hooziewhatsit

I'll need to replace the lifters on my 91 loyale before too long also Not really looking forward to it... A tip to get the cam case back on... Make sure the key on the cam is up before you try to join it with the engine (I think straight up is right). Anywho, just make sure none of the lobes on the cam are in a position to depress a valve. Otherwise, one lobe will hold the whole case away from the rest of the rockers, letting them fall off much easier. This also puts the cam in the right place for putting timing belts on. -Dave

I have a reman axle (pass. side) that's starting to make noise after ~4000 miles Replacement will be a GCK from autozone most likely. -Dave

no problem When my first t-belt blew (ahh, the memories), the drivers side stripped. None of the idlers where seized, so not sure why it blew. Been running ever since, with the same idlers/pulleys :0 If you don't have the fancy tool, a couple short screwdrivers through two of the four holes will help you turn the cam over. OR, just put the belt on and crank the engine to line the cam up, take the belt off, and go from there. Remember as you turn the cam it has to compress the valve springs, so it should be pretty stiff. -Dave

when I resealed my 91 loyale, some of the lifters wanted to come out, some didn't. I had pretty good TOD in it, which has mostly been cured by a new oil pump. I'll wait another oil change or two for the last lifter to quiet down. If it doesn't by then, I'll have to dig in again and replace it http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm -Dave

I thought it was 1, 3, 2, 4? -Dave

I think I took mine apart and everything looked fine. Adding the ground wire is what made it work. (and has worked for the last several years). -Dave

it probably won't help the life of the axle boot that's typically right above the cat. Other than that though, no harm in taking the cover off.

I believe all Ea82 heads have that 'hole'. Nothing to worry about. I bet there's one on the other side in the same place -Dave

also make sure it's not the heat shield that's rattling. If you still have the heat shield, use a piece of wood to press on it while some else revs the engine. Otherwise gently tap the cat with a rubber hammer to see if the rattling is internal to the cat or not. -Dave

After driving my 91 loyale on a long trip this weekend, I'm now sure of the issues with my 88 GL It could very well be a clogged cat in my case, as a couple years ago the front cat got loose and knocked around a while breaking off little bits that are now probably at the second cat. When I get back home I'll see if I can take off the back half of my exhaust and fix that problem. My 02 sensor is also 5 years old, so it could probably stand to be replaced. -Dave

Timing belts were the first major thing I did on my car as well Before you put the belts back on, I find it's easier to 'pre-spring' the tensioners by moving them to their loosest setting and tightening the bolts to hold them there. Then while you're putting the belts on, you don't have to fight them. Once the belts are on, just loosen the bolts and they'll spring down onto the belt. have fun! -Dave

From WCSS8, Surveyor ridge I believe. (roundish black edge is because I merged two pictures together)

check/clean your IAC. Cleaning that, and lubing the solenoid part of it makes a good sized difference in my car noted above. It's still not perfect after cleaning it, but it's much better. I know my PCV tubes are pretty caked with junk, so I may change them out sometime. I'm also probably going to go EJ as well, partially because of this -Dave

has the radiator ever been replaced? If not, I suspect that's the most likely problem. http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?ac=Y&year=1991&make=SUBARU&model=LOYALE&submodel=ALL+MODELS&engine_size=H4%2C1.8L For $123, you can get a dual row radiator shipped. A friend has this radiator in his 85 turbo, and it works great. He just has the mechanical fan installed, with no shroud even! -Dave Oh yea, I seem to recall a problem with some cars with digi-dash's... with the headlights on, the temp gauge would climb very high (erroneously). The above mentioned car has this problem.

I too concur with 75w90NS. My 88 GL loved it. Then I ran an ATF flush through it where it got better, until I replaced that with normal gear fluid Since I can't find the stuff for Uncle Scotty's cocktail in town, I'll go back to Redline sometime soon. -Dave

I remember learning how to unplug that connector...took a while, lol. On the body side of the connector, is a small tab you need to pull outwards from the connector. Then, it should come apart. Note that this is opposite of most connectors where you push into the connector to free it. -Dave

Another fix I've had to do a few times is to add another ground from the wiper motor to the car body. To test it, just run a jumper wire from the small Black/yellow wire on the motor, to somewhere on the body (yes, jumper cables will work if that's all you have).

+1, especially check your ball joints. My 91 loyale would do just what you're describing; pull to one direction when hitting the gas, then pull the other direction when letting off the gas. When I got the ball joints out, they just flopped around -Dave

just a few days ago I lubed up my IAC solenoid (again). To do this, I removed the two small screws holding the solenoid to the valve, sprayed some cleaner into it, then some silicon lubricant, actuated it a few times with jumper wires to the battery, and put it back on. Got rid of my hesitation problems off idle when cold. The solenoid is the brass looking tube with a black end cap, with wires going to it in that picture. If the power steering is in the way of the valve, I've used vice-grips to break the 4 bolts loose to get it off to soak in cleaner. Kinda sounds like the valve is sticking open when it first starts (high RPMs), then closing after he hits the gas (and then stalling). Cleaning it could definitely help. -Dave

The flapper door MAF is a different style completely, and does not have the hot wires this thread is talking about cleaning. I'm not even sure if the flapper door has any way/need to be cleaned. The Loyale: if the light started flashing after a few minutes, that means it found no codes (yay!). -Dave

yep, that stuff should work just fine. To clean it, just open the air box and look down the tube towards the intake. There will be a small opening to the side of the big hole. The wires you want to clean are in there. No need to actually take the MAF off the intake box/tube. And yes, those connectors near the wiper should be unhooked normally. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html -Dave

There could be a problem with the solenoid controlling the IAC valve. I'd swap that out and see if it helps. I'd try that before changing anything else out. -Dave

my grandpa's '05 legacy also does the surging in cruise control down hills. He's been told it's normal by several techs at the local dealership AFAIK, there has not been a fix/reflash released to fix that problem. -Dave

Now I have a headache as well http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18705360&postcount=25

You are trying to remove the bolt from the inside of the car, right? The outside is a nut welded the lower arm. (been there, done that ). Also, without the axle nut on, the bearing will be _very_ loose; again, BTDT. -Dave