hooziewhatsit

flywheel at center mark of three marks, driver side cam dot at 12:00 high, put on belt, snug down the tensioner, so the belt doesn't skip a tooth somehow. rotate engine once, back to three marks, driver side cam is now 6:00 down passenger side cam is 12:00 high, put on passenger side belt Rotate engine a couple more times, verifying that cams are exactly 180* from each other. I've found it's easiest to tighten the tensioners so they are as loose on the belt(s) as you can get them. Get the belts on, then loosen the bolts on the tensioners, and they will spring into tension on the belts. In theory, I think you're supposed to 'torque' the belts a little by using a wrench (19mm?) to put some torque on the cam sprocket, and let the spring on the tensioner take up the slack. This is something I haven't done before, so hopefully someone else can chime in with their experience. edit: two replies while I was typing... I need to learn to type faster :-P

You can also check the vacuum lines under the hood that go to the heater controls. There should be a vacuum line going from the intake manifold to the vacuum canister on the passenger side-rear of the engine compartment. If that line is disconnected, or doesn't have vacuum to it, the vents will not move from the bi-lev position.

there should be very little resistance in the wires from the solenoid to the ECU (less than 2 ohms should be good). it sounds like the same problem I have with my car. I've checked the wiring between the ECU and the solenoid, I've put known good solenoids in, etc, and I still have the CEL for the EGR solenoid. I even opened up my ECU to check for blown traces but didn't see any. There's probably a blown transistor in there. I've just gotten used to having the CEL on. However, we don't have inspections here, so it doesn't really matter.

D'oh! That could cause a problem, it should be: 3 - 4 1 - 2 rad firing order is 1, 3, 2, 4. So, one side, front to back, then the other side front to back.

you want it to line up after it is in. So yes, you'll have to compensate a bit when you put it in.

yup, it would sit right beside the radio in the cubby hole between the seat/foot area. I think it was most commonly offered with GL-10s

I don't think schucks or napa had it when I looked a while back. One of the guys at napa said he though a local independent shop carried it, so I called them and ordered some through them. If nothing else I think you can order it from their website.

it's just a code for the type of car/engine/tranny type. It also means there are no stored codes

so the engine doesn't turn over at all when you turn the key? First thing I'd check is to make sure the battery terminals are CLEAN, both at the battery and the starter. I know you said you checked them, but... A friend had her car do this same thing last week. Turn the key and she got nothing; no lights, nothing. Cleaned the terminals and it started right up. After that, I'd check to see if 12v is getting to the solenoid on the starter. It's the single small wire that clips onto the starter. If you don't have voltage there, there's a problem in the key ignition circuit somewhere. Also, it will throw code 11 if it didn't start. That's normal.

ditto. It's also only about a $9 dealer part, so it may not be bad to replace either. When you get it out and shake it, it should make a rattling sound. I'd also take all the PCV hoses off and make sure they aren't blocked up.

well then... looks like you found a bug in their system. I wonder how that starter works on every other car, that I imagine would have a higher idle when cold as well? Or do they just have better computers that hold a certain rpm to warm up? And to be perfectly honest, I have no idea why they would have suggested to tap into the fuel injector pulses. Unless I'm mistaken (could be) higher idle = faster fuel injector pulses, lower idle = lower fuel injector... etc... you'd run into the same problem you have now. hmm... I'm contemplating a little electronic device that would take a variable rpm in, and spit out a certain rpm... That would allow the computer to control the engine idle, and would let the remote starter know that it's running... I'll have to ponder this...

the pump is very easy to change. It's right in front of the right rear tire. Three bolts hold the bracket to the car. Remove them and it drops down where you can uplug the harness and unclip the two fuel lines going to it. If you ever do have to change one, have a drain pan ready to catch fuel while you shove the new pump on. the pumps in my cars make a bit of noise... usually in time with the turn signal

bad disengagement mainly comes from torque bind from driving on pavement in 4WD or driving with miss-matched tires. Normal really... next time you can try driving in reverse while disengaging 4WD to see if it helps mitigate the clunk. As for the dash... there are two screws right above the instrument cluster, two under the lower edge of the dash; one goes into the rear wiper control switch. Two screws on the heater control; one behind the defrost button, one behind the off button. Two more in similar places behind the hazard light button/panel. I believe it should just pop out of place after that. All the vacuum lines go to the rear of the heater/slider control thingy. Are there two vacuum lines that come off the vacuum canister? One to the 4WD stuff, and another to the dash controls? (I'm not sure, I'm asking ) Even though taking the dash apart is pretty easy & quick after you've done it a few times, I'd just want to make sure I had good vacuum as far in as I could. I presume you made sure you had vacuum at the line near the accelerator cable?

