hooziewhatsit

hmm... assuming the cable itself isn't frozen in it's sleeve, and everything on the flapper side is still fine, it may be that the cable right at the slider has a kink in it, and doesn't want to go down it's sleave. Once you get to where you can see the side of the temp controls, you'll see a pinch joint that grabs the sleave. You may just have to loosen that and pull the sleave farther up. Won't know until you dig into it though :-\

hmm, are the plastic threads all bunged up? On one occasion (before I knew you could just transfer the cable ) I carefully cut the threaded portion off one cable (long vertical cut), and put it on the good cable. -Dave

On the end of the speedo cable is a flat head that has to match a groove in the transmission. I've found it's easiest to pull the cable out, insert it in the groove in the transmission, then try to screw on the plastic housing. ymmv, -Dave

WAG = Wild @ss Guess, followed closely by a SWAG, Scientific wild.... As for a WAG from me... maybe the IAC needs cleaned, as it's not responding as fast as it should?

that hose goes to the idle air control valve (IAC). It shouldn't have anything in it (??) During idle, (or when the throttle plate is closed), air is allowed around the throttle plate through the IAC. Not sure why it's popping off though. You can replace the current 'clamp' with a normal hose clamp. -Dave

interesting, the one time I had it happen was on FI *shrug* -Dave

You said the tach started jumping all around... the only time I've had that happen was when the distributor was going out/already dead I hope that is isn't it, but you might want to throw a spare one in your car before your trip tomorrow. It sounds like the car started back up after it stalled? -Dave

use a pair of vice-grips to break the bolts loose. After that you can usually get them by hand. When I cleaned mine, I also took off the solenoid (two small screws), shot some silicon into it, then actuated it a couple times (jumped 12v to it). Then I used carb cleaner on the inner portion of it, and spun the valve around to make sure nothing held it open. You may be able to get away with just taking off just the solenoid portion, and leave the valve body attached to the throttle body, but would be best to clean everything at once. -Dave

sounds like a sticky Idle air controller to me. Do some searches for "IAC " and you should find more than enough info on it. I also had bad stumbling off idle when cold until I cleaned mine up. Since then it's been just about perfect -Dave

on the back side of the backing plate should be a small rectangular rubber piece (at least a hole where one would fit). Take it out, then use a small screwdriver to push straight in. That should release the tension on the brake shoes, and allow you to remove the hub. As the hub wears, it develops a small rim along the edge that the shoes can hang up on. So, you want to retract the shoes below this rim. -Dave

for anyone else interested, I found a thread talking about this coctail, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949794 I've had ATF in my tranny for ~1000 miles, and am about ready to change it out to normal gear fluid. Still not sure if I want to go this route, just redline 75w90NS, or plain old GL5. -Dave

my BILs car had an intermittent fuel pump issue for a few months before I finally tracked it down. In his case it would usually start when warm, not when cold. So, I thought it was a CTS issue. However, he was able to start the car by push-starting it (must've bumped the fuel pump). Since I put a different pump in he hasn't had any issues. Only thing I can figure is that when the pump stopped in a certain place, it would catch, and not want to start pumping again until it was jostled around a bit. Next time it doesn't want to work, connect the greens, then go tap (bang) on the pump with a hammer. If it starts pumping, it's the pump and not the wiring/FPCU. -Dave

yea, EA82, so you have tbelts. Pop the distributor cap off and make sure that: it spins when a friend cranks it over, and the screw holding the rotor in place hasn't come out. -dave

to see if the fuel pump even works; connect the green connectors under the hood turn the key to 'on' (don't start it) listen for clicking every second or so under the hood, the fuel pump should also pulse in the same rythym. If it isn't, try tapping (hitting) it. The fuel pump is right infront of the passenger rear tire. If you have trouble finding it, do this same procedure on your car that we know works. -Dave

To get it out of 4WD, you should be able to just reverse the vacuum lines on the vacuum solenoids. After that, you may have to drive backwards to help remove any binding in the drivetrain. You'll probably hear a loud clunk when it does disengage. As an aside, if your pushbutton operates backwards, ie, pushed in is 2WD, not 4WD, you just need to reverse the vacuum lines on the solenoids going to the tranny. -Dave

I've had a couple intermittent no starts caused by a bad connection to the spade on the starter. After replacing the connection from the harness with a standard 'blue' spade connector, the problem went away. Not saying the problem isn't elsewhere in the starting circuit though, just throwing out a potential quick fix. -Dave

Sounds like that disty was shot! Glad you got it working.

it sounds like you've done everything right so far your firing order is correct, as are your cylinder numbers. Surefire way from the FSM to align the distributor: -Remove passenger side timing belt cover -rotate engine by hand so the cam dot is at 10:30 o'clock (other big holes will be at the cardinal directions) -Put disty in, with rotor pointing to #1 plug = nearest to the hill-holder spring (should be marked on the cap also) That being said, you should be close enough after aligning the flywheel to 0* after feeling air coming out of cylinder 1. Oh yea, the firing order 1, 3, 2, 4, goes counter-clockwise around the cap. After that, you should be able to adjust the disty slightly both ways until it starts. good luck, -Dave

I had a problem in my 91 loyale when both ball joints were shot. Hitting the gas would make it swerve one direction, and letting off the gas it go the opposite direction. Not sure if it'll help in your case, but thought I'd throw it out there. -dave

Welcome to the board. Sounds like your rims are rusted onto the hubs I think a BFH or some swift kicking on the tire is in order, as they should come right off with all four lugnuts removed. -Dave

I'm still planning on doing this.. even have the PCBs almost done being designed... unfortunately, other (paying) products have gotten in the way of development on this product I'll see if I can find the time to get some more done on it. -Dave

That's most likely it. Now just look for the vacuum line coming off the white canister, and plug it back into the intake. Everything should start working after that. -Dave

Does it have a square-ish black two prong connector? If so, that's the Purge control solenoid (PCS). Car will run just fine without it plugged in, but will throw a CEL (35, IIRC). Probably best to get another one somwhere; junkyard will be the cheapest. Can even find a different solenoid and swap the connector between the two. -Dave oh yea, to search 3 letter terms, try CTS* or "CTS " (with the quotes, and extra space)

... when the steering gets surprisingly light...

yes, the pumps themselves are the same, it's just the height of the shaft that makes the difference. GLoyale: Are you sure you don't have the two backwards? I was under the impression that AC inside of the Alternator was factory AC. I had to replace the WP on my 91 loyale (with AC) this summer, but don't remember how tall the WP was. I'll see if I can find the old one and measure it. -Dave