hooziewhatsit

are you sure that the teeth on the wiper arm didn't just get stripped off? I believe that's designed to fail if it tries to move too much weight. If you can move the wiper arm by itself, the teeth are just stripped and you need another arm. Otherwise... I'm not sure exactly how to get the motor out.

The washer should be slightly curved. One side being concave, and the other convex. The concave side goes toward the cone washer and the hub. The convex side goes toward the axle nut.

ouch! http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm is a bit cheaper... $5.75 w/o core, $4.50 with core.

Here's the procedure to test the TPS http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24997&highlight=throttle+position+sensor (well, a pdf in that thread) If you want to replace it and you have AC.... I found it was easiest to take a file and make some clearance on the AC compressor. You only need about a quarter inch off the corner of it to be able to slide the TPS off, versus removing the fan, alternator, unbolting the compressor, so you have 1/4" of clearance. You/your mechanic will see what I mean when you look at it.

how old are your ignition components (cap/rotor/plugs/wires, etc)? After that, I'd guess that the TPS has a bad spot(s) in it. I recently got rid of some low speed bogging I had by replacing the TPS with a junkyard one.

The connector you want will be green, single pole, and under the hood near the wiper motor in the rear driver side of the compartment. There will also be a set of white (or black) connectors with them. These are for checking stored codes on the ECU.

also, once you get it most of the way screwed in, you will need to 'fine tune' it by turning in/out so that the nipple on the brake pad lines up with one of the gaps in the piston. That will allow it to swing all the way down, after you've screwed it in far enough to have some clearance.

if the disty is anything like the experience I had with one that failed... it worked for a couple days, then I couldn't reliably start the car after that. Put a new disty in and it fired right up, and has been fine since. So... that being said, it probably wouldn't be a bad thing to have a spare one in the car just in case (and maybe a timing light) IIRC, there should be a rubber seal on the disty to cap connection to help it stay dry? Does yours still have that? I'd try to get the wetness issue cleared up soon, then go from there (like you said you would).

for the inner belt, I've found it helps to swing the tensioner pulley into the fully retracted position and snug it down so it's not flopping around, then it's easier to get the belt around it. (and then buy another set of belts and put them in the back cubby hole. Sucks breaking a belt in the middle of nowhere)

actually, the fan and resistor pack are just above the passenger side kick panel. All you need to remove to get to them is the passenger side kick panel. My loyale a while ago had both problems... bad resistors, and a bad switch. Replaced both with parts from a junkyard and it's been fine since.

can't help ya beyond this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/heatercore/heatercore.html

once you get the door panel off, it should start making sense what's wrong... to get the panel off: -pop off screw covers on elbow rest, and unscrew & remove. -pop off plastic thing behind door handle (kinda weird the first time, after that it's quick) -if you have electric windows, just unpop the edge of the door panel away from the door. -If you have manual windows, find a wire and put a hook on one end. Feed that behind the window crank and pull the clip out. The crank comes off after that, and you can unsnap the door panel. Once the outside of the door panel is loose, it will pull off the top edge. May have to remove the plastic triangle inside of the mirror. That just slides straight up with some persuasion.

sounds just like my 91 loyale did when the timing was at 0* TDC Setting the time made it sound/run much happier :-)

the CTS is below the thermostat, coming out parallel to the ground. Has a pigtail with two connectors on it. This one is for the computer. There is another temp sensor close to the same location coming out at an angle, that just has a single terminal on it. That one is for the dash gauge. First thing you should probably do is make sure the connections are clean (on both of them). Often the one for the computer will be nasty green & corroded, and will probably solve most of the problem by cleaning it.

the front calipers have to be screwed back in, do no use a C-clamp to push them back in, you'll need new calipers after that. I believe you have to screw them in clockwise. (when I have a 50/50 chance I'm wrong 90% of the time. Can someone verify this?) I've had the best luck undoing the brake line, taking the caliper out of the car, and bracing it somewhere while I screwed them back in. It's possible to screw them back in without undoing the brake line/bleeder, but it will be harder to screw in (it's hard enough as it is). edit: everything you need to know http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27266&highlight=caliper+rotation

I had my hose on the back of the throttle body develop a little hole in it. Would only leak while driving, and then the evidence would be evaporated before I could look at it. While taking that hose off one time, I tweaked it just right and got it to squirt out the hole in it. It got replaced later that day. So... give those coolant lines a good little tugging/pushing around on, just to make sure they are/aren't the culprit(s).

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html basically, you connect the clear/white connectors, turn the key to on, then start counting pulses from the LED in the computer. The connectors will either be under the dash like you mentioned, or under the hood by the wiper motor. Your problem sounds like it may be related to the coolant temp sensor (CTS). Is it hard to start all the time? Just when it's cold or hot? When was the last time it had a tuneup (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)?

ditto. besides, after the car stalls in the road/intersection, how are you going to drive it out on the starter? (just one benefit of not having the lockout)

it's normally 2WD, and only goes to 4wd if you put it there. That said, if the rules require removing the driveline to ensure that you don't use 4WD, I would recommend taking out one or both rear axles instead. If you take out the driveline, you'll leak ATF, and the driveline needs the rear diff in place to hold it in place.

sounds like the idle air control valve (IAC). Do a search for it, you should find more than you'd ever want to know about it It's a common problem with the valve that needs occasional cleaning. Also good to check all the other stuff you mentioned (disty cap, rotor, plugs, etc) (hint, search for ' IAC* ' and you'll get more hits)

how does the fluid in it look? burned at all? It should be a bright red, not a dark red. These trannies are very picky about the quality _and_ quantity of fluid in them.

oh yea, also check your coolant hoses, and either replace them or carry an extra set. A couple months ago my wife split the upper radiator hose about 6" long.... would've sucked to be in the middle of nowhere when it happened.

part # 11810AA000 from the dealer. They call it an 'air control valve' I believe... If you ask for the PCV valve, you'll get the plastic T instead. Cost me $9. Going to put it my friends car today that's been drinking/burning oil like crazy.

for sure have extras of the accessory belts... tbelts also (if you need them). It's no fun blowing a belt at 4:30 on a friday just outside of spokane... ask how I know, lol also, make sure the pressure in your spare tire is good. I've checked mine before and it didn't even register on the pressure gauge :eek (friendly reminder to everyone else as well) Other than that... all the common sockets/wrenches, and you should be able to fix most common problems you may come across.

what he said ^^^, Also, I'd also make sure that the line from the overflow tank to the radiator is clear from any blockage. I have heard about at least one blown HG from overheating because the person assumed this hose was open when it wasn't. Might be worth getting another rad cap while you're at it. And a compression test would be good thing to get done as well. When you go to refill the system, get the nose of the car pretty much as high as you can (within reason) as you refill it and let it run until the fan comes on once.