hooziewhatsit

are the lights staying on steady, or actually blinking? You sure you didn't flip the switch on top of the steering column?

If you put in the resistor and the light still doesn't go out, it's likely a blown transistor in the ECU. On my 88 GL, I've done everything I know to get the EGR code to go away. The only thing left is in the ECU. Still runs just fine though.

Weird My '72 pickup has a little pin that easily pushes in to allow the tumbler to come out. These have to have some trick to remove them. Guess I'm off to the junkyard with a drill

Working on a friends car, and the key got stuck when the tumbler locked up I know the trick about using a drill to notch the tamper proof bolts and remove the entire lock cylinder, but isn't there a way to remove just the lock portion? My cordless drill sucks, and probably won't notch the ones at the junkyard before the batteries die :-\ Here's a picture of another locked up cylinder I had lying around. There is another identical pin on the other side. I had to use a hammer and punch and really beat on it to get the pins far enough in for it to slide out. I went to the junkyard today and figured with the key in the right position, those pins would just push in and it would slide right out. I was wrong Sooo.... should those pins push in easily to remove the tumbler, or do I need to go medieval on it?

Yep, crescent wrench + long 10mm for the fan. I always thread some nylon rope into one of the cylinders to loosen/tighten the crank pulley. Then I know I got a good bite on it.

Might as well throw in my two bits, as I found this thread looking for Mizpahs website address My 91 Loyale had TOD @ ~165k miles that would come and go. I first replaced the cam o-rings and resealed the oil pump. Didn't work. Next got a new oil pump and seals, didn't work. Finally got rebuilt lifters from Mizpah, resealed everything again, and it's been quiet since (almost 2 years to the day! ha!) My '88 wagon with 215k miles is still quiet, and I think all I've done are regular oil changes. I just checked, and I don't think I've ever resealed anything on that engine. Today I tore apart an engine from an 86 (I think it had a jap engine installed at some point) due to a blown headgasket. The oil pump gasket was still good (I think it replaced it a while ago). The cam o-rings were hilarious. Both broken in one place, sucked in, and hard. They looked like hearts This car had the loudest TOD I've ever heard. All ticking, all the time. On one of the lifters I could move the plunger a little. I put two others in a vice and had to reef on it pretty hard to get them to move and seep out milkshake oil :barf:. Said screw it, and came here looking for Mizpahs address. I agree that maintenance is a big part of it, and at some point, in my experience, the only real solution is new/rebuilt lifters, in conjunction with new seals in the rest of the system.

And the culprit is... the Idle Air Control solenoid. After testing (and adjusting) the TPS, I manually jumped 12v to the IAC, and didn't hear it click until I tapped it with a screwdriver Now it'll start up just fine, but it likes to stick open and hold the idle at 2200 (again, until I tap it and it'll start working and drop the idle like it should). I figure it was sticking closed when I tried to start it, so it wouldn't start unless I held the throttle barely open (leading me to check the TPS). I have another one in the shed somewhere I'll replace it with. But otherwise, I think this problem is solved.

Finally got some more time to do some testing. This morning I cycled the key a few times to pressurize the fuel system. Didn't make a difference. It'll crank and won't start. It will only start once I floor it (leaky injector maybe?). After it warmed up it started doing the bouncing idle thing from 1100-1500rpms, even though I did clean out the IAC valve. When it's running, if I manually move the EGR diaphragm it sputters and tries to die, so I think it's still sealing. I did completely remove and plug the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid. Maybe I just need to suck it up and swap in the EJ22 I have

My 88GL EA82/EFI has been acting up recently The first time I start it in a while it'll usually fire once then die immediately, then I need to play with the throttle to get it started. Afterwards it'll idle around 500rpms for a while, but once warm is just fine. A year+ ago I cut out the connector to the CTS and spliced the sensor directly into the harness. Those splices appear to still be fine. Yesterday/today I unplugged the engine harness and measured the resistance of the sensor at ~4.2kOhm @ ~55*F. This matches another spare sensor I had lying around, and is pretty close to the numbers I found in the FSM. I have yet to trace the wire all the way back to the ECU . I've also taken the IAC off and soaked the valve part in some chem dip and otherwise got it clean. So far my suspected culprit (the CTS) appears to be fine. Is there anything else that could cause this? Thanks, -Dave

The green ones under the hood are what you want to connect to read the codes. The AC shouldn't have anything to do with the surging. To remove the IAC, I've had luck breaking the bolts loose with vice grips. It's most likely sticking and causing your problem. Then clean it out and put it back on.

