hooziewhatsit

there should be a vacuum line going from the canister to the intake manifold. From the other side of the canister should go across the back on the engine bay and into the dash. If you don't hear any vacuum leaks from the dash (inside the car), I'd guess the problem is under the hood.

if you pull off the air cleaner housing, look down the tube towards the throttle body. The MAF is in a little hole with two tiny wires inside it. Since I cleaned mine, the mileage may have gone up a tiny bit. It's doing about 34mpg recently, although I would probably attribute most of that to slowing down (55-60 instead of 60-65). For the longest time I was stuck right around 30mpg.

I'd say it's the Idle Air Control solenoid like you suggested. A search on 'IAC' or similar should yield quite a few hits. it's been recommended by some as being something that should receive occasional cleaning.

Cool! Also, It'd be best if you could drive a while (couple hundred miles, give or take) and re-tighten the axle nuts. They seem to take a while to move around to their 'final' position, so to prevent this happening again, it's best to re-torque them again later. -Dave

I tried some MAF sensor cleaner on my 88 GL before a long road trip I'm still currently on. It didn't get rid of some noise I have under heavy load, but it does seem to have helped my mileage. I have almost 400 miles on this tank, and it's still showing 1/4 tank left I'll know exact numbers later today. Other than that, it seems to have helped a low speed stuttering I'd get when releasing the clutch from a start. Not sure though. -Dave

thanks for the replies guys, I'll have to leave it to my parents/brother to do the dissassembly. It's nice knowing exactly what needs to be done before tearing into it. Thanks, -Dave

Does anyone know how to remove the lock cylinder from an '82 (I think), EA81 wagon, with tilt wheel? The key won't turn over at all. Right now, we just want the lock cylinder off so we can undo the steering lock to move it. We're trying to decide if we want to keep the car, so we're not going to pay for a locksmith to come look at it. In the picture linked below, the red circles are the tamper proof bolts, I believe. I think I read these can either be drilled out, or maybe carefully threaded out. The blue circles however, appear to come from the back of the steering column into the lock cylinder. I presume they have to be removed also? There are 4 total, 2 on each side. I have the dash partially apart, and it looks like those 4 will be semi-difficult to remove. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12861&cat=855 So, I guess I have to figure out how to remove the 4 bolts, in addition to the two tamper proof ones? Any other bolts I'm not seeing that also need removed? Any other tips? Thanks, -Dave

yep, I put Redline 75w90NS in mine. Made a world of difference. I still need to double clutch to downshift nicely, but at least I can shift at all now.

d'oh, that sounds just like my 88 GL. I've replaced the EGR solenoid with known good ones, with resistors, checked the wires between the solenoid and the computer (good), looked around in the computer, and I still get a code for it Soooo... I've just resigned to having my CEL on, and occasionally I check it for any other codes. This works since we don't have vehicle inspections where I live (yet).

I've seen pictures of using a spare cam sprocket, two bolts through two of the existing holes, and a handle welded to it. This is something I've never actually done (tensioning them properly) My car has 30K on the current set of belts so far.

Ditto, I bought a couple EA82s from a guy in Talent, OR (near ashland) a while ago. He calls me up today, 85 wagon, d/r 5spd (I think), runs, clean title, decent shape, 300k miles, $300. He seems to have no end to them, and let's me know when he has them. If only I had more time & money... sigh...

Canada? THAT would be fun to see the officials at the borders looks. <line of 10+ old subarus show up> immigration guy -

d'oh, that's what I meant. know & control the input and output shaft rotation speeds, and you'll know exactly when to shift. However the benefit of such a system....

I think to do it right, you'd also have to monitor both the engine RPM, as well as the driveshaft/front axle output rotation. Having those, you could control the engine RPM to perfectly match input/output rotation, and make all your shifts silky smooth. No synchros FTW! A friend who worked on diesel trucks was telling me about a automatic transmission they've come out with that does just that. He said the transmission was incredibly smooth compared to a normal human driver. -Dave

make sure you have the latest version of macromedia/Adobe flash player installed on your computer. That should at least let you view it online. I think you should be able to get it here http://www.macromedia.com/software/flash/about/

here's a video of one of your hill climbs on the surveyors ridge trail run http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12693&cat=907 and a video of Subarujunkie doing the same one http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12694&cat=907 I would have posted a video of my stock 88 wagon doing it, but it's a quicktime movie, and the site won't accept it. I'll have to find somewhere else to host it.

yea, follow the procedure Numbchux spelled out first, then make sure the disty is correct by checking it compared to the passenger side cam dot.

I've put a few up here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=907 including a big panorama from the Surveyors Ridge trail run led by Scoobyclimbs (thanks man, that run was fun!) I'll get some more up later -Dave

how did you make sure you got the distributor back in the right place? To check it: rotate the engine by hand until the passenger side cam dot is pointing due North-West (10:30 o'clock) There, the rotor should be pointing right at the #1 plug. Using that method should get you at least close enough that it will run, and you can check it with a light. Also, the cams are 180* from each other, right?

In this thread is a PDF to the guide that shows how to test the resistances in it, as well as where to make the switch in it open compared to throttle position. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24997&highlight=throttle+position +sensor

Here's me on the surveyors ridge trail run sat. morning. Parked next to WBM, with GD still talking in the background -Dave

looks like I'll be able to make it See you guys at the Subway at noon. I'll be in an 88GL wagon, silver, with a badly faded hood

There's some good troubleshooting of the vacuum system in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55908&highlight=4WD+vacuum+solenoid Welcome to the board!

traffic shouldn't be too bad during the Hood to Coast.. just plan on doing 45ish rather 60ish. I have to drop my wife off at my parents in welches before heading to the show (I don't think she'd have much fun there). So, I was planning to get to hood river over 35 if it's open, but Lolo pass would be fun as well.

Just a couple FYIs... The weekend of the show is the same weekend as the Hood to Coast relay, so if you're heading over Hwy 26 from 97, be prepared for some slow going. Also, Hwy 35 between 26 and Hood River is currently closed due to a wildfire near the road. Quickest route from Southern Oregon/K Falls would probably be up 97 to 84, then West to Hood River. Personally, I'm not sure when/what route I'm going to take to the show.