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hooziewhatsit

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Everything posted by hooziewhatsit

  1. Also, the axle will only go on one way and still let the roll pin through. Often it can be 180* off, and it will start to go in, and get stuck. -Dave
  2. IIRC, there are two drain plugs under each head. One BIG one (~2") with the 14mm hex socket, and another 14mm bolt. It sounds like he's trying to tap into the latter one. -Dave
  3. Hey Ben, I finally checked the gmail thread and replied there last night also. Glad you got it figured out -Dave
  4. Probably talking about these guys: http://www.ramengines.com/index.html
  5. heh heh, that same thing has happened to me several times, on a few different cars Locktite will be fine to use. I believe it was in '87 they had a keyed distributor shaft. You can take the cover off and swap out the top of the shaft. Find a keyed rotor, and that will never happen again -Dave
  6. Sounds like the drivers side timing belt stripped some teeth, or otherwise snapped. Take the distributor cap off and see if the rotor spins when you crank it. Also make sure the rotor screw is still in place. -Dave
  7. Yep, sounds to me like a sticky thermostat. I thought I had those part numbers, but I don't :-\ -Dave
  8. To find the relays, as you're sitting the drivers seat, reach under the dash, to the left of the wheel, and feel back towards yourself. You probably won't be able to be sitting there and do, but that's the best way to describe where they are. It will be with a group of three other relays (two are the headlight, and the last in the rear defroster, IIRC).
  9. somewhere around the edge of the lock cylinder should be a small pin you can push in with a paper clip. That will release the cylinder, so it slides out nicely. -Dave
  10. You'll either need to swap the old compressor over (make sure the mounts are at least the same before you take it all apart). Or, find an AC shop and see if they can make some custom hoses. Since you'll need to refill the system, and can't use R12 anymore, you'll also need to find an R134A retrofit kit to do it. Or, you can just leave it all unhooked and not have AC. Edit: If you do leave it unhooked, be sure to disconnect the wires to the compressor. If it turns on, it will fry the compressor in short order. -Dave
  11. It sounds to me like your problem is probably in the HVAC controls/slider assembly. IIRC, it's normal for the AC compressor to run in some positions. I believe it's to 'dry' the air and aid in defrosting the windshield. I think your second picture looks normal. -Dave
  12. Correct, that shouldn't be any worse than your laptop. On the power supply for your laptop, it should list it's output voltage and current (max, not typical). Using the same calculation from CNY_Dave, you can add the total wattage up and compare to the rated output from the inverter. -Dave
  13. My first HG job I pulled the engine for (also a first). If (when?) I do it again, I'll pull the engine again. To remove the old gasket material from the block, go to Napa, and ask for the 'scotch brite pad you can put in a drill'. Makes VERY quick work of removing the old stuff. -Dave
  14. I believe you're looking at the heat shield around the exhaust. So nothing to worry about with that crack. The actual exhaust pipe is inside, and likely intact. However, I did notice it looks like you're missing one of the two bolts holding the exhaust to the head. That could be causing the exhaust leak/sound you're hearing. Oil leak from the headgasket? umm, not so much. Take a can of degreaser and clean the bottom of the engine. Then go out every few days and try to see where it's coming from. My bet would be the valve cover gasket. -Dave
  15. Try adding another ground to the wiper motor body. -Dave
  16. My brother removed the steering lock from his EA81 wagon also. If you remove the lower plastic cover, there will be an 1" or so diameter hole with a plate (freeze plug like) going up into the steering column, right under the lock cylinder. The locking mechanism is in there. He used a variety of tools to punch the plate out, then most the locking stuff just fell out. ymmv, -Dave
  17. The other thing I've done is take the solenoid off the valve, and spray some lubricating stuff into the solenoid. -Dave
  18. When you put the calipers on, did you put grease on the 1/2" mount it pivots on? If not, that could be sticking, causing your problems. I'd also take the tire off and make sure that boot isn't torn allowing dirt in there. -Dave
  19. I think azsubaru has the right idea; look up topics on the idle air control valve "IAC ". When they get dirty they cause the exact problem you're having. -Dave
  20. Make sure you disconnected the green connectors under the hood. If you drive with them connected, it goes into a diagnostic mode, and I believe the blinking CEL means it came back clean. -Dave
  21. Make sure your horn works. The ECU is on the same circuit (fuse #5). Rest of the fuses are just over your left knee inside. Also make sure the rotor turns when you crank it. Teeth can strip off the belt, so it looks good, but really isn't (happened to me). -Dave
  22. Find the green test connectors under the hood, and connect them. Turn the key to on (not start). You should hear the fuel pump pulsing on/off. If not, that's (at least one) problem. You can try smacking it to make it work. -Dave
  23. Now I'm even more bummed I couldn't make it to the show this year FYI' date=' if you need a quick way to just resize pictures (without cropping them) install the Image Resizer here. Select a folder/group of pictures, right click-> resize, and choose the new size. http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/Downloads/powertoys/Xppowertoys.mspx -Dave
  24. Nope. As long as the drivers side belt is correct (which it often is), spark will be in the correct place. It's just the passenger side belt that makes it run rough. Easiest way to check is to take the covers off over the cams and see if the dots are aligned together (wrong), or 180* from each other (correct). -Dave
  25. Just read through it again, and it sounds like you just need to tighten the bolts to depress the springs. If the cam is turned so a lobe is pushing on the rocker, it won't sit down all the way (obviously), so you can either turn the cam, or just crank it down. -Dave
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