Why not clean up the old ones and put them back in? Fill with cleaner, hit it with the air compressor and put power to it to open it. Repeat a few times for each one. I saw someone who made a mini-fuel rail he filled with cleaner, put compressed air into, and clicked the injector on/off. Seems like it should've worked pretty well.

Now how did you find those at 1stsubaru Called the dealer, he shows the hub synchro, and 3 baulk rings for the main shaft as out of stock and discontinued. Transmission shop would have to 'inspect it' and rebuild it themselves, at the tune of $600-1400. This page (click Synchro assy, 1/2 on the right) at least claims to list it, I think. http://mmerlinn.com/catalog/bratty_one/sb_lxe/sblxe_f.htm#default However, I think I can still get the 1-2 baulk ring (32604AA013) from the dealer. It looks like I need two, so since they're fairly cheap so I'll grab them and see what I can frankenstein together this summer. Thanks for the numbers, -Dave

oops, meant to say I have the part numbers for the shift forks, shims, etc. Everything but the synchros. And I can't seem to find anything online about them either I did find the part numbers for synchros for a WRX 5speed though

I figured they would cost $Texas. If they're relatively cheap though :cool: I checked the usual places (rockauto, 1stsubaruparts) but haven't seen them listed? Rockauto has the bearings and seals though. My FSM has part #s for everything but, lol. I'm sure the dealership would be just as helpful Do you happen to have part numbers or somewhere online that has them? Thanks, -Dave

Hey all, The D/R in my 88 GL grinds pretty good going into 1st 2nd and 3rd, especially when cold. When warm it's a lot better, but still there. I ran Redline 75w90NS for a while (20k miles), which helped a little. Did two ATF flushes; IIRC shifted pretty well with just the ATF. Then tried the tranny cocktail for 4k miles. Still ground a bit. Currently have some Valvoline Semi-Synthetic 75w90 in it (which works great in my 91 S/R btw). I have a 5spd S/R laying around, that AFAIK, shifted fine when it was pulled. Is there any technical reason keeping me from transferring the synchros from that tranny to mine? Looks like the only difference is the D/R part on the input shaft. I don't suppose I'd get lucky and have the entire output shaft/1st&2nd transfer as a whole? The junkyard here will want $200+ for a transmission, and it will still be a crap shoot This summer I hope to get the EJ22 in the car, so I'd make the changes then. In the meantime I can still take apart the S/R and see what I have (and it's always fun taking stuff apart ).

I tore some trim off a car at the junkyard researching this same thing. That particular car had the hole in the pillar, but no captive nut. Then the problem just becomes finding a way to get a nut back there to bolt to.

I concur. My BILs car had that same problem. I won't say how long it took me to find When it doesn't start, connect the green test connectors, turn the key to On, then listen for the pump. Then tap it if needed to see if it comes on.

I have about 10k miles on a set. Still no ticking I had put in a new pump and cam case o-rings a while before that, but the ticking remained. So, then I put the new lifters in.

Correct. T one side of the resistor into the wire going to the sensor, and put the other end of the resistor to ground. If you took the condensor out, I won't really need pictures. I was hoping you found a way to keep it all there. The west side of Oregon may not need AC, but living on the East side it would be nicer with it

You should read 12v between the tabs on either side of the window. If you don't get anything there, find a good ground and measure both tabs again. If not, pull the cover and make sure you don't have a wire hanging loose that goes to one of the tabs. I've had that happen before.

Is there any chance you can get pictures of what you did for the fans? Also, did you get the AC working?

Pretty much. Would just need to know what voltage the dash runs on (the output from the stock VR), then it would be easy to make a small box to provide power to the dash.

years ago when I last had a shop change my oil, then also checked the rear diff fluid. They had a card with a spot for each location, and a dab of oil from each so I could see the color. Pretty slick really. If you do have a shop change it, make sure to tell them to loosen the filler FIRST, then drain it. Heard a horror story or two about that.

Most any parts stores should have a pump you can put in the bottle, like a liquid hand soap dispenser on steroids.

Hey, I resemble that remark I have a gravel driveway, slightly off level, with a big piece of carpet in it. The carpet actually helps a lot, lol. Also have an 8'x8' shed that is currently packed.