the ECU to make sure they're good. hmm, I hadn't thought too much about that. I removed the valve before I knew much about how it worked. the solenoid had already been disabled by *cough* my mechanic *cough* Right now I just want the CEL to go off.

I ran with a plate in place of my EGR valve for about a year. I just recently put it back on trying to make my light go out, but it appears there's something wrong with my ECU, so it won't.... during that year I did not have any problems.

when my cat element came loose and blocked the exhaust, I had NO POWER. I could only accelerate over 35 going down hill. There was also a distinct louc 'whistle' from 'somewhere in the front of the engine'. I used a rubber hammer to gently tap the cat, and heard the chunks of the element bouncing around. After that I pulled the Y pipe and cat, and really heard it rattling around.

I second the vice-grip idea. I've used it many times to break loose stubborn bolts, especially the ones in wierd places you can't get anything else on (like the bolts holding the mechanical fan to the water pump on an old-gen soob).

After that happening to me several times, I now use liberal amounts of loctite on that screw. I also had to re-tap it to a larger size.

I would advise against the BFH personally I just had to put the TC back on my 3AT for an 85 turbo wagon. I also had trouble making it go that last half inch. Basically, while spinning it, I rocked it around the input shaft, and it eventually went in. Once it was there, I tied it to the tranny while I got it under the car and back up. I'd say just keep trying :-\ good luck

why exactly do they need the VIN? I called the local dealer a while ago about the front seal for a 3AT tranny.. 'we need the VIN since we'll have to go to Subaru for it' And of course I didn't have the car here, so I didn't have the VIN. so, instead I went to local place who had it in stock (not oem, but it works)

what's the resistance from the negative cable to the exhaust? (to measure properly you should disconnect the neg cable)

I've had to reach in there and grab the bolts with vice-grips before to break them loose. I think you should be able to just unbolt the compressor and move it out of the way. If you do decide to disconnect the lines, I'd wear glove(s), and use a wrench of some sort to crack it open.

have you checked out the EA81 stuff on this site? http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 I don't know the answer to your question, and I'm not sure you'll find on that page, but I guess it's probably better than your Chiltons good luck,