hooziewhatsit

if you set the two pumps next to each other, the height difference is in the length of the shaft. ie, what the pulley bolts to is at a different height. Also, as far as I know, the pulleys are the same, so you'd need to get the right WP no matter what. -Dave

I bought an extra long 10mm box end wrench just for that purpose I've had the best luck using a crescent wrench to hold the shaft still with my left hand, while breaking the nuts loose with the 10mm in my right hand, from the top of the engine. Can also get to them from the bottom. Depending on how tight they are, you may have to replace the 10mm wrench with some vice-grips to break them loose the first time. Usually once they're broken loose you can get them off by hand. -Dave

For the clock, I'd say it either isn't plugged in, or one of the internal resistors burnt out, and needs replaced/re-soldered (this is very common). Also sounds like you need a new fan resistor pack. Some searches should show you where it is and how to replace it. -Dave

is this the same thing that's bolted to the hood release cable bracket, or am I thinking of something else? (fuel pump control relay maybe?) /random thought -Dave

did you find the small panel with the four relays on it? I believe it should be on that. If you're sitting in the drivers seat, if you were to reach under the dash naturally with your left hand, that's where it should be. Now obviously, you won't be able to that, but that's where it should be. It is not mounted to the firewall side either, it's mounted to the dash, opposite the firewall. To find the bad one, I'd start unplugging them one at a time. Two are for each headlight, so if the HL stops working, you found that relay(s). Oh yea, if you have a loyal, and not a legacy, this is the right forum. -Dave

correct, when the CEL is on, you can read the flashing codes. The ECU is right under the steering column. You can usually see the light by compressing the foam on the kick panel and looking straight down the steering column. There may be a cable group in the way also. The first time you might need to remove the kick panel, just to see where it is. After that you shouldn't need to remove it. -Dave

Once you get the door panel off, you'll find two adjusting points near the top of the door, that you can adjust to change how high the window can go. It's basically a 'lip' that the window runs into. Adjust those accordingly so that the window can't go too high, and you should be golden. There are some others that will adjust the angle of the window, but I don't think you should need to mess with them. -Dave

That makes sense. However, if they sprockets are on backwards, the cams would still be 180* from each other, but in relation to the crank, they would be slightly mis-aligned. Then, the disty would also be off from the true crank angle. That could cause issues I would think. I think the only real way to settle this would be to count ribs on the belts, and see which sprocket orientation matches what the FSM says, just like GD mentioned a few posts ago. I have an 87 SPFI engine buried in my shed I could try this on, unless someone else beats me to it. -Dave

hmm, I just looked in my '85 FSM, and it says the 'No. 2' sprocket, goes on first, closest to the engine. It also does not say how to specify the difference between the two. Also, I have the two sprockets off a pre-87 MPFI turbo block. One sprocket has the dowel pin, and the other has the ID Dot. The hole the dowel pin is in, is slightly smaller than all the other holes. Other than that, the two sprockets I have are identical to the ones Will posted earlier, and put in place with the dowel pin to the outside, looks like the 'wrong' picture in the first post. The scan of the 89 FSM available online, on page 160, just says the sprocket with the dowel pin is the outermost one -Dave

take a small jumper wire and jump 12v to the small spade connection on the back of the starter (after removing the plug on it). If it cranks over just fine, you're dropping too much voltage in the starting circuit, or the connection to that spade plug is bad, and may need to be redone with a blue spade connector. Had this happen on two friends' cars recently. -Dave

so in theory, for any of us wanting to verify our sprockets are on correctly, we can just remove the clutch fan, and remove the crank pulley off. Then, if we see the dot in the sprocket, we'll know everything is fine. If we don't see the dot, we'll know they're backwards, right? -Dave (have a feeling they're backwards on my 88GL, getting some pinging under load, and everything else is fine)

FWIW, I took two extra sprockets I have, lined them up per WJMs instructions, and they look just like the picture BGD posted. If I put them backwards, they are drastically different than BGDs pictures. -Dave

the temp sensor next to the CTS with one prong on it is the gauge for the dash, so that's what that gauge isn't working. The blinking light after driving with the greens connected is telling you it didn't find any codes. If it came on solid, then it found codes. -Dave

again, try adding a better ground to the wiper motor body I had the same problem with the intermittent wipers, and fixed it without going under the dash at all. If nothing else, it's a quick check and possible solution. -Dave

Add another ground from the wiper motor body to the car body. I've fixed intermittents on my 88 GL by doing this, and fixed the wipers that didn't work at all on an 85 wagon. -Dave

my roof does the same thing, after my 180# brother decided to see if the roof would hold him The hard part will be removing the trim on the pillars, then removing the head liner. Actually fixing the bent supports across the roof should be fairly easy. -Dave

ahh, ok, this is the first carbed car I've really worked on. Thanks, -Dave

I have an 85 CA wagon I'm working on for a friend, and from what I've seen, it looks like the vacuum advance is on the 'outer' vacuum port on the disty? At least that's the one that changes the idle when I remove it. The 'inside' port doesn't change the idle at all when removed. Thanks, -Dave

99% sure it's the IAC acting up. I recently got rid of bad hesitation and bogging right after start up by cleaning/lubricating it. Search for "IAC " (with the space and quotes), should find plenty of info on it. -Dave

I've averaged ~6000 miles/year in my '88 GL since I got it in 2000. My wife has averaged ~10k/year in her '91 loyale since she got it in 2002. However, we both work at home now, and are done with college, so our mileage will drop dramatically (and the gas bill ) -Dave

to test and see if it is the fuel system losing pressure, turn the key to 'run' and hold it there for a couple seconds. Do that a few times then try to start it That should pressurize the system and let you know if that's why it cranks so long. If it still cranks a long time, I'd bet the CTS is having issues. -Dave

order SOA #22630 AA000 from 1stsubaruparts.com It'll run you $33.10 IIRC. Or, I could sell you the one I got when I intended to get a CTS for a normal EA82 -Dave

how did you test your IAC valve? I used to have pretty bad bogging when cold. Took off the IAC, cleaned out the valve portion of it with carb cleaner, then sprayed some silicon lubricant into the solenoid portion of it. Haven't had any bogging since (tip: to remove the IAC, use vice grips to break the four screws loose and get them by hand after that) -Dave

yea, if I was closer than, oh, 12 hours from there, I'd fix it up for her... however... jk: I'll call her in a little bit and get back to you, -Dave

Thanks for the offers guys; I'll call her today and see what she'd want for it. I should also mention it has ~265k on it, and I replaced the HGs about 10k ago. I'm also pretty sure it can't be driven (safely) right now with the brakes how they are. I'm also not sure what all the dealer has taken off it right now. -Dave