hooziewhatsit

In my future garage I plan to run heating loops in the cement before it's poured. Then you can either use a hot water heater/boiler to heat the water and then the shop, or, you can build a solar thermal collector, and have essentially free heat (if you're in a place that gets any sun during the winter)

Before you pull the old sheath out, take a good look at how it's routed though the engine bay, and make sure you follow the same path. Otherwise, once it's back together, the pedal will feel nasty until you tighten the bolt at the clutch fork. Then the pedal will come up nicely. Adjust until you have ~1/2" of free play in the pedal, then tighten the lock nut. You may need to adjust the hill holder as well (at least this is a good time to check it out and adjust as needed).

The engine side of that looks fine to me. Dirty, but ok. If the cable is broken, you should be able to grab the engine side of the cable and pull it all the way out. If it doesn't come out, it's not broken. If the cable is one piece, it makes me wonder if the clutch fork broke In the diagram, #s 16, 17, & 18 are on the clutch/clutch pedal. The Red box is the brake pedal.

And if the wiring checks out, then it's likely a blown transistor in the ECU that controls the solenoid. I've opened my ECU and traced it that far. Haven't been motivated enough to actually replace the bad transistor yet

Thanks GD. Found this thread with a part number while doing a google search Power steering pump repair kit Subaru # 34419AA150 list $35 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117494#post970279 I've also found a reference to 6202-2RS used on the earlier Legacy pumps. I guess I'll compare that one at Napa to the one in the pump and see if they're the same.

While I have the intake off to replace a leaking intake gasket, I noticed that 90% of the mess on the top of the engine probably came from the power steering pump. Since that's the only oil I have to top off regularly, that's probably where it came from. Anyone take one of these apart to reseal it? Is it possible, or is the only option a new/rebuilt pump? The lack of easily find-able seal kits kinda points me towards replacing the pump Edit: looking at pictures online, it looks like the reservoir comes off pretty easily, and that may be where most of the mess is coming from.

I've traced my persistent EGR code (34) to a blown transistor in the ECU that switches it on. I'm not picky enough to open it up and replace it.

'88 GL, 220k miles. I was noticing towards the end of my last oil change interval that the oil pressure gauge was spending a lot of time at the top of the scale. Went ahead and changed the oil & filter (10w40, Napa gold filter), and now, unless I'm at idle, the gauge is still pegged at 85psi. At idle the pressure will come down to ~45psi, but then if I go to 1500 rpms, the pressure goes back to 85 psi. Also, my mileage has gone to ~20 on the highway Soo.. any thing in particular I should check first? I'm tempted to let it idle with 4 quarts of ATF to clean everything out. If it dies, I'll just have to throw the EJ22 in Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. The car is now 5 hours away, but I'll call my dad and let him know where to find the suspect connector.

My dads '92 legacy wagon has no high beams. He has: -Replaced harness going to each bulb, as the old ones were burned pretty badly -Replaced both bulbs, including having the parts store guy bring a new one out, plug it in, and see that highs don't work. I can ohm each bulb out and see that both filaments are good. -Replaced both relays (and I can hear both click on/off) -Replaced the turn signal/light stalk in the column -ohm'ed out the fuses under the hood, and they are both good The high beam indicator on the dash does come on when it's supposed to. Low beams work fine, but turn off when pulling or pushing on the light stalk. The odds are pretty low that the light switch he pulled from the junkyard had the same exact problem as his. Looking at the diagram here: http://main.experiencetherave.com/su..._diag_(US).zip if there is a break in the Red wire at connector F44 (right side of page), I believe that would prevent the highs from getting a ground, while allowing the dash high beam light and the low beams to work. Does anybody know where this connector is? Some other posts referenced a 'dimmer switch'. Does this have anything to do with the headlights, and is it separate from the switches in the column? Any other ideas? His car has 365k miles on it, and this is turning into quite the annoying problem.

