hooziewhatsit

the solenoid in the center of your second picture is the purge control solenoid. (it could be you need both of them) The EGR is behind and below that one. Find the EGR valve itself on the back of the intake track, and follow the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid. The EGR solenoid also has a white connector, compared to the Black connector for the PCS.

I think you're on the right track with a new/cleaned IAC/IAV (Idle air control valve) Also double check and make sure all the vacuum hoses are nice and snug.

the more I think about it... GD is probably right... However, can/did you check to see if those lifters 'stuck out' as much as the other three on each side? I suppose they could each be collapsed, preventing the cam from holding the rocker in place... long shot.. but worth checking I guess...

Once the cam towers are completely bolted down, the rockers shouldn't be able to fall off at all when the cam rotates? Or is it drivers side down, passenger side up, if you don't want to spin the engine in the middle? Anywho, once the belts are on, the way I prefer to stab the disty: Crank the engine until the passenger side cam dot is pointing due North-West. Now, put the disty in so it's pointing to the #1 plug wire, and has some adjustment in either direction. That should get you close enough to start it and check it with a timing light.

Rotate the engine 360*, so the cam rotates 180*

if they're both out of an SPFI engine, they *should* work. You may have to swap the connectors on them as well. Just unscrew the cover from the disty (two screws on the bottom), then pop the harness out to switch them.

You'll want to get some heavy/thick grease. Apply fairly liberaly to the two points the rockers touch the HLA and the valve. That should give you enough time to slip the cam tower on before they fall off. When you put the cam tower on, make sure the cam dot (or key pin) is straight up. In that position, none of the valves are compressed, so the tower should slip on completely. If the key is pointing some other direction, you'll probably have one valve trying to be compressed, allowing another rocker to slip off, etc... big PITA. btw, the rocker is the little piece of metal you're fighting to keep in place, and the lobes are the bumps on the camshaft

check/replace the entire PCV system, from the valve on the back of the throttle body to all the hoses. I bet they're clogged full of crap. I've the best place to get the PCV valve is at the dealer. I believe they call it an 'air control valve' or such (just make sure you get the right part, I got the 'T' part once by accident)

does your horn work? I believe it's on the same fuse as the ECU. However.. the bad smell doesn't sound good either way.... I don't know what the differences are between the part numbers... but I wouldn't mind finding out.

If this is the picture you wanted, let me know, and I can get do a better quality scan later today if wanted. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=11200&cat=855 (edit: should be able to save the picture locally, and zoom in more if needed)

yep, to check this, remove both front hubcaps, put the car back in 2WD, put the ebrake on, then 'drive' while a friend watches the castle nut on the end of each axle. If one spins independently of the wheel, that hub is stripped, so you'll need a new hub at the very least.

You'll probably want to check for any play in the water pump also. Depending on how long it was run without water, the bearings could have been toasted. Just pull up/down, left/right on the fan and feel for any movement. There shouldn't be any at all.

almost sounds like it could be the idle air control valve (IAC). Some searches should show where it is, and that it can get gunked up and need cleaning.

I'd also check/replace the coolant temp sensor. It's on the thermostat housing, and is the sensor with a two wire pig-tail. Be sure to check the connections and make sure they're clean and not corroded.

You may have to remove the lower kick panel the first time, just to get a good idea of where it is. So, remove the panel that your knees are closest to, and look for a black metal box, roughly 8"x8"x2". On one edge will be a hole, with an LED just inside it. When you turn the key to 'on', it should blink 5-7 times, unless there are codes, then you'll have to count the long/short pulses. Once you know where it is, you can put the kick panel back on. In my car, I can just flex the panel a bit to see through the steering wheel to where the LED is.

my initial guess is the throttle position sensor. Next time when the CEL comes on, pull over (in a safe place), leave the car on, and look right under the steering column for a flashing LED. Count the long pulses and short pulses, and let us know what they are. More info on pulling codes is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html you could also connect the white (or black) connectors under the hood, then read the stored codes from the LED.

before you mount the speakers in the rear hatch, set them on top when it's open and make sure the shocks will still hold it up. May want to try this on a cold morning as well. I've heard stories of people who have added speakers, just for the hatch to not stay open by itself any more. other than that, be sure to let us know how well the spray dappening stuff in the doors works.

I repaired a HG on an '87 wagon (non-turbo) that smoked badly for quite a while after the repair. It really pumped out if I reved it. The smoke was all white, maybe a tiny bit of blue (I think). Eventually it stopped smoking once everything was burned off, and has run fine since. and yes, it did sort of freak me out until it finally stopped smoking ymmv -Dave (ps, cylinder 3 blew, for those keeping track)

The switch itself is circled in Red. Let me know if you want a bigger picture.

do you want the solenoid on the side of the transmission, or a picture of the switch near the gas pedal? I have two 3ATs lying outside I can take pictures of, but no car here at the moment.

unless it's in my loyale, in which case the darned clutch switch prevents this (I should probably disable the switch so this can be done) but yes, it is a good thing to know about and use when needed.

I get the same thing in my 88 GL. At low speeds, right after start up, it acts like the car wants to bog down & die, unless I flutter the clutch. I'm pretty sure it isn't the CTS, but I don't mind changing it out if I had to. I replaced the TPS a few months ago with one from a junkyard, and it seemed to help. How exactly/what do we look for with a vacuum test while cold? edit: oh yea, my EGR solenoid is also broken. Going to disconnect the vacuum line to it at some point

ditto. I'd replace the cable, get it adjusted, and go from there. I believe, once a clutch is worn out, even if it is adjusted properly, it will still slip. In your case, since you say you had to put the pedal to the floor to disengage it, it sounds like it's just way out of adjustment, or your cable was really stretching.

Another thing you should check are the front ball joints. They died on my 91 loyale, so whenever you hit the gas the car pulled one way, and when you let off the gas it pulled the other way

it may be easiest if you called them and asked them to look it up.