I presume you have it hooked up the negative side of the coil? Have you tried re-doing the programming on it when it's cold, so it 'learns' the higher idle? (I'm looking at page 20 of the installation guide) Not sure what that would do when it got warm outside again and the car doesn't need to idle as high though...

not as high meaning; lower voltage, or not as fast of rpms? I'm not sure how the injector pulse rate corresponds to the rpms. Looking through the manual, it looks like you can just connect the tach input to the negative side of the coil and be done with it? That's where the connection to the dash tach comes from. But to answer your original question about the polarity on the injector; unplug the injector (only two pin connector that goes into the throttle body), turn the key to on (not start), and measure the voltage on the two pins going to the body harness. One should be 12v, and the other should be 0v or floating. These cars use a switched ground system, so the hot lead is always hot.

ahh, makes sense now, I have been informed couple more questions... So the tech line is having you tap into the injector wiring with their remote starter bring the idle down? :confused Just trying to understand what they're telling you... Given enough time the computer will kick the idle down automatically. What remote starter is it so I can look at the installation guide also? (I've been meaning to add one to my car anyways) (sorry if I was the one that made you feel like an @ss, I'm just curious about why the starter needed the fuel injector stuff )

forgive my ignorance... but why does the remote starter need to know about the fuel injector/rpms? It seems like all it should do is start the car, then let the computer worry about making the engine run? Does it have some emergency cut off if the idle or such goes too high? How high is it idling when it's cold?

awesome, glad it was an easy fix. -Dave

I have 4, they all run... however.... the 85 twagon has an almost two piece driveshaft, so it doesn't get driven (it does run!) 85 carbed wagon... no title for it yet... but it runs! the 88 GL and 91 Loyale are daily drivers.

the steeper the hill, the better (to a certain point). I've had the best luck when the heater core ends up below the water pump. Just start squeezing hoses (including the heater core ones), bounce the car, etc, until it warms up. Add coolant as needed. good luck

nope, doesn't matter which way you turn the engine over, just as long as the driver side cam goes from pointing straight up to straight down. In the end the cams should be 180* from each other.

also make sure you crank the engine over once inbetween the drivers side belt and the passenger side belt. I've made this mistake even after doing several timing belt jobs

also, interesting to note, my 88 GL had a problem for a long time where, if I had the vents on defrost and I went up a hill, or otherwise had to hit the gas for a while, the vents would change to bilev. Replaced the vacuum canister under the hood with one from a junkyard and haven't had the problem since. (it would suck to lose 4WD going up a hill because of that problem)

only problem with that is sometimes the drivers side belt will strip some teeth off of it, as was the case when my tbelt blew. In that case, the belt itself will appear to be fine until you get it out, or get the cover completely off and see the teeth fall out. I once saw a car in the junkyard with a stripped timing belt. I really hope it didn't get junked over it

Personally, if it is the timing belts, I would be more inclined to fix them than throw a whole new engine in. These engines are non-interferance, so if the belt(s) did break, the engine is just fine. Way to test for a broken drivers side belt: take the distributor cap off and have a friend crank the engine over. If the rotor does not move, the timing belt is bad. Also check the screw holding the rotor in place while you're at it. If it is the timing belts, it'll probably take about 3-4 hours the first time to replace them, and you don't have to pull the engine. As to the engine swap, if you do go ahead an do it, I'd reseal the new engine while it's out (front main, rear main, oil pump, both cam seals, maybe oil pan gasket, etc). I believe you should be able to just unbolt the intake manifold, move it out of the way (into the spare tire spot), take out the old engine, insert new, bolt the intake back on. Slightly simplified but you get the idea. Also note that by putting a carbed engine in, you're losing a bit of compression (9.1 vs 9.5 IIRC) good luck, and welcome to the board.