hooziewhatsit

so the cup is sliding on the stub? That's good. To get it all the way off, like mentioned above, you need to make some more room. To do this, you need to either drop the center diff (PITA), or remove the lower strut bolt, then push down on the hub. That should give you enough extra room to slide it off the diff. I think doing that is easier on lifted rigs since the hub is held lower than normal by the lift, so you have that extra room to slide it off (?). -Dave

I figure I'll end up doing this to my 88 GL at some point. The paint on my hood is gone, and it's starting to disappear on the doors and A pillars as well My friend who works at a auto paint shop figures it will work, but will just be a lot of extra work compared to a 'normal' paint job. -Dave

just a heads up... 12vAC will NOT change directly to 12vDC. It will be ~17vDC after you rectify it. You will only need 4 diodes to make a bridge to rectify the AC. Or you could just pick up a bridge from Radio Shack. -Dave (is thinking about doing this to my windows as well)

AFAIK, the only place there are ball bearings are in the oil pump, and near the end of the valve train in the heads. To get those ones out, you have to take stuff off the head once you get the head out. Is it possible they were just sitting on top of the engine? -Dave

I'll have to write those down and look for them when I'm in town. Way back, I put in Redline 75w90NS, which made a huge difference. Then I went to an ATF flush for a couple thousand miles. Made an even bigger difference. Now I have 1qt ATF and 2.5qt GL-5 80w90. Still grinds a bit in third, but not nearly as bad as when I started, but not nearly as good as just ATF. I can get 4qts of Redline for about $45. If this mix is the same price or cheaper (if I can even find the stuff), I may have to give it a try. -Dave

It usually moves to a different venue each year. Last year was Hood River, this year is washington.

It's probably the switch & circuit, like suggested above, however, I had a friend with this problem fix it by replacing the spade connector to the solenoid on the starter. If nothing else, it's a quick fix/check before you start making other bigger changes. ymmv, -Dave

does your speedo work? If not, that's the cause of the VSS code. Most likely a broken speedometer cable. I can't remember off hand what the neutral safety switch is for. Some searches should tell you what you want to know. -Dave

yep, don't feel bad. Just look in the 'Similar threads' at the bottom of this page for at least 5 other similar threads -Dave

+1 That's the best way I've found to do it as well.

So if you drill it out, how will you retorque the new one? Best thing to do would be get a 22mm socket, and a long breaker bar. Shove some non-fibrous rope down a cylinder, and crank it over until it stops. Then you can really wrench on it to get it loose/tight again. -Dave

This what you were looking for? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 Listing in the USRM (upper right corner), under Engine. -Dave

Best thing I ever did for my sanity was order one of these: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=86 (infrared, no-touch thermometer) Now, I know that when my 88 GL is 1/8" from HOT, it's really right at 190*F. Also, I know that my 91 loyale (which barely comes off the cold mark) is just fine also. I don't trust the gauges in these cars at all. -Dave

I'm kinda partial to the dark forest green I've seen on a couple around here. If I ever get around to repainting my badly fading silver one, it'll probably be that color

I don't know how many times I've had this problem. Even tried blue lock tite, which didn't help much at all. Although I don't think my lock washer was in very good condition. I found another disty with a keyed top (from an 87 SPFI), and swapped it like subyrally mentioned. Now I just need to make sure I get the keyed rotors when I replace them. -Dave

you said you connected the White connectors, and got some clicking? Don't you mean the green ones? When you connect the green ones and turn the key on, the fuel pump will cycle on/off with the clicking under the hood. If the pump doesn't cycle, use your test light to check the voltage at the pump. If you have voltage, then it's probably a bad pump. You said you jumped 12v straight to the pump, and it still didn't work then? -Dave

For D-Check, I thought if the CEL came on blinking, that meant 'nothing is wrong'. If it comes on solid (like it does for me), it means there's a code, so stop and read it. As for your stumbling issues... is it speed dependent or RPM dependent? If RPM, almost sounds like a bad TPS, which you say you've checked... Oh yea, does this happen cold & hot? -Dave

First thought is a gummed up idle air control valve ("IAC " with space if you want to search for it). -Dave

ok, cut out one of the resistors, so I now have 50ohms. Still doesn't work Time to dig into the wiring to the ECU I think. Thanks for all the help, -Dave

I checked both fuses yesterday. They were both fine. I swapped them anyways, then forgot to look at the lights in the dark to see if it made a difference I'll see if I can remember tonight.

well, been driving for a while now with (measured) 33.3 ohms in place of the EGR solenoid, and still have the EGR code (three 100ohm, 10W, in parallel, soldered to EGR connector) Yes, I've cleared the codes through disconnecting the battery, driving with the greens connected, etc, it's still there. Just put 500 miles on it, so if it was fixed it should've gone away. Someday when I have time to dig into it, I'll make sure again the wires from the solenoid make it to the ECU. I have an ECU from an 87 DL SPFI. If the numbers match, I may try swapping into mine (88 GL). -Dave

I was about to start a new thread asking where exactly the ground for the passenger side headlight is. There are a plethora of threads saying the problem is the ground, just not where to find it :-/ Any help would be appreciated -Dave

hmm, stock 88 GL, 5 spd, SPFI, about all I could a few weekends ago was 85 in 4th This was also at ~4500' elevation, with 50lbs of tools and 4 adults.

as long as you're driving straight, and not spinning the tires, you can shift into 4Hi just fine. You can shift into 4Lo while moving AS LONG as you can match RPMs... Not recommended at high(er) speeds though. If you don't match the RPMs just right, the car will dramatically slow down when you let the clutch out Yea, the bar on the top, IIRC, should move about half an inch forward/back. If you find one out here, I'm sure we could work something out to get it shipped to you. -Dave

I somehow got unsubscribed to this thread and just saw all the recent replies I'll see my grandparents this weekend, so I'll ask how it's going for them, and if they've made any progress. For them, it did seem to be a fuel map related issue, since CC would continue to work, it just wasn't smooth at all when going down hills. :shrug I'll know more this weekend. -Dave