hooziewhatsit

it's not an official list, but here's what I've gathered from the board over the years. -Dave EA82 parts list.txt

What GD said; Also, you can connect the green connectors under the hood near the wiper motor, and turn the key to On. That will make the fuel pump pulse on and off, which is a good time to smack it and see if it starts humming. -Dave

I personally wouldn't rely on the colors from a haynes or FSM. I'd recommend getting a DMM, and testing the individual wires to find the constant 12v, starter, ACC, etc. -Dave

That's what I'm aiming for when I get around to doing my EJ swap. I have at least 900 more miles before my GL hits 200k, then I'll be serious about getting everything ready. Carpet! At least over here on the dry side of the state My downstairs room flooded a couple weeks ago, so I now have a 10'x15' piece in the driveway. Makes it sooo much easier to work on compared to gravel.

Here's another article about it. http://www.eetimes.com/news/latest/showArticle.jhtml;jsessionid=R0WJCT4PVEHPKQSNDLSCKHA?articleID=209900956

Does your horn work? If not, the ECU is powered by the same fuse (#5). Unlikely, but make sure the screw that holds the rotor in place didn't come out. -Dave

Under the hood, connect the single-pole green connectors near the wiper motor. Then turn the key to On (don't crank it). The fuel pump should pulse with the clicking solenoids under the hood. Go back and tap it if it doesn't. You can also unplug the harness and check for voltage while it's pulsing. This will narrow down to either a bad pump, or bad relay. -Dave

It sounds like you had the dot on both cams straight up, then installed both belts? If so, you actually need to turn the engine over inbetween the two belts, so the cams are 180* from each other. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 -Dave

alrighty.. this thread convinced me to change out all my relays as well. I think the 'unknown' relay in your pictures may be for the rear defroster. If you look on ebay for 'bosch relay' you can find them in a 10 pack (with harnesses) for $25 shipped. -Dave

Mine just had a tack-welds on each corner of the heat shield that broke. I just put the clamps on either end.

I got a couple long hose clamps that held the heat shield in place for a while, until the hose clamps rattled completely loose and fell off ( ). I need to put it back on, but this time I'll JB weld the clamps so they can't come loose. -Dave

I just replaced my HLAs, so I'm going through the same thing. I also used Permatex anaerobic to seal the cam tower. The stuff that oozed out 2 days ago is still as liquidy as when I put it on. I can only assume the stuff in the joint has cured by now. -Dave

yea, they'll probably spin around eventually. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/ $6 each for theirs, or $4.50 to rebuild yours. I put a new oil pump in 6 months ago, and the tick got better, but still comes and goes. Tried ATF/seafoam/MMO, frequent oil changes, etc, and nothing seemed to help Tbelt kit should get here tomorrow, so I'll hopefully know shortly after that if it still ticks. -Dave

I just replaced all 8 lifters with rebuilt ones from Mizpah. I pumped them at least 20 times and they still had full movement. When I put them in the head I made sure the oil hole was pointing up. Not sure if that'll make a difference or not. I'm waiting on a Tbelt kit, then I can start it and see it still ticks or not. -Dave

A few years ago myself, a friend and my brother electrolosized water to get hydrogen in a balloon for that very reason. We rectified wall AC to get ~170vDC, @ 5-6 Amps After running for half an hour, in a water bath since it was so hot (850W), we got about a 6" balloon with gas in it Overall, a LOT of energy to make a little boom. -Dave

Yes, that should be correct. While coasting in neutral, the engine needs gas to idle. When coasting in gear, the throttle plate is closed, so it doesn't need any gas at all. I look ahead and coast in gear as much as realistic. -Dave

Try this: Under the hood, connect the two single-pole green connectors. Turn the key to 'on' - don't start it. The fuel pump should cycle on-off every second. If it doesn't, tap the pump lightly. If it starts cycling, you need a new pump. You can also check for voltage at the pump plug at this point. If you don't have voltage, you'll have to trace it back to the relay/controller. -Dave

91 loyale, 180k, 5spd, get 34ish on the highway doing 55-60 (over that it drops fairly quickly). Slowing down made the biggest change I've noticed. -Dave

I only get about 22ish with city/highway in my 91 loyale. Strictly highway is 34ish. So a bit of city driving really kills the mileage.

SOA part number for the o-ring is 13089AA010. While you're in there it wouldn't be a bad thing to replace/clean the spring on the relief valve after the lifters. I can get that part number tomorrow.

Also consider that depending on how much weight you add to the rear hatch, the shocks may not be able to hold it up anymore. Rockauto.com had new shocks for $20 each, which would probably work better than the 20 year old ones. -Dave

I just replaced an EA82 clutch cable. It seemed to me like it made a sharper bend than necessary inside the car, going under the steering column braces. That's right where the old one broke. The broken end had about 5" of cable on it before the pedal.

Are you wanting to put shoulder belts in place of the lap belt? It's been discussed before, and the big stumbling block I believe is getting a nut inside the body to bolt the shoulder strap part to. The hole should be there already. I would like to do this as well if we find a solution. -Dave

Is 'Body Exterior -> Lift Support' for $19.62 each what we want? That's Cheap! I was thinking they'd be a lot more expensive than that. May have to replace mine... -Dave