hooziewhatsit

I had one do the same thing. Had it tested at the parts store, and the guy came back and said 'it's actually working too well, it's putting out too high of a voltage' I also managed to burn out a headlight after driving it for a little while like that. Put a new one it, and it's been fine since.

I presume you have the single-range, pushbutton 4WD? there is an excellent guide to troubleshoot it here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=47 I got the link from the USRM link in the header above.

you can also make sure the firing order is correct #1, 3, 2, 4 front 21 43 rear #1 on the cap is nearest the brake/hill-holder area, and it goes counter-clockwise from there.

find the plug going to the thermoswitch in the radiator and connect the two wires. That should hotwire the electric fan to run all the time.

before you buy another one, have you tried testing as shown here? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24997&highlight=throttle+position+sensor

Add to it, and tape a few bucks in there as well for some 'beverages' for the hard work they just went thought

if you guys buy all the stuff and ship it to me, I can do all of the assembly. I've done plenty of soldering in the past. I wouldn't mind learning how to do it either for one of my cars possibly also.

I've had a turbo long block, 2WD 3AT and a 4WD 3AT all behind the rear seat :cool: (car sat about 2.5 inches lower though ) I'm always amazed by how much 'stuff' I can fit in my wagon.

automatic or manual?

like this bus? http://www.trimet.org/environment/hybridbus.htm It's amazing the stuff tri-met is doing to reduce pollution, noise, recycle, etc. I agree, I've been thinking about some kind of system like this for a while. Throw the generator & batteries in the back of a brat, electric motor up front, and drive on. This is probably the direction most stuff is going to end up heading.

It looks like that first link will be your best bet. I don't know palm pilots at all, but there has to be a way to get serial input (RX & TX) to it. Once you get that figured out, you'll need the connector and some code. Since he only links to the binary file on that site, you'll have to write your own code to talk to the ECU over the serial port. Or you may be able to ask him nicely for the source code. This definitely sounds like a doable project.

There's a good guide towards the bottom of this page. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24 Another method I've found to help remove the crank pulley is to pull a spark plug, and shove as much rope (preferably something without loose fibers) into the piston. This will effectively stop the engine and allow you to break the crank bolt loose. Then you can put the bolt back on without the pulley to get the engine into proper alignment. good luck, and take your time. You may also want to look at replacing some of the seals in that area while you're in there, crank seal, oil seal, etc.

FWIW, a couple of my friends took two years to make a system that would read OBDII codes. The first year they made one version, then the second year made a new better version. Although I think their product does a bit more than you hope to do. some details here http://www.cset.oit.edu/stuproj/view_project.aspx?id=9&class=202 I would think someone would already have a product like this for a palm pilot. good luck

you can take the instrument cluster apart and change the odometer to match the current real mileage. I'm also very interested in the details of this project...

the coolant sensor with the green pigtail is for the computer. The sensor for the gauge in the dash is the one with a single plug. I'd guess that the connection there is just corroded and needs to be cleaned. After that, you can start doing continuity tests on the wire to ground. When it goes dead, I assume it goes to the cold end? If so, there must be problem in the dash itself, as if the sensor wire was grounded, it would go to the HOT end.

yep, they're pulling your leg :-\ the EA82 (what you have) is a non-interferance engine, so the pistons/valves never share the same space or collide. This means all you have to do is replace the belts and it will work just fine. I had my driver side belt strip some teeth off doing 60mph. Repaired the belt and I was on my way again :cool:

Here's a guy that did it and said it worked well. He also gives detailed instructions on how to make it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2575&highlight=head+craftsman

gah, fuzzy monitor + Caps = hurting eyes Most likely the driver side belt had some of the teeth strip off*. So when you get the covers off it'll look like it's fine, but it isn't. here's a link from the USRM to the timing belt replacement procedure http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=24 When I did my belts for the first time in a similar situation, it took maybe 4 or 5 hours. Now that I've done it I could probably get it done in a couple hours for a shop to do it, I'd guess you'd be looking at $300-400 for it. Just a guess though. *sidenote: I saw a car in the JY with a stripped belt once... I really hope that isn't why it showed up there

so this is an EA81 MPFI? anywho, looking at your first picture, the sensor + plug right below the blue circle looks the same as the CTS on my 85 EA82 MPFI. In the second picture it looks like the CTS is also there under the red circle. someone else can verify this though

CTS - Coolant Temp Sensor Basically it tells the ECU what the temp of the engine is, to allow it to adjust fuel stuff accordingly. I'm sure someone else will chip in much more technical info about it. On a normal SPFI car (not sure about your conversion though), it's mounted horizontally in the thermostat housing with a pigtail & green plug on it.

try taking the distributer cap off and cranking it over. If the rotor does not spin, you broke a timing belt. That's my initial thought at least. if that is it, you can find the procedure to fix them under the USRM in the title bar above. good luck.

thanks, I'll pass that info on to my grandparents So you have an automatic? It also does it on my grandparent's 5 speed.

hmm... I still have the old stock one I replaced kicking around somewhere... I'll have to try this later this summer. It's always nice to have a working one lying around, 'just in case' thanks for the idea.

Stop the presses! sponsers != sponsors

This circuit looks incredibly easy to make. Sometime in the next couple weeks I need to send out a PCB design. If there's enough interest, I could piggyback this board with mine and get them for basically free. It may not end up as pretty as the one off ebay, but it'll be a heck of a lot cheaper.