hooziewhatsit

I think someone else once tried to repair the resistors with their own. As I recall it worked alright for a little while, but his final conclusion is that it'd be easier to get one from a boneyard. I wouldn't think you'd get that much condensation in the blower motor box. I'd check the drains in each corner of the hood. Chances are they're plugged and letting water into the heating system.

The power steering pump bracket is triangular and has 3 torx bolts holding it down. Does your car have AC or not?

Is it that hard to add an aftermarket cruise control to these cars? How many of them came with cruise from the factory? Has anyone checked to see if non-cruise cars have all the hookups needed? I know my 88 GL sans CC has a plug in the engine compartment near where the vacuum pump is on my 85 t-wagon; no idea if it's related to the vacuum pump though. I just know that it most cases the harness/computer will have all the hookups needed, but the actual cruise control 'stuff' isn't there. I'd really like some sort of cruise control since most of my trips are around 4 hours long I may have to look into this more...

NO MORE low speed surging while cold

I believe the EA82 part 2 pdf from here *should* have the pinouts you seek, it will be toward the end of the pdf. http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

I just got mine swapped out... found a LONG flathead screwdriver, and was able to loosen both after removing the vacuum line to the brake booster. To remove the TPS, I had to file down on the AC compressor with a 10" file I have. The wire bundle running through there I had to pull up on top of the compressor to get out of the way. After filing quite a bit on the compressor I was able to slide the TPS off. A little more filing for kicks & giggles and now it goes on/off just fine. Much easier than moving the alt/compressor/fan shroud/etc to get some space to work in. At the moment I only have the top screw holding it in place until I get a final driving test/adjustment.

just an FYI... it appears that to change the TPS, the AC compressor (if you have one) needs to be unbolted and moved about 1/4" tops I'm thinking about maybe grinding down on the AC bracket to make the room, If anyone has any tricks to removing/replacing these things, please let them be known :-)

yea, those gears/cogs need to come off. In theory they should just slide off, but after a while they can get pretty stuck. May need to use a puller of some sort. There aren't any pins, etc, holding them on. The front main seal is right behind them. If you don't have a seal puller like me, I've had luck using one of the stock wire hose clamps, bent so most of it is straight, except for the 90* angle on it. Could also probably get a metal clothes hanger and make a hook it in (make sure all the edges are rounded to avoid damaging the block). I shimmy that in the inside of the seal, then pull it out. It also helps to take a screwdriver & hammer and pound the seal in slightly. That will help break the 'seal' it has with the block, and make it easier to come out. good luck

I just got one from the junkyard to hopefully get rid of my surging while cold and driving slow. It doesn't appear easy to take apart and remove. Best bet is probably to get a used one from a junkyard. I think they're very expensive new. There's a link in here to a method to test it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24997&highlight=throttle+position+sensor

In my case on an EA82, it looked like a shortened 17mm socket would work. However, I'm not sure if you'd have clearance with a 3" extension between the head bolt and the body of the car. Maybe something you would want to check out while taking everything apart?

While you have the heads/cam tower off, you can look to see if you have a 17mm socket that will allow you do the re-torque without removing the cam tower. This should save some time from removing the timing belts, cam tower, etc. If you find you don't have/can't make a socket that will work, then do like snowman mentioned and don't add the sealant to the cam tower the first time.

you could try some of that chemical radiator flush stuff as well. Just follow the directions and don't let it sit in there for a couple weeks.

A timing light usually clamps over your #1 spark plug wire and makes a light flash each time that cylinder fires. You point the light at the flywheel and it will illuminate the flywheel at the timing marks, and show you where the engine is currently firing at. You then rotate the disty to get it to the correct timing Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). I think it should be 8* BTDC on a carbed EA81? (someone please verify that:) ) You can get close to the correct timing by making sure the rotor location is the same when you put the new distributor in, but the only real way to make sure it's done right is to use the timing light.

!?!?! someone else from kfalls? welcome to the board The only thought I have is about the clutch. Where does it engage/disengage? Could it be misadjusted from age now to where 4th doesn't want to work well? Does it do it in any other gears?

Not the best of the ones listed, but, I made three or four trips from Klamath Falls to Grants Pass (about 100 miles one way) to work on my '85 twagon which was sitting at the in-laws place. One trip to buy it and have my father in law tow it to their place... one trip with a new fuel pump to get it running... one trip to fix the busted main seal on the 3AT... another trip to finish everything else up and bring it home. Oh, and the trip home Car hadn't run in at least 6 years... I was by myself, no cell phone, and had to take the thermostat out so it wouldn't overheat, and no windshield wipers (still don't work). and now it's just sitting there with a broken driveshaft u-joint waiting for me to get the rest of the parts needed for a 5spd swap...

if you have the green connectors connected, the CEL will be off for a little while, then blink if there are no codes. Just disconnect them and go on your way

looks like that's the code for the MAF sensor. can probably fix by: -clearing codes, and hoping it stays away -make sure it's plugged in/contacts are clean -replace it

there is a pdf in this thread that shows how to test/adjust it . http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24997&highlight=throttle+position+sensor

warning: *thinking outloud* I would think that since the compression on both sides are the same, it would be a timing belt issue. Unless all the valve seals where equally worn (unlikely?) I don't think the compression would be the _same_. Same with the HGs. Besides, the cam timing is a lot easier to re-check then HGs or valves.

assuming 88 or later MPFI, the USRM ECU guide says it's the 'Starter Switch or Circuit' good luck from there

the car must be an automatic? from the USRM guide, 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit

yup, check the castle nuts, and make sure the washer below it is oriented the right way. I should be slightly bulged, and you want the convex side of it towards the castle nut.

I believe you're supposed to be able to turn on the marker lights without requiring the key. In other countries I've heard you need to leave them on at night while parked on narrow roads so people can see your car there. Personally I prefer having the switch and headlights that turn off with the key vs. headlights you can leave on without the switch

This Lolo-pass goes between Zigzag (yes, a real name of a town :-)) and Hood River eventually. Zigzag is about 20 miles east of Sandy. Here is the start of lolo pass Rd, listed on here as NF-18 http://maps.google.com/maps?q=zigzag+oregon&ll=45.346656,-121.935024&spn=0.030143,0.083251&hl=en

IIRC the ECU is on the same fuse as the Horn is. Like bobby said, check the fusable links. They're in a black case mounted on the coolant overflow bin under the hood.