hooziewhatsit

do the vent controls work? ie, does hitting defrost make the air come out onto the windshield, bilev makes it come out of the dash & floor? If so the vacuum canister is probably alright. There could still be something stuck/blocking the air vents. my gut reaction, since the air varies with speed, is that it's set to 'vent' instead of 'A/C'. there should be somesort of control thingy right under the vent to switch between the two. Does the amount of air that comes out change if one of the rear windows is open? It could also be the flapper inside the vent housing to switch between outside air & inside air is broken/stuck and needs to be taken apart and fixed :-/

so you have the engine apart and are looking at the HGs? on the wagon I just replaced the HGs on, the 'blown' portion was all black & dirty on the inner ring in contrast to the rest of the HGs being all shiny there.

if you can only go about half as fast as normal in any gear, you're in 4lo. Although, since this is the lever shifter, and not vacuum operated, it's pretty much safe to say that if the shifter is in gear, you'd be in 4lo (so it will work with the light off).

hmm... only four hours south of me here... interested....

I've still been thinking about this occasionally... I would presume that when the HLAs are in their bore it's sealed, so the oil couldn't leak out. ie, while your finger is on the end of a straw, the fluid won't leak out; that kind of thing. That's what I was trying to get at with my above descriptions. that make sense to anyone else but me?

sorry, I thought the 'passenger side first, then the driver side might've thown him off' since the driver side belt has to go on first.

from milesfox, http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm basically: align crank to three marks, driver side cam straight up, put belt on crank engine 360* align pass. side cam to straight up, put belt on. now cams are 180* from each other My car did the same thing; blew the driver side belt doing 60mph down the highway. New belts and it's still going. good luck

if not a wrecking yard itself, I'm sure there are members here that wouldn't mind helping out

Thanks for the update. I have yet to follow this guide on my 87 with the IAC code. I suspect that the problem is something in the ECU as well. That being said, I *may* be able to repair it This is probably similar to what happened to Citrusshark and his injector problem. I also suspect this problem with my 88 GL and the EGR light. I'll have to 'examine' the ECU from one of my cars today to figure out whether or not this fix could be made. If you do find another ECU for cheap, I would be interested in acquiring yours to do some testing, if that's alright. -Dave

umm.. it shouldn't work like that... I drove a car with a bad front hub about 50 miles in 4WD once after I bought it. Now if one of the rear hubs decided to strip also... that could cause a complete no-go situation. Something I would check while you're at it.

ditto, check the hubs to make sure the splines aren't stripped... rather odd though why it won't move in 4wd though....

did you clean out all the PCV hoses? I've seen some get really clogged, especially at the plastic 'T' piece.

have you followed this guide? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html I haven't seen any carb'ed cars personally yet, but I would assume that there would be a set of white/black single pole connectors probably under the hood. Connect them, and the LED on the ECU should blink the stored codes. I could be wrong though since I've never had to work on a carb'ed car

check/replace the rest of the hoses in the PCV system. ie, all the hoses from intake to valve covers, etc.

http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 In part 2 of the EA82 service manual, it has pinouts for an SPFI wagon. It also has troubleshooting guides for most of the electrical stuff. Even though your's is a '91, it should be the same thing. Let me know what you find out with your IAC valve. I need to go through the guide for an '87 wagon I have currently.

when you get the cam sprocket off, there are two 10mm bolts that hold a 'guide' for the cam. Once this is out the entire Cam can be removed. The o-ring goes between this and the cam tower. The cam seal is where the cam spins inside it. If that made any sense at all. I'll try to get the SOA #s tomorrow... most of the bags are empty now so they may be wrong... (hope not)

there should be a small access hole on the inside of the backing plate. Find a small screwdriver and push in on this. This should release the automatic adjuster. Unfortunately, this is one of the things that you discover how it works once you get the drums off... good luck

you'll see what I mean when you get in there. I may very well have my terminology wrong :-/ The lifters have a round head that you'll want to put the grease on, then the rocker arm (?) will rest on it and the valve, and the cam lobe will then push on the rocker arm. For the gasket, I just put a single continuous bead all the way around it, after cleaning out all the old stuff (PITA). Then just put it on carefully, trying not to knock off the rocker arm thingies, and trying not to smear the gasket stuff too much. You'll also want to replace the O-ring for the oil passage from the head to the cam tower.

the cam tower 'gasket' is one you make using ultra grey/black silicon stuff, it isn't a preformed gasket you can buy from the dealer. also, if you do take it off, make sure you have some thick/heavy grease to hold the rockers on the lifters when you put it back together.

new distributor = fires right up and runs!!! bad distributor in other car = no worky Conclusion: the CAS is bad. So, off to the JY for a new distributor for the car that now doesn't work. Thanks for the help everyone. I'm still perplexed as to why it decided to die when it did. Would've bugged the heck out of me if it died while the engine was out. I would've thought I had something screwed up somewhere. thanks, -Dave

shouldn't all the pinouts be the same? I just used that same manual to help debug an 87 SPFI wagon I'm having CAS issues with. The wire colors may not match, but the pinout should be the same.

get part 2 of the EA82 manual here: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 in the second half of it there are a lot of flow-charts showing troubleshooting guides for different components including the injection system. Give it a look then let us know how it goes. good luck.

and? what was it? A bad CAS, or?

guess I forgot to mention that when I swapped coils, I swapped the whole assembly, including the ignition amp thingy. This morning when it was cool out it ran long enough to warm up (even had the AC on), then it sputtered and died Could this somehow be related to the CTS? I just tried to start it again (90+ *F out) and it did not want to start. I also checked continuity on all wires from the disty/ignition amp to the ECU, and they're fine (or just didn't break even while I wiggled them around). I have to take my 91 loyale down for a couple days to replace the water pump (see my boom goes the radiator hose thread) and can swap the disty out if I need to. I'm assuming the distys are the same inside. I may take the 91's apart just to make sure though. thanks, -Dave

Same thing.. Although it did take longer to die with the good alternator Like before, after the tach/engine jumped around and died, I took the coil wire off and cranked the engine by hand. It would occasionally spark, where it should spark often with each quarter turn of the engine. So to recap... -new coil -new alternator -clean grounds still jumps around and dies I have another disty but with a different connector. I could swap it in if I have to, although I'm going to wait until it cools off out there (fricken hot in the sun, I need a garage) about the idle, it's also saying the IAC is broken, but the relay is just fine and I've cleaned it out(??). regardless, I should be able to keep the RPMs around 2000-3000 and not have it die when I turn on the AC. Thanks, -Dave