hooziewhatsit

hmm, if it's a 5spd SR, it should have the large vacuum assembly on top to engage/disengage 4wd. I say "should" since who knows if they got taken off at some point... IIR, for the DR, there is an external bar that runs parallel to the length of the transmission, to up near the front. If they don't have the vacuum stuff, and have that bar, it should be a DR. -Dave

oh yea, now I remember what it was! They had a Ford escort... so it should get better mileage than an e-150

the timing belt on the drivers side turns the rotor (and the disty) thereby generating spark. The timing belt is turned by the crank, which is turned by the starter. So, if the drivers side timing belt is broken, it won't run. 'tis a shame... I've seen at least car in the junkyard with a stripped belt... probably what caused it to end up there... -Dave

yep, that'll cause issues. reminds me a friends' ford econobox... probably hadn't had the plugs changed in a long time. The gap was, oh, 3/16" - 1/4" After new plugs and new wires, the gas mileage jumped by 5-10mpg

I'm guessing it's several resistors you splice in series/parallel with either the CTS, MAF, or some other sensor. It changes the output from that sensor to make the computer think the engine is colder than it really is so it injects more fuel, giving you more power. It's basically a sham. I may have to email and see if I can get a copy of the installation instructions to see what exactly it would do, since they don't link to the instructions on that page. -Dave

last night I found two 100's, and two 50's, which I can make work at 33.3ohms. If this works, I'll find yet another solenoid and try to hook the system back up. I've already tried a couple 'good' solenoids (that didn't work), and never got the CEL to go away. -Dave

a pot of that wattage I'd think would be pretty spendy. I also just realized I have several 100ohm 10w resistors, and a dead solenoid I can grab the connector from. Wish me luck -Dave

hmm, I tried 30 before that (only have 10ohm, 10W resistors) and that didn't work. Guess I'll get 3 100ohm'ers next time I'm at Rat Shack. -Dave

awesome, glad it worked for you. I have 40ohms in place of my EGR solenoid, and still have a CEL I think it's something inside the ECU causing the error.

keep an eye on your transmission fluid level. *I think* white smoke can mean a ruptured diaphram on the vacuum modulator. It's on the passenger side of the tranny, round, and screws into the tranny. If you pull the vacuum line off and it's moist, there's ATF in there, and it needs to be replaced. -Dave

I usually undo the lower control arm and sway bar bracket. Then I put the axle through the knuckle. I can then usually pull the entire knuckle far enough away from the car to get the DOJ slipped onto the transmission stub. It sounds like your method should work if you can get the knuckle far enough out. -Dave

the spacer in between the bearing should have as much play as you describe. However, you should be able to slide the axle far enough through the bearings to get ahold of it with something and continue to pull it through.

basically, I'd find the USRM article about the timing belt repair, and verify that the timing belts were done right. You should be able to take off the two outer timing belt covers on either side of the engine to view the belts & alignment dots. Knowing the history of the car would help as well. If has just been worked on, especially something that would take the timing belts off, they're probably wrong. -Dave

transmission 3 4 1 2 bumper firing order is 1, 3, 2, 4 The disty spins counter-clockwise. There should be a mark on the cap for cylinder 1, if not, it's the plug closest to the spring under the brake master cylinder for the hill-holder. I guess it's possible if all that checks out that the distributor is 180* off, but I've never heard of it backfiring under that circumstance :shrug -Dave

To check for continuity, you'll want to set the meter to measure resistance (ohms). If you measure close to zero ohms, the circuit is connected. edit: In this thread is a PDF to the guide that shows how to test the resistances in it, as well as where to make the switch in it open compared to throttle position. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24997&highlight=throttle+position +sensor Although if the wires TO the TPS are shot, then it's a fair bet the problem is there, and not the actual sensor. For those you'll just have to cut & splice (& solder preferably) the new connections

for future reference, here's a list of most everything you'd need to reseal an EA82 Hopefully if you walk in with the part number, the local dealer will have them in stock

how did you clean the IAC? It sure sounds like a problem with it. when I cleaned mine, I took it off the intake, seperated the solenoid from the valve. Then moved the valve all around; rotated it, etc, to knock any crud off. Then I sprayed some silicon lube into the solenoid and actuated it a few times (just jump 12v to it to make it engage). Put it all back together, and my cold off-idle problem was fixed. -Dave

I actually did this for a while last summer. I didn't see any big (or small) increases in mileage I've gotten the best mileage gains... by just driving slower (55 instead of 65) :-\ ymmv, -Dave

I've had this happen many times now, in three different cars... After the last one, I discovered that a disty from an 87 SPFI DID have a key on the shaft, as I had also come across keyed rotors at the auto parts place. As it turns out, it's easy to swap the top nub that the rotor mounts to. So now I'll never have that problem again (in that car at least ) -Dave

I started double-clutching quite a bit before I changed to the ATF flush. It was especially on the 4->3 downshift so I can accelerate after lugging in 4th (well, 2500rpms, which is easy to tool around town in, just can't accelerate much). basically, from 4th I go into neutral and let the clutch back out. Then blip the RPMs about 500 higher than I was in 4th. Clutch back in, shift into 3rd smooth as butter, let the clutch out and continue on my way. The alternative is to just shift down to third, wait for the synchro to catch up, then let the clutch out. With practice, double clutching is quicker, much easier on the synchro, and doesn't grind if you do it right Before the ATF flush just downshifting to 3rd would grind. Since then, it doesn't grind, but double clutching is still a lot faster. ymmv -Dave

Also, the belt can strip some teeth off, so it looks like it's intact, but won't actually work. That's what happened when my belt blew. -Dave

I've heard of the kerosene/ATF in the crankcase ran for a while, then oil/filter changed. as for cleaning the top end, Seafoam is usually recommended for that. Some searches should yield more than you ever wanted to know about it -Dave

I used to be in the same boat, until I ran an ATF flush through my transmission. Now I can downshift to first at about 15mph. Don't do it too often though; I do want to save the synchros do a search for 'atf flush' or similar, and you should find threads with pros/cons about it. -Dave

yep, sounds like a timing belt. Also note that the belt can strip some teeth so it's worthless, but is still in one piece and can feel fine from the inspection hole. Click on the "USRM" in the upper right of the site, find the engine section, and then find the write up on doing timing belts (but only if it turns out that's the problem)

I've had to do this method twice now. However, it only works if the axle comes off the differential side. Since you say you're doing the bearings, you'll have to get the axle stub out anyways. It'll also be easier to get the big ring nut unscrewed without the stub there. -Dave