Here ya go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-94-1-8-SUBARU-TURBO-NON-TURBO-TIMING-BELT-KIT-EA82-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1988Q7cMakeQ3aSubaruQQhashZitem255fd731a0QQitemZ160521728416QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2002wt_939 Since I found that kit, I replace all the idlers when I do the belts. Then I throw the old ones in the back so I have a spare to at least get home.

Another vote for the ball joints. My wifes '91 loyale was doing the same thing. When I pulled the BJs out, I could flop it around just by shaking it

Let us know what you attempted, and what the outcome was

That's the EGR pipe. I highly doubt you're loosing coolant there More likely is one (or both) of the tiny coolant hoses on the intake. One is directly behind the throttle body and goes down into another metal coolant line. This one is 3/8". The other goes from the thermostat housing, under all the wires in front of the intake, and into the block. This one is 1/4".

If I had to make this work, and I still had the EA82 flywheel lying around... I'd measure the distance around the EA82 flywheel from the 0* TDC to the 3 |||s for installing the belts. Then in the car, I'd tape a properly measured & marked string, taking the 6* difference into account, and tape it to the TDC mark, and rotate the engine allowing the string to follow the flywheel. May have to tape it every few inches to keep it on the flywheel. Once you get to the mark on the string that's where your three marks go (the |||). Mark that well, and proceed with the belt install.

I believe it was in '87, the distributor shaft was keyed with a flat side. If you can find a keyed rotor, it'll never happen again You can swap the top of the distributor shaft pretty easily. Take the rotor off and look down the shaft and there'll be a philips screw. Then you just have to take the plate off the top of the distributor and swap it out. Before I did that I tapped the screw hole to a big size since mine was getting wallowed out.

If you can feel ANY side to side movement, it's bad :-\ There's a place in Portland that (used to?) rebuild them. Can't think of their name at the moment though.

The piston is at TDC twice in a cycle; at peak compression (where you want the spark), and after the exhaust stroke (where you don't want the spark). If the disty is in backwards, you'll get spark after the exhaust stroke. To fix it, make sure the pass. cam dot lines up like I mentioned above, then re-install the distributor so it points to #1 (I'm guessing you'll find it pointing at #2). I wouldn't troubleshoot anything else until you've verified this.

The passenger cam dot should be pointing at 10:30 (45* CCW from straight up) when you install the distributor pointing at #1. I'd wager that you got the disty in 180* out. Happens to everyone at some point. (and by 'turned it' above, you mean you cranked it over one turn between each of the belts, right?)

If that happens, you can usually throw it into 4wd and continue on your trip (just until you fix it of course). When I bought a car for my BIL, I got it cheap since it had a stripped hub. The guy thought I was going to have to flatbed it away. He looked surprised when I just drove off in it

I had the same thing happen on an EA82. Had already repaired one stripped thread, then on the last tightening sequence another one pulled out Heli-coiled it (again), used the same head gasket, and the car is running fine. YMMV

He's currently in San Antonio, and in ~5 weeks will be going to New Mexico for a while. I sent him this thread, and he sent this reply:

Thanks for the replies. So what's the failure mode for this? Eventually he just won't have 4th anymore, but the rest will work? Catastrophic as the entire transmission eats itself and he's dead in the water? He's currently in Texas, and I'm not entirely sure that it would make it back to Oregon where I could work on it. Or if he even wants to go through the trouble of fixing it :-\

My brother has an '82 EA81 wagon with a manual 4 speed in it. He was telling me tonight that when he shifts into 4th, he has to hold the shifter back real hard as he lets the clutch out, otherwise it'll pop out of gear and grind a lot It sounds like once it's in gear it'll be just fine until he needs to shift again, but it's been getting progressively worse. Anybody hear of, or have a cause/solution for this? He lives in a small apartment off base, so he can't drain it and check for chunks in the fluid. Thanks :beer:

With the two wire thermo-switch, if they're like the one on my 88 GL, unplug it from the thermoswitch and stick a paper clip in the plug to short the wires together, turn the key on, and the fan should turn on. Basically so you're bypassing the thermoswitch.