hooziewhatsit

Yep, have both cam 'dots' up to begin with. Put the drivers side belt on, crank the engine over Once, then put the passenger side belt on. The cams are now 180* from each other. oh yea, may want to verify the distributor position also, to do this, get both belts on, then crank the engine so the passenger side cam dot is point NorthWest. At that point, the rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug on the cap (closest to the hill-holder spring/master cylinder)

My first impression is/was a bad distributor :-/ Take the cap off, and see if there is any play in the shaft side to side (may need to take the rotor off to tell). If there is noticeable play you'll have to get it rebuilt or just buy one from a junkyard. It's been my experience thus far that a jumpy tach is either bad disty or bad wiring (grounds around coil)

chances are the driver side timing belt stripped some teeth, or otherwise broke. here's a quick test: Take off the distributor cap, and have a friend crank it over briefly. If the rotor does not spin, either a) the screw holding it place came out, or your drivers side timing belt is stripped/broken (most likely) If the rotor doesn't spin, you'll just have to replace the timing belts. The engine is non-interferance, so no worries about bent valves.

about the grinding on the drivers side... First, like s'ko said, make sure the axle nut is good and TIGHT. Then, if it still does it, pull the hub/rotor off, and inspect the splines on it. If the splines are sharp, they're worn down and you'll need a new hub. If they have big flat tops, that's good. <---- had to replace a hub with those same conditions

So it sounds like you got the two screws out that hold in the actual HVAC controls? (screw below the Defrost & Off buttons) There should be another screw under the lower lip holding the rear wiper switch in. After that, there just some 'clips' molded into the dash fascia around the center vents. Often they need quite a bit of persuasion to come loose.

We're still at least a couple months out now I'd guess... my company just got our first 'sale' last week, so we're working on getting everything ready for it. It could potentially lead to at least 1,000 units a year (or more!!) of a different product, so this project has been sidelined temporarily :-\

The one EA81 oil pump I've removed... ended up using two pry-bars to 'pry' it out. It took hardly any force at all, and was more the effect of being pulled straight out than large amounts of force.

+1 I sprung a leak in that little hose... while taking it off the second time I tweaked it just right so the pin hole opened and squirted water out. If you don't know when the hoses were last changed... I'd strongly recommend you change all of them. I thought the hoses on my 91 loyale were fine... not too long after that the upper rad hose BLEW UP (6" long tear). Got to replace the water pump after that one. anyway, that's my 0.15 (VAT included)

yep, if the green connectors are connected, after a few minutes of driving the CEL will flash if there's nothing wrong.

For normal operation, they should not be plugged in. I believe, having them plugged in during normal driving essentially tells the ECU to keep doing it's diagnostic on all it's sensors. Which one? the one about finding TDC of the crank and cams? I'm actually not exactly sure where the timing marks put the crank & cam, I just know it doesn't work to use anything but the 3 dash marks on the flywheel (as opposed to the actual TDC degree marks)

Technically, the crank bolt is 22mm :-P (<---- has known fastenova for wayyyy too long )

I've had good luck doing this, but instead connecting the green test connectors, turning the key to On, and letting the gas pulse out.

Here are some things to check: Distributor position: -take off the passenger side TBelt cover (if it isn't already) and crank the engine by hand so that the timing mark on the cam points North-West (45* Left of straight up). At this point, the rotor should point to the #1 plug on the cap. If it doesn't, then the disty is 180* out. Firing order 1, 3, 2, 4, CCW around the cap, #1 is closest to the brake booster/hill holder spring (should also be marked)

I've always aligned the crank to the middle mark for both belts. Has worked just fine so far.

You said you replaced the timing belts? Did you try starting it before doing that? When you did them, did you crank the engine over once inbetween each belt, so the cams are 180* from each other?

sounds similar to what happened to one of my cars a while back, while I wasn't driving it :-/ You'll want to check for any play in the water pump. Mine was run long enough that it fried the water pump, but thankfully, nothing else. I also had a slight 'hum' afterwards which was fixed with a new water pump. The temp gauge weirdness is probably a bad ground(s) somewhere.

The 85 Turbo I sold to a friend had the green ones under the dash, and the white/black ones under the hood. Also, to read current codes, you just need to turn the key to on and count flashes. Just need the whites if you want to see the stored codes.

yep, you're looking in the right place. The little hose that comes towards you, and doesn't go anywhere is the problem. It needs to be plugged into the intake manifold. There's probably another little hose that should match it hanging loose somewhere. You'll want to look on the passenger side of the engine for a similar sized hose. It should be there somewhere. Same thing happened to me after getting a tranny fluid change at Oil Can Henry's (long time ago). Found the dangling hose, hooked them up, and had defrost again Edit: got beat by two guys.. who included pictures :cool:

I would also run a new ground to somewhere in the engine bay. Doing that got rid of my herky-jerky intermittent wipers on my 88 GL.

One time someone went by my passenger mirror... broke it right off That's right.. hanging by the wires... $8 and junkyard trip later

hmm.. hadn't thought too much about doing that... was just planning on having user set thresholds to turn & off. could most likely be added if so desired...

Development is humming along nicely. Still at least a month out or so at the very earliest. It will come with thorough instructions. It should also come with most everything you need to install it (all wires, fittings, etc). As for installing it... for the CTS we're planning to find a plug that will replace the current dash CTS that has our sensor in it. For oil temp, you can either shove the probe down the dipstick tube (not recommended) or drill & tap the oil pan to fit a special sensor/bolt we'll make and provide. Same with the exhaust temp. Other than those, it will be mostly 'stick this sensor there, that one there' kind of stuff. As for wiring, you'll just have to splice and/or make new connections to power.

it actually sounds more like you need to adjust the clutch rather than replace it (at this point at least). Once the clutch engages at the middle of the clutch pedal travel and still slips, then I'd say you're about due for a new clutch. Try some searches on how to adjust the clutch, as I bet there are better descriptions written then I could type out right now

A couple years ago the cat element at the junction of the Y pipe in my 88 GL came loose and tried to squeeze itself out the back of the car. Needless to say, it didn't work and killed my power (35mph+? ha) Anywho, I cut open that cat, took the element out, and welded it shut again. I still have the second cat a little farther back. I used to get ~30mpg. I still get ~30mpg. Power is pretty much the same also. YMMV

if you only have a couple broken lines, it's really not that hard to find the break and fix it. Just run a voltage meter/test light down each line until the voltage changes from 12v->0v (or vice-versa). I have no idea if they make aftermarket rear defrost grids; I'm guessing not.