hooziewhatsit

so when you turn the key to 'on' (not starting it) the fuel pump pulses? If so.. it sounds like you have the green connectors connected (even though you said none were?). I'm not sure, but I think with the greens together you don't get codes. Could very well be wrong though. Easiest way I've found to drain the gas tank.... Unhook a fuel line under the hood before/after the fuel filter. Get extra length of fuel line and route into container. Turn key to 'on' and let the fuel pump pulse and pump out the gas. Takes a while, but you don't have to rig up any power connections directly to the pump. For the couple I've drained this way, I just got a majority of the old gas out, then replaced it with much more good gas + seafoam.

yes, I'd guess that you would have to fab something up yourself to do this. I'd imagine once you got the (possibly bad) diaphram unscrewed, you'd see what you need to move to engage 4WD. It may just be easier to get a new diaphram from a junkyard and replace it.

the CR-1269 is a direct bolt in for the 85 turbo I used to have. I got it from Radiators.com for ~130ish I think? Was able to just barely get the stock cooling fan onto the water pump. edit: oh yea, it also has the transmission cooler lines for the auto tranny.

There used to be a nice troubleshooting guide to this 4WD system in the USRM, but I guess it got lost in the shuffle to the new system? on the driver side top of the tranny is a large vacuum baffle thingy. When you (or an assistant) click the button, you should be able to see it move. If it doesn't move, you have a vacuum leak before that point. I think it should give a little hiss of air during normal usage.. not sure though. Out of curiosity, how do you know it's not going into 4WD?

there are two solenoids on the driver side near the wiper motor. Make sure that these: -click when you hit the button -have vacuum to them from the intake manifold If either of those don't work, well, you won't have 4WD

looking at the diagram skip made in the other thread, where he has it labeled 'wire from IG switch', that can either come from your ignition switch (yours doesn't work) or you can control that with a button. So you will have 12v --> one side of button; other side of button to 'wire from IG switch' on the drawing. This way the button only has roughly 200mA (0.2A) of current running through it; ie, not as much as the solenoid would need. A 3amp button I would think would work, but I don't know exactly how much the solenoid draws, so I would feel better using a relay with a much higher current rating.

yep, check the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the vacuum canister on the rear pass. side of the engine compartment.

Skip has done this several times, and even made up a nice diagram: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=410405&postcount=6

on my 88 GL with AC, there wasn't quite enough room to unbolt the TPS and slide it off... So... I took a large file and just started filing away at the bracket for the AC. 1/4" later I had enough room to slide the TPS off This saved removing either the throttle body, or removing the alternator, AC, AC bracket, and whatever else to be able to move those things.

A shift light? Sure, shouldn't be too hard. User defineable rpm to turn on at? For the LCD, you could choose from one of these two: http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/2004k/index.html#CFAH2004KYYHJP A G-sensor? pretty much like a G-Tech? We've talked about it, but not much else. We'll have to see if we even have room for it on the board. If we did include one, it would probably add a decent chunk to the total price, and/or may not arrive until a couple product generations down the road. thanks for the interest! -Dave

I believe I've observed the AC compressor turning on with all the settings (bilev/defrost, etc). Someday I plan to add a relay on the compressor line so I can tell it when to run/not to run.

hmm.. I was getting the same shaking a while ago also.... got the rotors turned, did not replace the pads, and the shaking went away... for a while... Now the shaking is back Is this something you have to do at the same time as you replace the pads? I figured if the pads were a bit off, the newly turned rotors should true them up.

Hocrest, did you break off one of the nipples that the vacuum line goes to? Or did you break the 'knob' looking filter like the right circle above? If you broke this, don't worry about it. It's just a vent to let the vacuum on whatever flapper move back to normal position.

a vacuum line under the hood probably came undone. There should be a line from the intake manifold to the clear-ish looking canister on the passenger side rear of the engine bay. There should be another line going from the canister to the driver side firewall. If this gets unhooked, you won't have any control over the vent settings. I had a case once when under heavy load, the vents would shift from defrost to bi-lev. Replaced that vacuum cannister and fixed the problem.

The inner belt is kinda tricky to tighten the first time... You'll have to find the idler pulley that only the inner belt rides on. There is a large 12mm Hex bolt, as well as a 12mm pivot bolt you may need a short extension to reach. You'll have to loosen both of them. I've had the best luck finding something narrow and long to push down on the pulley while I tightened the hex bolt. Once it's snug you can tighten the pivot bolt.

Finally got a break in the weather long enough for the driveway to dry out so I could work on this car Turns out it was that little metal guard below the bellhousing. Somehow it got bent up into the torque converter while it was sitting on a dolley for 6 months. Dropped the exhaust, removed the two engine mount bolts, undid the intake at the air box, removed both rad hoses, and was able to jack the engine up quite a bit actually. You're able to get to the two bolts holding the plate on from either side of the engine on top, and also from the bottom. The plate had obvious scratches in it from where the TC was hitting it. Replaced it with another plate I had laying around. Now an oil change with seafoam to hopefully help get rid of the ticking. Thanks all for the ideas, -Dave

We're still in the design phase, and at least a couple months out from actual production. We'll hopefully have a prototype working within a month. yep, AFR is for air/fuel ratio. We'll most likely have the option of reading either a narrowband or wide band sensor, and displaying the calculated AFR. I was already considering adding an LED to act as the warning in addition/opposed to the buzzer. Will go ahead and do it now Was also planning on letting the user disable the buzzer if desired. Thanks for the questions, -Dave

bump for model info & prices added to first post. Let me know what you think, thanks, -Dave

Nope, this one is on the thermostat housing. It has a two-wire pigtail coming off of it. There is another single lead sensor that is for the dash gauge. I've seen a couple different types of plugs on it. So... you can either make sure you get the right one, or you can cut/solder/heat shrink the old plug on the new sensor, or just cut off both connectors and solder the wires directly. Polarity doesn't matter. Oh yea, you should also check the plug for corrosion; it could be a simple fix.

couple ways to do it... The one I prefer, is to take off the passenger side tbelt cover (if it isn't already), and rotate the engine so that the cam dot is pointing due north-west (when you're close you can line up the 4 big dots to up/down). Now you can put the disty in with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug. That should get you close enough to get it running and time it with a light.

in my case, for a completely plugged cat, I couldn't get over 35-40ish on flat ground, and had a whistle from somewhere in the engine compartment. This was a car with SPFI. I tapped on the cat with a rubber mallet and heard the little pieces of the element bouncing around. Ended up cutting the cat open, removing the element, and welding it shut again.

data logging? already planning on having that feature Since I have most of the stuff (code) for that already, it shouldn't add too much to the price. code = one time expense = cheap(er) hardware = recurring expense = expensive

I suppose it could be made to work with some of the stock sensors... but the whole idea was to get away from them and get some good accurate sensors in there. Of course, if enough people are interested, I can can buy more stuff at once and drop the price down (sometimes significantly) just by buying in bulk.

yep, final price would have all the sensors (more or less) ready to hook up. Talked to the friend I'm designing this with, and we will probably go with a couple different units with different options. We haven't entirely decided what would be included in each level yet. exhaust x8? That'll bring the cost up at least $160 in just parts. If you're still interested I'm sure we can work something out though, it just won't be cheap(er) Speaking of... the majority of the cost involved is the actual sensors (most are $10-15 each in semi-small quantities). Soo... some of the features are inexpensive, some are expensive, and the final price is based on that. thanks for the all the interest & questions! -Dave

ahh, hadn't even thought about the starter. I'll have to play with it tomorrow after my wife gets home from work with the car that has all my tools in it. Thanks