hooziewhatsit

nope, it only goes on one way. I think there is one or two bolts that are slightly offset. So, make sure all the bolts line up before starting to bolt it on.

now that I think about it... The one time I've had to remove an auto tranny (from a soob)... I unbolted the TC from the flexplate... Jacked up the engine and tranny a bit, started to slide the transmission back, and the TC decided it wanted to stay on the engine. Of course, one of the inner shafts on the transmission decided it wanted to stay in the TC though Took some work, but finally got the TC off the engine and back on the tranny.

We're about a week or two from sending the first prototype PCBs (printed circuit boards) out to be manufactured. Other jobs got in the way and took precedence, but we're pretty much focused on this one at the moment Soooo, we're looking at a month or two again... I'm really hoping to at least have a prototype installed to show at WCSS8.

you say you installed the passenger side belt before the driver side belt? How'd you do this without having to take off the passenger side belt to get the driver side belt on? procedure I follow: both belts off Align crank to middle of three vertical marks Drivers side cam straight up put Drivers side belt on Crank engine 360*, direction doesn't matter Align flywheel to middle of three marks again Passenger side cam dot straight up Passenger side belt on. Crank engine a couple more times, verify that the cam dots are exactly 180* from each other. To install the distributor: Crank engine so the passenger cam dot is pointing North-West (10:30 o'clock). Rotor should now be pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. When you install the disty, you'll have to account for the 'spin' as you put it in, so when fully installed, it's pointing at #1

where does the clutch engage in the clutch pedals movement? If it engages near the middle of the pedal movement, then I'd say your clutch is about done and needs replaced. If it engages at one extreme or the other, then I'd say the cable needs adjusted, and tested again after the adjustment.

on a similar note, in a car I used to own, locking the drivers side lock would lock all the other doors, but the passenger side would occasionally unlock itself. some liberal application of PB Blaster (lubricant) to the whole door lock/latch mechanism fixed that problem.

To do this, crank the engine over by hand until the passenger side cam dot is pointing North-West (or 10:30 on a clock). There, the #1 cylinder should be at TDC, and the rotor should pointing to the #1 spark plug. And I agree with the old gas comments. It's probably bad by now. Easiest way I've found to empty the tank.... unhook the fuel line under the hood, after the fuel filter. Put a longer hose on the fuel filter, then run that line into a gas can. Connect the green test connectors, turn the key to 'on' (not start), and let the fuel pump pulse the gas out of the tank. Not the quickest method, but keeps you from having to undo plumbing at the pump, and finding a way to jump power to the pump.

the kickdown solenoid will be on the passenger side of the transmission, with two fairly heavy wires going to it. Under the steering column, there should also be a switch that is pressed when you press the gas to the floor. To test the kickdown solenoid, you can unplug its wire harness from the transmission, then put 12v across the two wires. Polarity doesn't matter. You should hear a 'click' come from the solenoid. If no click, then it's bad and will need to be replaced, and/or worked around for the time being. If it is bad, you can try hooking up a ~60ish ohm, 10W resistor into the computer side of the plug. That should make the computer think the solenoid works, and turn the CEL off until you have time to replace the solenoid.

How did you check this? I ask because the belts can strip some teeth off. Therefore, they don't work, but they still feel like they're there through the check holes in the cover. The only way to be completely sure, like Chux mentioned, is to take the covers off, and verify the cams are 180* from each other. Also make sure that the rotor spins when you crank it.

correct, you don't need to take anything else off to get to the valve covers. You'll just need a long 10mm wrench (one of the ratcheting ones would be a very nice investment for doing this).

There's a guide here as to how to pull the codes. I'm pretty sure the ECU on the XT6 is somewhere other than under the dash. I'm sure some one more knowledgeable can tell you where it is, or you could try some searches about it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html (Edit: This no longer seems to be listed in the USRM anywhere???)

ditto, at one point I looked at what it would take to make one of these sockets.... Basically you just need to take a standard socket, and make it shorter. Probably a lot easier than ordering an expensive part that you may not be able to find. 0.02

how tight did you make the axle nuts? if they are 'loose' (relative term), they can cause all sorts of weird sounds. They should be 145 ft/lbs, IIRC

the rotors on soobs are different than most other cars I've seen. In our case, the rotor is bolted to the hub, so you'll have to remove the hub to get the rotor off. To do this you'll have to remove the 36mm axle nut, and the whole caliper assembly. Then you should be able to slide the hub/rotor combo off the axle, and replace the rotor. I/someone can give a more detailed process to get everything off from around the hub if needed.

connect the greens, then go for a drive. If the CEL starts blinking, it means the computer didn't find any codes. Just disconnect the greens when convenient. If the CEL comes on solid, pull over and check the blinking code....

you can also remove a spark plug, then thread as much rope (non-fibrous) into the cylinder as will go. Then slowly crank the engine over by hand until it stops, then you can loosen/tighten the crank pulley bolt.

under the hood, near the wiper motor, should be a set of either white or black single wire connectors, and a pair of green connectors. If any of them are connected, disconnect them. They're used for testing purposes. Having the green ones connected will cause the solenoids to click. At least you now know the solenoids still work Also, the fuel pump should also pulse on/off when the greens are connected. If it doesn't, that could be your main problem. (the fuel pump is in front of the right rear tire) You say they were clicking speratically? They should tick with about 1 second on, 1 second off... As for the non-running problem, if the fuel pump works, take the distributor cap off and make sure that the screw in the rotor is still there, and that the rotor spins when someone else cranks it over. Could be other things, but that's the most common (missing screw, or blown timing belt)

that stuff does look pretty interesting. Let us know how it goes if you do install it. I'm interested mainly in just reducing road/engine noise, and wonder if it would be worth the time & money just for that. (I do have a decent stereo system, I just never 'crank it up')

Ditto, sits right on the front of the engine. The little clip on the bottom (not the hose clamp) should have a matching thing on the front passenger side of the engine. The hose clamp clips on to the IAC hose. I think one of my cars has it, and the other doesn't...

yea, if the clutch engages at the very top (or bottom) of the throw, I'd lean towards adjusting the cable, and/or replacing the cable if it's stretched before worrying about replacing the clutch itself. After adjusting the cable properly, if it still slips, it's probably time for a new clutch my 0.02

yep, I'm here. Over at the in-laws in grants pass, so I didn't check the board for a couple days. about the fan being on all the time, I *think* there are two similar blue colored connectors behind the dash... Probably just got something misconnected, or not connected at all. You'll just have to take the front of the dash off again and double check them all :-/ I should be going up 97 towards the end of June, and may be able to stop by. PM me if you want.

Last summer I got a car that had sitten for roughly 6 years... in other words, huge stinky nest in the heating ducts Had to pull the entire dash out, pull out the heater core/AC core boxes, clean them (several times), then put it all back together. Now that I've done it once, I really don't think it would be too hard to do again. Also, my friend (who now has the car) says he hasn't smelled anything bad since doing it. I believe in the USRM is a guide to replacing the heater core, that has a pretty good outline of what to do to remove the dash.

I can't say anything for certain, but a friend with a '95 legacy bought a subaru cruise control system for his year, and it plugged right in, just like it would at the factory.

been having troubling finding replacement belts, tensioners, and idler? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-1994-Subaru-1-8-GL-DL-Loyale-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8071408764QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Would be a shame to part a car out over that... good luck

yep... crazy... Of the four old gens I work on (2 of mine, 2 for friends), 3 of the 4 have had that screw come loose. The fourth hasn't yet only because I locktited the screw when I first got it and gave it its first tune up All the others now have locktite as well.